Clicker Training 101 What is a clicker? A

Clicker Training 101 What is a clicker? A time marker device. That marks a behavior and promises a reward. Any behavior clicked and rewarded enough with increase in frequency. Capturing Behavior - This is were a dog does a behavior induced or on his own and the trainer/owner clicks when the behavior occurs and then rewards the dog with a treat. examples would be barking, scatching, stretching, Shaping Behavior - This is were the trainer take the desired goal and breaks it in to small approamations then clicks and rewards the small appromations and slowly requires the dog to move from step to the next as you gear towards the goal. Example: Teaching adog to toucha target stick with thier nose. First the dog must look at the stick...click and treat then the dog must look and turn his head in the direction fo the stick...click and treat, then the dog must look turn his head and step towards the treat...
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Alpha Lifts - This is a great way

Alpha Lifts - This is a great way to start getting puppy to trust and give in to the owners authority. This is not as dominate as an alpha rollover yet it is a smaller version of the concept of the dog losing some control over there freedom. The owner would stand over their dog facing the same direction of the dog. With one leg on each side of the dog. Then using both hands the owner reaches under the dogs chest and lifts the dogs front legs off the ground. Allowing the dogs front legs to very lightly touch the ground. This will tempt the dog to try and walk away, however they can not and learn to trust in the fact that the owner will release them once they no longer try to move. Then the owner can do the same thing with all four feet off the ground, same As above. This is a great exercise for owners to use to gain trust and slight dominance over their dogs. Mark Thompson
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FRISBEE BASICS - Dog Training Watching a dog

FRISBEE BASICS - Dog Training Watching a dog launch through the air and catch a frisbee is a beautiful thing, but they don't start out at that point. Here are a few tips to get Your dog started playing a fun game of catch. Start off by sliding the Frisbee back and forth on the ground in front. Let your dog take it out of your hand. Always keep it fun and use lots of praise! Throw the disc on the ground, rolling it like a wheel. This will allow the dog to get used to chasing it without a bad experience of possibly getting hit by a flying disc. When your dog is interested in playing with the Frisbee, toss it and let them chase. Keep the tosses short so the Frisbee stays clearly visible as an attractive object to retrieve. Be careful not to throw the Frisbee directly at your dog. You do not want to make them afraid. Stand about three feet in front of your dog, gently toss the Frisbee in the air and say "Catch." If your dog catches it, give them lots of praise. If it is not caught, pick it up off the ground yourself. The catch should be the reward. When your dog accomplishes this, stand to the side of your dog, so they learn to go get it. Once your dog is comfortable catching short throws, make your tosses longer. Attach a long leash, so you can gently guide your dog back to you. Do not push the dog too hard. If your dog loses interest, then quit for now and start when you are both fresh. Put the discs away when you are not there. You dog should realize the disc is a special toy that is only available during your Frisbee tossing sessions. Supplements for Dogs? You take a Multi-Vitamin, but how about one for your dog? Just like people, dogs can have gaps in their nutrition as well. These holes in the dog's nutrition can be due to the organs, glands and tissues that may be compromised by disease, surgery, injury, etc. By increasing the amount of proper nutrition in your dog's diet, you can effectively help him with regards to faster healing times, tissue regeneration, and improved return in overall function. The goal of nutritional support is to provide complete nutrition to each cell, restoring normal metabolic function. Total Life Care not only addresses people nutrition, but they also carry a line of organic and whole food supplements especially formulated for dogs. These formulations range from a canine whole body support to more specific support for the dog's skin, liver, heart, digestion, immune system, kidneys, or thyroid. Total Life Care is offering a special discount for the Dog Training in Your Home clients. Bring in this newsletter for 10% off of any supplement products we carry. For more information about giving your dog a better quality of life in the form of proper nutrition, contact Total Life Care at 843.402.0310 843.402.0310 or at www.TLCCharleston.com.




