Her nickname is Meatloaf

Her nickname is Meatloaf

Sophie is a 13-year old cat. She wasn't always fat, but she wasn't thin for very long. She's been fat for 11 years. She tips the scale at about 23 pounds. She doesn't get around too well. I try to exercise her, but she is not interested. She just wants to be pet and loved.

The thing is, my husband and I have two other cats. I honestly believe Sophie eats much less than them. But they run around more. Our other cat is big, but not fat and the other one is normal weight.

So I ask you, how can I make her exercise? They only go outside on our patio or right around our house with us out there. She doesn't even move when a neighbor's dog runs in the yard. She just hisses and turns her back to the dog.

I've tried diet food. I measure the food (although I think my husband sneaks in extra). She's big. The first thing people say when they see her is "That is the fattest cat I have ever seen." Poor Sophie! We still love her!

She also needs brushed a lot more and I have to give her a bath every few months because she has trouble getting everywhere with that belly in the way. She hates it, but you can tell she always feels good after.

Source: ireport.cnn.com

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to COME, that’s his opportunity to run to the person he loves most. Therefore, the COME command is the most positive lesson your dog can learn. For this reason, we do not give corrections while teaching. Corrections are a part of enforcement, but in the initial stages of training, this command should be entirely positive and fun for your dog. That’s why you should not proceed with the formal COME command training until the dog associates COME with the games on the preceding page. c Put your dog in a SIT/STAY. Move 6-10 feet away, and face the dog. c With the leash in your hand, give the command “ __________, COME!" (command tone) Use your right hand to give him the hand signal: extend your arm straight out, palm facing the ground. Then, bend your arm sharply inward, palm facing the chest. c Holding the leash taut, guide the dog straight toward you, while simultaneously coaxing him with praise. Use pressure on the leash to encourage your dog to move quickly, but DON’T drag him. c As soon as your dog reaches you, give the command, "_________, SIT". As your right hand lifts his chin, simultaneously use your left hand to push his hips into a SIT. Remember to give your dog lots of praise! We recommend lifting his head, and rubbing under his chin while praising. This encourages excellent canine posture! Note: As you teach your dog the COME command, it’s very important that you never use the word “come” without executing the command. If he’s not on a leash, the command cannot be properly enforced. Your trainer will suggest alternate ways to call your dog during this very crucial training period. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season,

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season, when you are visiting your friends and family, you may be faced with the opportunity to meet a dog that you do not know. Here are some tips to help you have a healthy and happy experience by understanding the appropriate way to approach a new dog: Always ask an owner for permission to touch their dog prior to petting. Ask if the dog is friendly. Some dogs are not welcoming to guests. Some owners do not like their dog to interact with guests. You do not want to risk your personal safety or reward them for a behavior their owner dislikes. Watch a dog's body language. If their hair stands up, they stop moving or wagging their tail, they hold their breath, they crouch down to the ground, or they begin barking or lunging, simply do not touch them. They may be nervous and are better left alone. Never run up to a stray dog and pet them. You do not know how this dog responds to people, if the dog is injured, or if the dog is otherwise aggressive. It is best to let the dog come to you, if you decide to interact at all. Let them hear and smell you prior to interacting with them directly. Stand still and put your hand out for the dog to smell. Let them get comfortable with your scents and sounds prior to actual touching. Do not approach the dog face-to-face. Rather, position yourself beside the dog. A face-to-face meeting can become a threat to a dog that you may not mean to make. Do not touch the dog if you are nervous. The dog will know and it will make them nervous as well. There is no reason to pet a dog if you do not feel comfortable. Do not pet a dog on the head when you first meet them. A shoulder or back petting session is more appropriate. Many dogs get nervous and/or upset when they are pet on top of their heads, or when people reach over their heads to pet them. Do not stare a dog in the eye. While this is a show of confidence in the USA, it is a show of confrontation in the canine world. Gently look at the dogs ears, face, or chest, but try to avoid direct eye contact. If you become uncomfortable or are being attacked by a dog you have just met NEVER turn your back and run away. The dog will chase you. It will think you are playing a game or have become a prey animal. Instead, remain calm, stand still until the dog goes away, and/or guard your body with any personal items (purse, umbrella, briefcase, etc.) that you have with you. Do not flail your arms, scream, throw personal items, or wave your fingers at a dog. Excitement and nervousness begets excitement and nervousness. Loose and flailing items are more easily grabbed by a dog. Close your fists and hold your arms steady at your side or across your body to keep yourself in a safer situation. Pet the dog gently, slowly, with a flat hand, in one direction. When you do pet a dog you have not met before, remember to speak slowly and quietly in sweet tones. Watch your children and be sure to show them the appropriate ways to meet a dog. Remember, even if an owner says that a dog is friendly, you are a stranger to them. Earn their trust by respecting their space. This is especially true of puppies for whom everything is new, loud, and can become overwhelming.
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FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of

FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of the holiday and very few other days of the year. They are big, beautiful, exciting, and loud. Remember, for your dog who has hearing ten times more sensitive than we do, the loud part can catch your dog unaware, disorient them, and create anxiety. In fact, often times fight or flight instincts kick in and dogs shelters will be inundated with dogs on the days following fireworks displays. While some dogs have little or no reaction, for others, fireworks can cause serious disturbances that can be emotionally scarring for them. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which one any individual dog is or how any event may affect your dog. Here are some guidelines to consider prior to the festivities: Bringing Your Dog With You May we suggest you reconsider bringing your dog with you on your fourth adventures? These displays are not made for dogs. Often the aerial display is accompanied by sparklers and amateur displays which are lower and less predictable. Flashes of light, loud explosions, and crowds make for a confused and anxious dog with nowhere to go. Further, do not leave your dog in your car while you enjoy the show. This only reduces the "trapped" feeling to the confines of your vehicle which can result in destruction, soiling, and injury from exertion of anxious energies. Remember, a scared dog in a crowd is a danger to both itself and the people around it. Leashes and collars are not infallible. Leaving Your Dog Behind If you leave your dog at home and fireworks are being displayed nearby, make sure that they are in a place that is indoors where they have the least likelihood of causing damage to your home or themselves. Crates are strongly recommended if your dog has crating experience. Turn on, and up, your radio or television to mask the sound of the fireworks. Close your blinds or curtains to mask the flashing lights. Take away your dog's favorite toy a day or two before the festivities, and return it in time for the event. This way, they can be distracted by something you know that will give them happiness. In Either case Regardless of your canine's location, some basic steps should be taken to ensure their safety. Make sure that their tags are up to date, including one with your contact information, in the event that their fight or flight instinct gives them wings. To be doubly sure, make sure your dog is micro chipped and that that information is also correct in the event of a collar failure. Let your dog do its business prior to time for the fireworks displays. Play with them more than usual to ensure that they are tired and therefore less likely to have the energy to expend with nervousness. If your dog does react negatively to the fireworks, remember not to coddle them. If you coddle or hold them during this time, it will feel exactly the same as when you praise them. In other words, you'll be telling them: "Good job being nervous! That's what you should be doing! Keep it up!". In contrast, light massage style petting, if your dog will let you, when practiced without pity or nervousness can help calm both of you.
taekwondo charlotte, taekwondo wesley chapel

Monica Singh
Sangrock Tae Kwon Do

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching stand/stay your dog should have a complete understanding of sit/stay. * Begin with your dog in a sit/stay on your left side facing in the same direction you are. * Using your right hand reach across your body grasping the leash about 6” from your dog collar. * Step back and place your left hand (palm toward yourself) on the deep inside of your right thigh. * Then as you give the command “stand” pull forward with your right hand while using your left hand to lift the dogs hind quarter into the air. * Once your dog reaches the standing position give the command to “stay”, then step in front of your dog. * Keep in mind, most dogs will attempt to sit. If this should happen, move quickly, stepping forward with your left leg (putting your hand back inside your thigh), then lightly snap the leash toward you as you lift your dogs hind quarters into the the stand position, and say “NO !!” (correction tone) then say “stand”. (light command tone). * Continue to follow the above steps for seven full days before expecting the dog to stand on his own. * Consult your training instructor for the next steps. TRAINING GOAL:_________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647 Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and

Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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SIT/STAY COMMAND Begin with your dog on your

SIT/STAY COMMAND Begin with your dog on your left side, facing the same direction you are. Reach across your body with your right hand; grasp the leash in your right hand, holding it about 1 inch above the clasp. With your left hand grasp your dog�s hips gently. Using your left hand, rotate your dogs hips back, then down, into the sitting position, as you say �_________________ sit.� (Command Tone) Once your dog is in the sitting position, give the command �STAY�, as you show him/her the stay hand signal with a SNAP. (Palm of right hand) As you turn and face your dog, moving with your right foot first, begin to back away from him with a slack leash as you praise him: �Goooood boy!� When your dog gets up (and he will!) move quickly and SNAP the leash straight over his head as you say �NO!� (correction tone). Follow this ediately with �STAY�, (command tone) using the hand signal. Praise your dog both physically and verbally, while he/she remains in SIT/STAY. Your goal is to be able to circle your dog while he/she STAYS. Gently pull your dog toward you as you say �YOU�RE THROUGH!� (praise tone). Remember it is important to maintain patience and control; it is necessary for your dog to make mistakes so he can learn not to make them! TRAINING GOAL:______________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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HEEL COMMAND c Begin with your dog in

