Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Dog Training In Your Home was established in

Dog Training In Your Home was established in 1989 in Charlotte North Carolina. Our in home dog training philosophy is simple. We teach your dog to be a well behaved family member. In many cases your dogs home environment is enabling bad behavior. Your dog's home is the most logical place for training. Our services are designed to make training fun for you and your dog. Give us a call today to schedule your free evaluation.
Charleston Dog Training

Allison Allen
Dog Training In Your Home

Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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RULES OF THE ROAD If you are planning

RULES OF THE ROAD If you are planning on taking your dog on a road trip with you this summer, here are some things to remember: GET UP TO DATE: Check your dog's vaccinations and tags. Bring copies of your shot records with you. Make sure all relevant information is available on their tags. PREPARE TO PREVENT: Put on a fresh coat of flea and tick preventative, and make sure they've had their heartworm preventative for the month. Bring a veterinary first aid kit with you. These are available at most pet stores. STOCK UP: Make sure you have enough food, medications, and bottled water with you for your dog. Bringing bottled water can sometimes prevent dogs from getting stomach aches due to changes in water content. BUCKLE UP: Get a canine car harness. They help your dog stay in one seat and remain secure during any quick stopping. These are available at pet stores. CHECK OUT BEFORE YOU CHECK IN: There are many pet-friendly hotels for you to stop at along the way. Dogfriendly.com, petswelcome.com, bringfido.com, and doginmysuitcase.com are just a few of the many sites that the many list pet friendly accommodations available. Never leave your dog alone in the hotel room. This will prevent them coming in contact with unknowns and keep them secure. Always put out the do not disturb sign to prevent anyone from accidentally opening the door to a surprise when your dog greets them, or worse letting the dog out into the hotel unleashed. PLAN FOR PIT STOPS: Remember to plan a stop every two to three hours for your dog to go to the bathroom. Always clean up after your dog. Never leave a dog alone in a parked car because heat conditions may rapidly change. Regardless of location, always keep your dog on leash for both your security and theirs.
Charleston Dog Training

Allison Allen
Dog Training In Your Home

Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive,

Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive, we begin to start preparing special holiday treats. Turkeys, cookies, candies? the list goes on. But what if you are not the only one in the house checking out the plates? Is your dog taking food from your counters, or even right off your plate? This issue is so common that it has a name: "Counter-Surfing". To resolve this issue, you have three choices: punishment, extinction, and alternatives. Punishment is not really a choice in this case. Punish too much and the dog will be scared to go anywhere near food. Punish too little or the wrong way and you will simply teach the dog not to "surf" with you around. Turn away for a second though and all bets are off. Punishment cannot be consistent if you are not around to see the behavior, so this just won't work. While you are frustrated, punishment may just be worth the reward that your dog receives by stealing your tasty food. Extinction is the process by which a behavior disappears due to the removal of its stimulus. In other words: no food, no surfing. Surfing is a behavior that is a conditioned response. Every time the dog steals food, they are rewarded. If you got a dollar every time you touched a doorknob in your home, you would probably touch that doorknob a lot. If that reward was removed, you would most likely eventually reduce the number of times you touched the knob to a more normal level or extinguish that behavior all together. Same with the dog's thievery. You must remove the food reward from the situation by eliminating all unattended food sources. There can be no plates left within reach, no food left on counters, and no crumbs left anywhere. Storage containers, high shelving, and immediate cleaning is required for this process to work. Even dirty dishes can be a source of food reward if left around where a dog can find them. If and when this is not possible, the dog must be removed from the environment where the food is located, in order to prevent accidental reinforcement of stealing behaviors. Alternative therapy is the replacement of a negative behavior with a more positive one. In this case, the PLACE command can be used to have your dog remain in a fixed location that is away from the food. Make sure to practice often, to reward good behavior with verbal praise and petting, and to have a leash on your dog for reinforcement during practice periods. Begin with short durations and then build up to the longer ones. Treat the dog on place so that the dog understands that if he or she remains in "place" the rewards come to them! If they leave, they get nothing at all. Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you. Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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HEEL COMMAND c Begin with your dog in