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Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
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Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive,

Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive, we begin to start preparing special holiday treats. Turkeys, cookies, candies? the list goes on. But what if you are not the only one in the house checking out the plates? Is your dog taking food from your counters, or even right off your plate? This issue is so common that it has a name: "Counter-Surfing". To resolve this issue, you have three choices: punishment, extinction, and alternatives. Punishment is not really a choice in this case. Punish too much and the dog will be scared to go anywhere near food. Punish too little or the wrong way and you will simply teach the dog not to "surf" with you around. Turn away for a second though and all bets are off. Punishment cannot be consistent if you are not around to see the behavior, so this just won't work. While you are frustrated, punishment may just be worth the reward that your dog receives by stealing your tasty food. Extinction is the process by which a behavior disappears due to the removal of its stimulus. In other words: no food, no surfing. Surfing is a behavior that is a conditioned response. Every time the dog steals food, they are rewarded. If you got a dollar every time you touched a doorknob in your home, you would probably touch that doorknob a lot. If that reward was removed, you would most likely eventually reduce the number of times you touched the knob to a more normal level or extinguish that behavior all together. Same with the dog's thievery. You must remove the food reward from the situation by eliminating all unattended food sources. There can be no plates left within reach, no food left on counters, and no crumbs left anywhere. Storage containers, high shelving, and immediate cleaning is required for this process to work. Even dirty dishes can be a source of food reward if left around where a dog can find them. If and when this is not possible, the dog must be removed from the environment where the food is located, in order to prevent accidental reinforcement of stealing behaviors. Alternative therapy is the replacement of a negative behavior with a more positive one. In this case, the PLACE command can be used to have your dog remain in a fixed location that is away from the food. Make sure to practice often, to reward good behavior with verbal praise and petting, and to have a leash on your dog for reinforcement during practice periods. Begin with short durations and then build up to the longer ones. Treat the dog on place so that the dog understands that if he or she remains in "place" the rewards come to them! If they leave, they get nothing at all. Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you. Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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HEEL COMMAND c Begin with your dog in

HEEL COMMAND c Begin with your dog in a SIT/STAY on your left side, both of you facing forward. Step forward with your left foot, as you say “_________, HEEL.” (command tone) Patting your left hip while praising will encourage your dog to remain at your side. c Continue walking at a moderate pace. As your dog moves out of the HEEL position, use a quick SNAP AND RELEASE in the opposite direction, as you say “NO!” (correction tone) Repeat the HEEL command (command tone) as you encourage your dog with praise. c Make it a challenge for your dog to stay by your side by changing directions rapidly without warning, and by changing your speed from very slow to a brisk walk. c When practicing the HEEL command, always begin and end with your dog in a SIT/STAY position at your left side. . c The HEEL command is one of the most difficult for your dog to master. For this reason, it is crucial that you practice every day. However, limit your practice sessions to 2 minute spurts for the first week, gradually increasing the time to 8-10 minutes. Here’s a tip for practice: try point-to-point heeling. Pick an object, like a mailbox or fire hydrant. Walk your dog in HEEL directly toward that object. Then turn about-face, and repeat the procedure with a different object. This will help you teach him to move forward in a straight line, without veering or pulling. As always, remember to praise your dog -- and make it fun! TRAINING GOAL:________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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MANAGING THE MUD So you are ready to

MANAGING THE MUD So you are ready to go back inside, but you aren't ready to mop the floors? What do you do if your dog has managed to get covered in mud? Even if it is just the paws, tracking mud into the house can make for a major cleaning project. Here is how to manage the mud tracking: Get doormats for each doorway to the outside. Make sure they look similar to one another. These mats will serve as a visual barrier to entry for your dog that, with your help and training, can show the dog just where to wait before coming inside. Pair each doormat with a towel for wiping down paws. Practice makes perfect. Make sure to gear up your daily practice of obedience training so that you can train your dog to apply their knowledge to the new season's activities. Sit or Stand Stay is the perfect command to replace the wiggle worm behaviors commonly associated with paw cleaning. Remember, consistency and repetitions create habits in both humans and canines alike. Make your trips outside an adventure within limits that are clear to the dog. Show them what you do and do not want them to do over and over again before expecting them to understand and do it on their own. A few weeks of chaperoning may be a lot of work, but it will pay off in years of trustworthiness and positive behavior in your dog. While we cannot help you teach your dog to mop the floors themselves, we are here if you have any questions on how to curb spring fever.
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Mark Thompson started Dog Training In Your Home