HEEL COMMAND c Begin with your dog in a SIT/STAY on your left side, both of you facing forward. Step forward with your left foot, as you say “_________, HEEL.” (command tone) Patting your left hip while praising will encourage your dog to remain at your side. c Continue walking at a moderate pace. As your dog moves out of the HEEL position, use a quick SNAP AND RELEASE in the opposite direction, as you say “NO!” (correction tone) Repeat the HEEL command (command tone) as you encourage your dog with praise. c Make it a challenge for your dog to stay by your side by changing directions rapidly without warning, and by changing your speed from very slow to a brisk walk. c When practicing the HEEL command, always begin and end with your dog in a SIT/STAY position at your left side. . c The HEEL command is one of the most difficult for your dog to master. For this reason, it is crucial that you practice every day. However, limit your practice sessions to 2 minute spurts for the first week, gradually increasing the time to 8-10 minutes. Here’s a tip for practice: try point-to-point heeling. Pick an object, like a mailbox or fire hydrant. Walk your dog in HEEL directly toward that object. Then turn about-face, and repeat the procedure with a different object. This will help you teach him to move forward in a straight line, without veering or pulling. As always, remember to praise your dog -- and make it fun! TRAINING GOAL:________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
christopher epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc

chris epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc

OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring,

OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring, we look forward to warmer weather and more time outside. For dog owners, many feel that this is a time that the dog can experience more freedom. If done correctly, this can be a great experience. If not done correctly, mischief and mayhem can ensue. Here are some helpful hints to make your spring less stressful: Boredom can lead to big problems. If you leave your dog outside without helping them to release their physical and mental energies beforehand, you may find that they will become creative. Their projects can range from a small hole to a knocking over your prized barbeque to tearing down or redecorating your deck and lawn furniture. Alone time outside does not replace walking and heeling practice. It is not an automatic relief of stored up energy, at least not in a consistently positive manner. A nap underneath a tree outside will only result when the dog is exhausted. Make sure to not put your dog in a position to express their creative energies in a way that would not make you proud. A watched dog is a better dog. Do not leave your dog in your yard unsupervised, especially if you expect them to behave. If regularly attended, the dog will understand that outside is just like inside: you are the leader and they need to listen accordingly. New sights, new sounds, looser dirt, small animals beginning their springtime frolic, and increased daily sunlight are all invitations for a grand canine adventure. If you would rather your dog not partake in these activities, you need to be consistent with your training. Remember, a long line (30 feet) can give your dog an increased area to play while remaining able to be consistent with your corrections. Even if your dog is reliably off leash trained, it may take a couple of days to remind them how to behave in their changed environment. Without a leash, this becomes much more difficult. Do not use a remote collar without proper training. Canine-proof your yard as much as possible. Too much time outdoors unattended can result in housebreaking issues. If a dog never has to ask to go outside, then it never will. Designate one area of the yard for bathroom activities, and make sure that they have enough time indoors to remember to hold it when they are not in their "rest" area. Dogs are creatures of habit. Do not assume that your dog will be happy simply because it is outside. Banishing them to the great outdoors while you are away can create stress. Many dogs would be happier to remain surrounded by the familiar sights and sounds indoors that can remind them of their place in your home especially if you have already proofed your dog for inside unattended time. If they are used to being in a crate, it is most likely relaxing for them to remain in their routine.
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Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health - Side Affects of Improper Nutrition Dog Training Nutrition is the foundation for optimal health for pets as well as people. Pet food should be wholesome and nourishing. In order to be sure your pet is getting the proper nutrition, read the labels and check the ingredients. It is also very important to chose a pet food that uses high quality, "human grade" ingredients. This assures that the ingredients on the label are what is truly in the food. Dog food companies such as Wellness, Natura (makers of California Natural, Evo, Innova), and Nature's Variety all use these type ingredients as well as do continuous quality control during manufacturing. Some of the maladies that can result from improper nutrition are itchy red skin, dandruff, oily coat, runny eyes, chewing on paws, and red, sore ears. Imagine eating the same diet day after day for your entire life ... not very appetizing is it? Now, imagine that same diet lacking the vitamins and minerals needed for strong healthy bodies. Since we need good nutrition to stay healthy, it would not take long to become weak and sickly. As unhealthy as this sounds, this is what most of our pets experience their entire lives. As a result they are getting sicker and sicker. Substandard Ingredients in Commercial Dog Food Keep in mind that any ingredients that are not considered "human grade" are not subject to any FDA or other screening. Pet food has no federal inspection of ingredients. This means the ingredient list on most commercial dog foods is not truly accurate. Meat by-products: The "by-products" from the meat, but not including meat: lungs, spleen, kidneys, brains, liver, blood, bone, intestines, none of which are fit for human consumption. Meat meal: Meat meal can consist of just about any conceivable meat source. Even destroyed dogs and cats are rendered into meat meal for several name-brand animal foods. Beet Pulp: Beet pulp is the dried residue from the sugar beet. It is a source of sugar and fiber. However, it can seriously bind a dog's digestive tract. BHT, BHA: Chemical preservatives such as BHT and BHA have caused many concerns when tested on laboratory animals. Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative used to prevent spoilage in dog foods. It is a 1950's Monsanto product manufactured and sold as a chemical for making rubber! It is listed as a pesticide by the U.S. Department of agriculture. Unnecessary additions to dog food or treats: Corn: Corn, used as a cheap filler and protein source. Corn can cause common allergies such as skin disorders, increased chewing on paws or ear infections. Corn gluten meal: Corn gluten meal is by by-product after the manufacture of corn syrup or starch. Wheat or Wheat Gluten: Used as a cheap filler and protein source. Also a high allergen for skin disorders, and ear infections.
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Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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