Does my dog really need daily walks?

Does my dog really need daily walks?
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INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild

INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild wolves, and although they are now domesticated, dogs and wolves still share many basic instincts. As young pups, both wild and domestic dogs are instinctively clean. Even in the wild, wolves are very reluctant to relieve themselves in or near their den. THE DEN: Wild and domestic dogs will typically establish a den. A den is a small area, normally with one opening, in which they feel safe and secure. Dogs spend lots of time in their dens: they will eat, sleep, play and whelp their puppies in there. Thus, a healthy dog will not relieve himself in his den. SCHEDULE: Your training instructor will custom design a feeding schedule for your dog. This will help you coordinate your dogs need to relieve himself with your schedule. To succeed in housebreaking your dog, it is critical that you adhere to your schedule. RELIEF STATION: You must establish a “relief station” that your dog can easily recognize. For example, you can create a 20x20 area marked by pine cones. Or if you have a natural area you’d like the dog to use, you may designate that his relief station. CORRECTION: Dogs will only learn from your correction if you catch them “red- handed”. If you don’t catch them in the act, you’re wasting your time correcting them. WATCH OR CONFINEMENT WATCH: Since after-the-fact corrections are not effective, it is sometimes necessary to watch your dog at all times. WATCH makes this practical. Your dog will be on his leash and by your side . This allows you to move about the house, catching your dog in the act of relieving himself. You will then be able to correct him -- effectively -- on the spot. Another benefit of the WATCH mode is that in forcing your dog to constantly follow your movements, you are asserting your leadership and ensuring his loyalty. CONFINEMENT: Achieves two goals: first, it establishes a den for your dog. Second, it forces your dog to rely on his instinctive desire NOT to soil his den. If your dog relieves himself in the den, he’ll quickly find this distasteful. He will learn to wait until being released from confinement to take care of his business. If, however, you do find that your dog has relieved himself in his den, leave him with the mess for 15 minutes. You want this behavior to have negative consequences for your dog. WATCH/CONFINEMENT procedures will be effective only if your housebreaking schedule is followed! PLEASE remember: it is very important to fill out your housebreaking logs completely.
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Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind

Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind by any eye contact or starring at the food any closer to the owners or their guest form closer then 6 feet. First and foremost you need to have the owners be sure to stop feeding from the table or their hands when are they are eating or snacking. Some owners may not be feeding the dog from the table but the dog still hopes and give the eyes. I like to use a water bottle for begging. This is great if the dog does not like the water bottle. I like the fact that to correction can be done from the other side of the room and the dog sees you administer the correct from the direction that the begging occurs. 1. Start with the water bottle primed in the sink and tune the stream to a thin stream line. Then while eating at the table the owner has the bottle ready and give the dog a squirt in the forehead for coming and closer to the table then 6 feet and or starring at the plates. 2. If the water bottle does not work then you can use a shake can or put the dog into a down stay or place command. Please add your comments.... Mark Thompson
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BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal

BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal and you have invited over friends. You gather around the table and soak in the sights and smells of the prepared meal and look forward to spending your time together. Then you realize that you are not the only one who appreciates the event. Your dog has arrived and is staring, pawing, and whining in a full theatrical production hoping to be paid in food. Begging is not a reality that most dog owners enjoy, and is appreciated by fewer guests. What if your dog does not beg for food, but instead begs for your attention? Why do dogs beg at all? How do you make them stop? Dogs beg because they are either looking for food, rank, or attention. Dogs who beg for food generally get what they want. To resolve this type of beggar you need to be sure that your dog never receives food during human food times. This means that you can never reward your dog with a treat at the table or during food preparation. Put the scraps off to the side and give it to your dog during its regular feeding times, in their bowl, if you must, but never give it to them during human food events. Never means never. Dogs are persistent and even a 1% chance will be worth pursuing. You will lose ground if anyone feeds the dog during their begging periods. In the dog world, the order in which the animals eat is an indication of their rank within the pack. Therefore, sometimes begging is a challenge for position within the family. The most powerful dogs eat first and the lowest ranking dog eats last. When a dog gets rewarded for begging, they eat at the same time, or before someone else, and therefore move up the leadership ladder. The rightful position of a canine companion is below all of the family members. Make sure that your dog does not eat during or before anyone in the household. Feed the dog in its own bowl, away from the dinner table, after the meal to maintain the proper balance in your family's hierarchy. Dogs who beg for attention exhibit the same whining, crying, and pawing behaviors, but, instead of food, pursue interaction. In order to reverse these behaviors, you need to avoid giving your dog attention during these times. Whenever they begin to act out, ignore them completely. No eye contact, no verbal reactions, no touching. If you respond during their tantrum, the dog will achieve the attention it is desires. Negative attention is still attention. Resume interaction when the dog stops its negative behavior. The dog will realize that it is only positive behavior that receives their desired outcome. Overcome the possible guilt that can come from ignoring the begging by giving your dog some of your quality time when they are doing the right thing, so that they know that they do not need to beg in the first place.
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Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The

Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The American Kennel Club offers a Canine Good Citizen program designed to measure your dog's social manners out and about. The testing evaluates several things your dog has been trained for, such as walking on a loose leash, meet and greets with dogs and people, basic commands, distraction work, separation and grooming. Upon passing the test, the American Kennel Club issues a certification formally acknowledging him as a Canine Good Citizen. The test is required by most therapy dog programs, and is a great foundation if you are interested in doing this type of work with your dog. The ten items on the Canine Good Citizen test are: -Accepting a friendly stranger. -Sitting politely for petting. -Reaction to another dog. -Reaction to distraction. -Walking on a loose lead. -Walking through a crowd. -Appearance and grooming. -Sit and down on command, and staying in place. -Coming when called. -Supervised separation. Is Your Dog Ready? Make sure your dog can accomplish the objectives not only in your home, but also in different environments with new distractions. Group Classes are the perfect place for this. In fact, let the trainer know you are working towards this goal and we'll specifically help you with some of the requirements. If your dog performs well at group class, that is a great first step in earning the certificate. For all rules and regulations, visit The AKC Site.
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LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching stand/stay your dog should have a complete understanding of sit/stay. * Begin with your dog in a sit/stay on your left side facing in the same direction you are. * Using your right hand reach across your body grasping the leash about 6” from your dog collar. * Step back and place your left hand (palm toward yourself) on the deep inside of your right thigh. * Then as you give the command “stand” pull forward with your right hand while using your left hand to lift the dogs hind quarter into the air. * Once your dog reaches the standing position give the command to “stay”, then step in front of your dog. * Keep in mind, most dogs will attempt to sit. If this should happen, move quickly, stepping forward with your left leg (putting your hand back inside your thigh), then lightly snap the leash toward you as you lift your dogs hind quarters into the the stand position, and say “NO !!” (correction tone) then say “stand”. (light command tone). * Continue to follow the above steps for seven full days before expecting the dog to stand on his own. * Consult your training instructor for the next steps. TRAINING GOAL:_________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647 Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of

FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of the holiday and very few other days of the year. They are big, beautiful, exciting, and loud. Remember, for your dog who has hearing ten times more sensitive than we do, the loud part can catch your dog unaware, disorient them, and create anxiety. In fact, often times fight or flight instincts kick in and dogs shelters will be inundated with dogs on the days following fireworks displays. While some dogs have little or no reaction, for others, fireworks can cause serious disturbances that can be emotionally scarring for them. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which one any individual dog is or how any event may affect your dog. Here are some guidelines to consider prior to the festivities: Bringing Your Dog With You May we suggest you reconsider bringing your dog with you on your fourth adventures? These displays are not made for dogs. Often the aerial display is accompanied by sparklers and amateur displays which are lower and less predictable. Flashes of light, loud explosions, and crowds make for a confused and anxious dog with nowhere to go. Further, do not leave your dog in your car while you enjoy the show. This only reduces the "trapped" feeling to the confines of your vehicle which can result in destruction, soiling, and injury from exertion of anxious energies. Remember, a scared dog in a crowd is a danger to both itself and the people around it. Leashes and collars are not infallible. Leaving Your Dog Behind If you leave your dog at home and fireworks are being displayed nearby, make sure that they are in a place that is indoors where they have the least likelihood of causing damage to your home or themselves. Crates are strongly recommended if your dog has crating experience. Turn on, and up, your radio or television to mask the sound of the fireworks. Close your blinds or curtains to mask the flashing lights. Take away your dog's favorite toy a day or two before the festivities, and return it in time for the event. This way, they can be distracted by something you know that will give them happiness. In Either case Regardless of your canine's location, some basic steps should be taken to ensure their safety. Make sure that their tags are up to date, including one with your contact information, in the event that their fight or flight instinct gives them wings. To be doubly sure, make sure your dog is micro chipped and that that information is also correct in the event of a collar failure. Let your dog do its business prior to time for the fireworks displays. Play with them more than usual to ensure that they are tired and therefore less likely to have the energy to expend with nervousness. If your dog does react negatively to the fireworks, remember not to coddle them. If you coddle or hold them during this time, it will feel exactly the same as when you praise them. In other words, you'll be telling them: "Good job being nervous! That's what you should be doing! Keep it up!". In contrast, light massage style petting, if your dog will let you, when practiced without pity or nervousness can help calm both of you.
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Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
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Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
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LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching stand/stay your dog should have a complete understanding of sit/stay. * Begin with your dog in a sit/stay on your left side facing in the same direction you are. * Using your right hand reach across your body grasping the leash about 6” from your dog collar. * Step back and place your left hand (palm toward yourself) on the deep inside of your right thigh. * Then as you give the command “stand” pull forward with your right hand while using your left hand to lift the dogs hind quarter into the air. * Once your dog reaches the standing position give the command to “stay”, then step in front of your dog. * Keep in mind, most dogs will attempt to sit. If this should happen, move quickly, stepping forward with your left leg (putting your hand back inside your thigh), then lightly snap the leash toward you as you lift your dogs hind quarters into the the stand position, and say “NO !!” (correction tone) then say “stand”. (light command tone). * Continue to follow the above steps for seven full days before expecting the dog to stand on his own. * Consult your training instructor for the next steps. TRAINING GOAL:_________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647 Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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COME COMMAND Hide and Seek * Using two

COME COMMAND Hide and Seek * Using two people-play hide and seek-having one person hold the dog in the house or yard allow him to watch one of you walk away and hide within voice range. Once in hiding place give the command "________, come" (command tone) followed by, "good boy, come on boy, good boy, come on boy, good boy come on boy(Praise Tone) , _________, come" (command tone). When he reaches you, place your left hand over his hind quarters - And your right hand under his chin then gently rotate him into the sitting position......*remember, NO CORRECTION! Round Robin * Have several people stand in a large circle-with the dog on leash in the middle. One person at a time squats placing one knee on the ground, pats their knee saying "___________, come" (praise tone) While everyone else turns their back ; continue around circle until everyone has had a turn. Formal Come * Put your dog in a sit/stay while facing him from 6-10 feet away. * With the leash in your hand give the command "__________, come" (command tone), as you use your right hand to give him a hand signal; reach straight out in front of you with right hand palm down, then draw your hand toward your chest palm in. * Use the leash to guide him straight to you while coaxing him with praise. * Once he gets to you give the command, "_________, sit", then lift gently on leash as you lightly touch his hips, once he sits-lots of praise. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647, Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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