Mark Thompson started Dog Training In Your Home in 1989. Mark and Leslie have now opened a Doggie Daycare and Boarding kennel. Offer large play areas and professional Boarding for your dog and Cats. Please see our website at Charlotte Better Dog Kennel We are experienced Charlotte NC dog trainers that will turn a "bad dog" into a well behaved house broken dog with our in home dog training courses. We can provide many services ranging from dog potty training to dog obedience training. We can start with puppy training in the Charlotte North Carolina area or adult dog training so that your dog can become a house broken dog. We train many breeds including but not limited to labradors, golden retriever, and german shepherds Offering dog training in the following areas: Charlotte, Matthews, Pineville, Ballentyne, Mint Hill, Indian Trail, Waxhaw. All of Mecklenburg and Union County. Dog Training Indian Trail Dog Training Pineville Dog Training Matthews Dog Training Waxhaw Dog Training Mint Hill Dog Training North-Charlotte Franchise mailing address: Dog Training In Your Home 4702 W. Hwy 74 Monroe, North Carolina 28110 Phone Number: (704) 573-3647 (704) 573-3647 Phone Number: (704) 296-0001 (704) 296-0001 Mark and Leslie Thompson are the owners of the Mecklenburg and Union County Franchise. They are personally involved in all aspects of business operations. Mark Thompson volunteers at Albemarle correctional facility as the training director for the new leash on life program. Rehabilitating Inmates and dogs, this program shows just one of the ways dogs give to the community
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OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring,

OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring, we look forward to warmer weather and more time outside. For dog owners, many feel that this is a time that the dog can experience more freedom. If done correctly, this can be a great experience. If not done correctly, mischief and mayhem can ensue. Here are some helpful hints to make your spring less stressful: Boredom can lead to big problems. If you leave your dog outside without helping them to release their physical and mental energies beforehand, you may find that they will become creative. Their projects can range from a small hole to a knocking over your prized barbeque to tearing down or redecorating your deck and lawn furniture. Alone time outside does not replace walking and heeling practice. It is not an automatic relief of stored up energy, at least not in a consistently positive manner. A nap underneath a tree outside will only result when the dog is exhausted. Make sure to not put your dog in a position to express their creative energies in a way that would not make you proud. A watched dog is a better dog. Do not leave your dog in your yard unsupervised, especially if you expect them to behave. If regularly attended, the dog will understand that outside is just like inside: you are the leader and they need to listen accordingly. New sights, new sounds, looser dirt, small animals beginning their springtime frolic, and increased daily sunlight are all invitations for a grand canine adventure. If you would rather your dog not partake in these activities, you need to be consistent with your training. Remember, a long line (30 feet) can give your dog an increased area to play while remaining able to be consistent with your corrections. Even if your dog is reliably off leash trained, it may take a couple of days to remind them how to behave in their changed environment. Without a leash, this becomes much more difficult. Do not use a remote collar without proper training. Canine-proof your yard as much as possible. Too much time outdoors unattended can result in housebreaking issues. If a dog never has to ask to go outside, then it never will. Designate one area of the yard for bathroom activities, and make sure that they have enough time indoors to remember to hold it when they are not in their "rest" area. Dogs are creatures of habit. Do not assume that your dog will be happy simply because it is outside. Banishing them to the great outdoors while you are away can create stress. Many dogs would be happier to remain surrounded by the familiar sights and sounds indoors that can remind them of their place in your home especially if you have already proofed your dog for inside unattended time. If they are used to being in a crate, it is most likely relaxing for them to remain in their routine.
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COME COMMAND Hide and Seek * Using two people-play hide and seek-having one person hold the dog in the house or yard allow him to watch one of you walk away and hide within voice range. Once in hiding place give the command "________, come" (command tone) followed by, "good boy, come on boy, good boy, come on boy, good boy come on boy(Praise Tone) , _________, come" (command tone). When he reaches you, place your left hand over his hind quarters - And your right hand under his chin then gently rotate him into the sitting position......*remember, NO CORRECTION! Round Robin * Have several people stand in a large circle-with the dog on leash in the middle. One person at a time squats placing one knee on the ground, pats their knee saying "___________, come" (praise tone) While everyone else turns their back ; continue around circle until everyone has had a turn. Formal Come * Put your dog in a sit/stay while facing him from 6-10 feet away. * With the leash in your hand give the command "__________, come" (command tone), as you use your right hand to give him a hand signal; reach straight out in front of you with right hand palm down, then draw your hand toward your chest palm in. * Use the leash to guide him straight to you while coaxing him with praise. * Once he gets to you give the command, "_________, sit", then lift gently on leash as you lightly touch his hips, once he sits-lots of praise. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647, Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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Life of illegal Barrow dog spared by court
Mrs Tina Hay, defending Ms Myers, told the court how the dog and instead made a Contingent Destruction Order. The order means its owner must get an exemption certificate and the dog has to be neutered, micro-chipped and marked. It must also be muzzled
Source: www.nwemail.co.uk