HEEL COMMAND c Begin with your dog in a SIT/STAY on your left side, both of you facing forward. Step forward with your left foot, as you say “_________, HEEL.” (command tone) Patting your left hip while praising will encourage your dog to remain at your side. c Continue walking at a moderate pace. As your dog moves out of the HEEL position, use a quick SNAP AND RELEASE in the opposite direction, as you say “NO!” (correction tone) Repeat the HEEL command (command tone) as you encourage your dog with praise. c Make it a challenge for your dog to stay by your side by changing directions rapidly without warning, and by changing your speed from very slow to a brisk walk. c When practicing the HEEL command, always begin and end with your dog in a SIT/STAY position at your left side. . c The HEEL command is one of the most difficult for your dog to master. For this reason, it is crucial that you practice every day. However, limit your practice sessions to 2 minute spurts for the first week, gradually increasing the time to 8-10 minutes. Here’s a tip for practice: try point-to-point heeling. Pick an object, like a mailbox or fire hydrant. Walk your dog in HEEL directly toward that object. Then turn about-face, and repeat the procedure with a different object. This will help you teach him to move forward in a straight line, without veering or pulling. As always, remember to praise your dog -- and make it fun! TRAINING GOAL:________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind

Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind by any eye contact or starring at the food any closer to the owners or their guest form closer then 6 feet. First and foremost you need to have the owners be sure to stop feeding from the table or their hands when are they are eating or snacking. Some owners may not be feeding the dog from the table but the dog still hopes and give the eyes. I like to use a water bottle for begging. This is great if the dog does not like the water bottle. I like the fact that to correction can be done from the other side of the room and the dog sees you administer the correct from the direction that the begging occurs. 1. Start with the water bottle primed in the sink and tune the stream to a thin stream line. Then while eating at the table the owner has the bottle ready and give the dog a squirt in the forehead for coming and closer to the table then 6 feet and or starring at the plates. 2. If the water bottle does not work then you can use a shake can or put the dog into a down stay or place command. Please add your comments.... Mark Thompson
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
christopher epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc

chris epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc

Walking Your Dog in 2009 If you are

Walking Your Dog in 2009 If you are going to walk your dog, why not do it in a beautiful place? Why not change your routine and try different routes? Remember, it's not only you that will be bored if the walk is always the same! Check out the locations below to upgrade your walks in 2009! Trail Walking: The Lowcountry has many walking trails available to you and your dog. Charleston County Park and Recreation Commission offers you several options where trails through the woods are well marked, and welcome to the canine members of our community. Many of these trails are even paved! Your dog will enjoy the experience of the new smells and sounds, the new animals, and new sites just as much as you! Would you like an added challenge? Stop every so often and have your dog do an autosit. See how long you can sit still and just enjoy your moment. When the trail is wide, let your dog have some extra leash and go with a control walk. Where they narrow, call them in for a heel! By the end, you'll both be more relaxed and ready to go home for a quiet evening. Beach Walking: Many of our beaches allow dogs to be walked on leash. Some of them even have off leash hours! Why not take your dog to enjoy the coastline with you? Work on your control walk in the dunes to allow your dog to enjoy the feel of the loose sand between their toes. Work on heel in the packed sand. How close were you really keeping your dog? Turn around. Your footprints will tell you. Try to keep your dog within the width of a hand. Each time you try, remember to praise your dog when they do a good job! City Walking: Why not take your dog on a walk in the city? Each of the local towns and cities offer their own charm. You can explore their downtown areas with your four-legged friend. Try working on your autosit at street corners, and down stays while pausing on park benches. Downtown Charleston itself offers Battery Park with its views of both Rainbow Row and the harbor! Waterfront Park offers a seaside pier with swings to sit on to rest. Hampton Park has beautiful gazebos, shaded areas, and the paddock for the city police. Many local restaurants offer canine friendly eating, and many neighborhood parks offer proper canine clean up materials! If you would like to try something new, why not let your dog carry your water bottle, a ball, and other necessary goodies in a canine backpack? This adds to the physical and mental challenge to your dog while freeing your hands for easier leash work!
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Monroe Dog Groomer|

Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The

Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The American Kennel Club offers a Canine Good Citizen program designed to measure your dog's social manners out and about. The testing evaluates several things your dog has been trained for, such as walking on a loose leash, meet and greets with dogs and people, basic commands, distraction work, separation and grooming. Upon passing the test, the American Kennel Club issues a certification formally acknowledging him as a Canine Good Citizen. The test is required by most therapy dog programs, and is a great foundation if you are interested in doing this type of work with your dog. The ten items on the Canine Good Citizen test are: -Accepting a friendly stranger. -Sitting politely for petting. -Reaction to another dog. -Reaction to distraction. -Walking on a loose lead. -Walking through a crowd. -Appearance and grooming. -Sit and down on command, and staying in place. -Coming when called. -Supervised separation. Is Your Dog Ready? Make sure your dog can accomplish the objectives not only in your home, but also in different environments with new distractions. Group Classes are the perfect place for this. In fact, let the trainer know you are working towards this goal and we'll specifically help you with some of the requirements. If your dog performs well at group class, that is a great first step in earning the certificate. For all rules and regulations, visit The AKC Site.
Charlotte Dog Training |



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Monroe Dog Groomer|

Mark Thompson started Dog Training In Your Home

Mark Thompson started Dog Training In Your Home in 1989. Mark and Leslie have now opened a Doggie Daycare and Boarding kennel. Offer large play areas and professional Boarding for your dog and Cats. Please see our website at Charlotte Better Dog Kennel We are experienced Charlotte NC dog trainers that will turn a "bad dog" into a well behaved house broken dog with our in home dog training courses. We can provide many services ranging from dog potty training to dog obedience training. We can start with puppy training in the Charlotte North Carolina area or adult dog training so that your dog can become a house broken dog. We train many breeds including but not limited to labradors, golden retriever, and german shepherds Offering dog training in the following areas: Charlotte, Matthews, Pineville, Ballentyne, Mint Hill, Indian Trail, Waxhaw. All of Mecklenburg and Union County. Dog Training Indian Trail Dog Training Pineville Dog Training Matthews Dog Training Waxhaw Dog Training Mint Hill Dog Training North-Charlotte Franchise mailing address: Dog Training In Your Home 4702 W. Hwy 74 Monroe, North Carolina 28110 Phone Number: (704) 573-3647 (704) 573-3647 Phone Number: (704) 296-0001 (704) 296-0001 Mark and Leslie Thompson are the owners of the Mecklenburg and Union County Franchise. They are personally involved in all aspects of business operations. Mark Thompson volunteers at Albemarle correctional facility as the training director for the new leash on life program. Rehabilitating Inmates and dogs, this program shows just one of the ways dogs give to the community
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


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Here to help dogs do good - Yellow Springs News

Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.

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Here to help dogs do good - Yellow Springs News

Here to help dogs do good Yellow Springs News She will need these skills when she graduates and gets placed as a service dog to help someone living with epilepsy. Oron didn't know Veera when she came to the US three months ago to work at 4 Paws, one of the few service dog training centers in the ...

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Rescued dog bites TV anchor during broadcast

A dog rescued by a firefighter from a freezing pond was impounded Wednesday after biting a veteran Denver television anchor in the face during a live morning broadcast.