Dog kennel owner barks back at town
The dogs' owners, of course, would pay for the service. The business started slowly, and Pflaum sometimes found himself chauffeuring a single dog up and down the Taconic have spent tens of thousands of dollars defending the kennel, mortgaging their
Source: www.timesunion.com

Donations pour in for shot dog
"It's great," says owner Matthew Griego Griego doesn't fault the cop for defending himself, but questions whether he actually had to shoot Ginger. The dog is small, and the arroyo in question is actually on private land. �Griego says his family
Source: www.koat.com

Intruder shoots family dog in Metairie backyard
A trespasser shot and wounded a dog defending its backyard in Metairie, authorities said Tuesday. Zeus, a 5-year-old Doberman pinscher, was listed in stable condition at Southeast Veterinary Specialists in Metairie. But owner Henry McCaskill
Source: www.nola.com

Chicago Dog Bite Injury Lawyers Advise Dog Owners To Get Control of Their Animals, Or Be Prepared To Pay Up
“These are dogs bred for work and to defend property. In most cases, dog owners never consider how misplaced a large dog is in a city environment when it may be cooped up in an apartment most of the day.” The wisdom of the Illinois Legislature to
Source: news.yahoo.com

UPDATE: Dog owner comes forward
The owners of those dogs were found negligent in their care of the dogs and are subsequently defending themselves in court against felony charges of allowing a vicious animal at large, causing serious injury. Gallagher said dog owners
Source: www.paradisepost.com

Girl recovering from dog attack out of hospital

A South Florida whose face was mauled by a dog at a sleepover has been released from the hospital.

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Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption

Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption of feces, is common but disturbing habit in some dogs. The cause is unknown, but there are ways to deal with this behavior. Coprophagia is normal behavior under some circumstances. The bitch will normally eat the puppies feces and urine during their first few weeks of life. This keeps the den or whelping box clean. Some of the most common "treatments" for comprophagia are: sprinkling MSG on the dog's food 's putting pineapple or tomato juice or spinich in the dog's food crushing a Cert's breath mint and putting it in the food changing the dog's diet to a higher quality, more digestible food There are also some commercial products on the market Forbid Deter Both of these products have fermented vegetable extract as their main ingredient. This is for all intents and purposes the same as MSG. All the information that I have about effectiveness of any of these is anecdotal and through my own experience. I have found that MSG or a commercial product works best. Some dog owners are more comfortable using a commercial product even though the cost is much greater than plain MSG. Trial and error is the way that I have figured out how much MSG to put in the food. I have them start out with a teaspoonful and increase the amount until it has the desired effect of making the smell and taste of the feces undesirable. Ken Landa From juliejohnson - 12/4/07 9:17 AM We have also used canned pumpkin as an additive to the food - again, starting out with a teaspoon like Ken said (or even smaller if it is a small dog!). Something to be careful of with pumpkin is it can lead to diarrhea. Also, we've used Accent Spice, which I think is a commercial name for MSG if they are looking for it in the grocery store. Sometimes we have also told the clients who have cats to add these to the cat's food so the dog will stay out of the litterbox. Of course, we tell them to make sure to clear it with their vets first, especially if we know the animals have had prior digestive problems. Julie Johnson
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