Dog Training Charlotte,NC

FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of

FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of the holiday and very few other days of the year. They are big, beautiful, exciting, and loud. Remember, for your dog who has hearing ten times more sensitive than we do, the loud part can catch your dog unaware, disorient them, and create anxiety. In fact, often times fight or flight instincts kick in and dogs shelters will be inundated with dogs on the days following fireworks displays. While some dogs have little or no reaction, for others, fireworks can cause serious disturbances that can be emotionally scarring for them. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which one any individual dog is or how any event may affect your dog. Here are some guidelines to consider prior to the festivities: Bringing Your Dog With You May we suggest you reconsider bringing your dog with you on your fourth adventures? These displays are not made for dogs. Often the aerial display is accompanied by sparklers and amateur displays which are lower and less predictable. Flashes of light, loud explosions, and crowds make for a confused and anxious dog with nowhere to go. Further, do not leave your dog in your car while you enjoy the show. This only reduces the "trapped" feeling to the confines of your vehicle which can result in destruction, soiling, and injury from exertion of anxious energies. Remember, a scared dog in a crowd is a danger to both itself and the people around it. Leashes and collars are not infallible. Leaving Your Dog Behind If you leave your dog at home and fireworks are being displayed nearby, make sure that they are in a place that is indoors where they have the least likelihood of causing damage to your home or themselves. Crates are strongly recommended if your dog has crating experience. Turn on, and up, your radio or television to mask the sound of the fireworks. Close your blinds or curtains to mask the flashing lights. Take away your dog's favorite toy a day or two before the festivities, and return it in time for the event. This way, they can be distracted by something you know that will give them happiness. In Either case Regardless of your canine's location, some basic steps should be taken to ensure their safety. Make sure that their tags are up to date, including one with your contact information, in the event that their fight or flight instinct gives them wings. To be doubly sure, make sure your dog is micro chipped and that that information is also correct in the event of a collar failure. Let your dog do its business prior to time for the fireworks displays. Play with them more than usual to ensure that they are tired and therefore less likely to have the energy to expend with nervousness. If your dog does react negatively to the fireworks, remember not to coddle them. If you coddle or hold them during this time, it will feel exactly the same as when you praise them. In other words, you'll be telling them: "Good job being nervous! That's what you should be doing! Keep it up!". In contrast, light massage style petting, if your dog will let you, when practiced without pity or nervousness can help calm both of you.
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INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild

INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild wolves, and although they are now domesticated, dogs and wolves still share many basic instincts. As young pups, both wild and domestic dogs are instinctively clean. Even in the wild, wolves are very reluctant to relieve themselves in or near their den. THE DEN: Wild and domestic dogs will typically establish a den. A den is a small area, normally with one opening, in which they feel safe and secure. Dogs spend lots of time in their dens: they will eat, sleep, play and whelp their puppies in there. Thus, a healthy dog will not relieve himself in his den. SCHEDULE: Your training instructor will custom design a feeding schedule for your dog. This will help you coordinate your dogs need to relieve himself with your schedule. To succeed in housebreaking your dog, it is critical that you adhere to your schedule. RELIEF STATION: You must establish a “relief station” that your dog can easily recognize. For example, you can create a 20x20 area marked by pine cones. Or if you have a natural area you’d like the dog to use, you may designate that his relief station. CORRECTION: Dogs will only learn from your correction if you catch them “red- handed”. If you don’t catch them in the act, you’re wasting your time correcting them. WATCH OR CONFINEMENT WATCH: Since after-the-fact corrections are not effective, it is sometimes necessary to watch your dog at all times. WATCH makes this practical. Your dog will be on his leash and by your side . This allows you to move about the house, catching your dog in the act of relieving himself. You will then be able to correct him -- effectively -- on the spot. Another benefit of the WATCH mode is that in forcing your dog to constantly follow your movements, you are asserting your leadership and ensuring his loyalty. CONFINEMENT: Achieves two goals: first, it establishes a den for your dog. Second, it forces your dog to rely on his instinctive desire NOT to soil his den. If your dog relieves himself in the den, he’ll quickly find this distasteful. He will learn to wait until being released from confinement to take care of his business. If, however, you do find that your dog has relieved himself in his den, leave him with the mess for 15 minutes. You want this behavior to have negative consequences for your dog. WATCH/CONFINEMENT procedures will be effective only if your housebreaking schedule is followed! PLEASE remember: it is very important to fill out your housebreaking logs completely.
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