Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts,

DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts, and dirty dogs: Digging can be a very destructive and expensive adventure for your dog to embark upon. First, you need to question why your dog is digging in the first place. Is it bored? We already spoke to the resolution of that issue in the above article. Second, do they dig and lay in the holes? Then your dog may be hot or cold and looking for some relief. Train your dog where to lay his head by finding a more suitable bed that satisfies their warmth or cooling requirements. Third and most tricky, is your dog trying to leave your yard by digging under a fence? To reverse this one, you will need to attach a long line to their collar and watch them. When you catch them in the act of digging, you need to correct them, while saying "NO!", and then replace their behavior with an obedience command. When you find holes, it is important to immediately refill them. Check to be sure that the dog has not buried anything in the hole to prevent them from re-digging the hole to retrieve their items. Do not allow your dog to take food, treats, or rawhides outside because this often can lead to an instinctive burying behavior to protect their leftovers. If the behaviors continue after consistent observing and training on your own, make sure to call us so that the behaviors do not become a solidified habit.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Charlotte Dog Training | Charlotte Dog Daycare |

Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste

DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste o In the dog eat dog world of real estate, an area is only as good as its property values. And for areas overrun by smelly piles of dog poop, the feces factor could prove the weakest link to many homeowners. o The American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), estimates Americans own more pets than ever before, with 74.8 million dogs as of 2008. o Beyond your grass, it has been estimated that a single gram of dog feces can contain 23 million fecal coliform bacteria, which are known to cause cramps, diarrhea, intestinal illness, and serious kidney disorders in humans. EPA even estimates that two or three days worth of droppings from a population of about 100 dogs would contribute enough bacteria to temporarily close a bay, and all watershed areas within 20 miles of it, to swimming and shellfishing. o The EPA explains that the decay of your pet's waste actually creates nutrients for weeds and algae that grow in the waterways. As these organisms thrive on your dog's droppings, they overtake the water and limit the amount of light that can penetrate the water's surface. As a result, oxygen levels in the water decrease, and the fish and seafood we eat can be asphyxiated, EPA says. o A toxic cycle o If you aren't worried about your local waterways, you may be a bit more concerned about the impact of dog droppings on your home. The thing about persistently disposing of stools improperly (or not at all) is that it kicks off a harmful cycle that can affect your whole family - including your pet. o According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), pet droppings can contribute to diseases animals pass to humans, called zoonoses. When infected dog droppings are deposited on your lawn, the eggs of certain roundworms and other parasites can linger in your soil for years. Anyone who comes into contact with that soil - be it through gardening, playing sports, walking barefoot or any other means - runs the risk of coming into contact with those eggs; especially your dog. o Some of the hard-to-pronounce parasites your lawn could harbor include Cryptosporidium, Giardia, Salmonella, as well as hookworms, ringworms and tapeworms. Infections from these bugs often cause fever, muscle aches, headache, vomiting, and diarrhea in humans. Children are most susceptible, since they often play in the dirt and put things in their mouths or eyes. o In the end, it is best not to let sleeping dogs lie when it comes to issues of communal cleanliness. After all, proper sanitation could mean the difference between your yard being a beautiful oasis, or an area that has gone to the dogs. o Author: Dave Mason is the franchise owner of DoodyCalls, Charleston's Premier Pet Waste Removal Service
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COME COMMAND Hide and Seek * Using two

COME COMMAND Hide and Seek * Using two people-play hide and seek-having one person hold the dog in the house or yard allow him to watch one of you walk away and hide within voice range. Once in hiding place give the command "________, come" (command tone) followed by, "good boy, come on boy, good boy, come on boy, good boy come on boy(Praise Tone) , _________, come" (command tone). When he reaches you, place your left hand over his hind quarters - And your right hand under his chin then gently rotate him into the sitting position......*remember, NO CORRECTION! Round Robin * Have several people stand in a large circle-with the dog on leash in the middle. One person at a time squats placing one knee on the ground, pats their knee saying "___________, come" (praise tone) While everyone else turns their back ; continue around circle until everyone has had a turn. Formal Come * Put your dog in a sit/stay while facing him from 6-10 feet away. * With the leash in your hand give the command "__________, come" (command tone), as you use your right hand to give him a hand signal; reach straight out in front of you with right hand palm down, then draw your hand toward your chest palm in. * Use the leash to guide him straight to you while coaxing him with praise. * Once he gets to you give the command, "_________, sit", then lift gently on leash as you lightly touch his hips, once he sits-lots of praise. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647, Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season,

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season, when you are visiting your friends and family, you may be faced with the opportunity to meet a dog that you do not know. Here are some tips to help you have a healthy and happy experience by understanding the appropriate way to approach a new dog: Always ask an owner for permission to touch their dog prior to petting. Ask if the dog is friendly. Some dogs are not welcoming to guests. Some owners do not like their dog to interact with guests. You do not want to risk your personal safety or reward them for a behavior their owner dislikes. Watch a dog's body language. If their hair stands up, they stop moving or wagging their tail, they hold their breath, they crouch down to the ground, or they begin barking or lunging, simply do not touch them. They may be nervous and are better left alone. Never run up to a stray dog and pet them. You do not know how this dog responds to people, if the dog is injured, or if the dog is otherwise aggressive. It is best to let the dog come to you, if you decide to interact at all. Let them hear and smell you prior to interacting with them directly. Stand still and put your hand out for the dog to smell. Let them get comfortable with your scents and sounds prior to actual touching. Do not approach the dog face-to-face. Rather, position yourself beside the dog. A face-to-face meeting can become a threat to a dog that you may not mean to make. Do not touch the dog if you are nervous. The dog will know and it will make them nervous as well. There is no reason to pet a dog if you do not feel comfortable. Do not pet a dog on the head when you first meet them. A shoulder or back petting session is more appropriate. Many dogs get nervous and/or upset when they are pet on top of their heads, or when people reach over their heads to pet them. Do not stare a dog in the eye. While this is a show of confidence in the USA, it is a show of confrontation in the canine world. Gently look at the dogs ears, face, or chest, but try to avoid direct eye contact. If you become uncomfortable or are being attacked by a dog you have just met NEVER turn your back and run away. The dog will chase you. It will think you are playing a game or have become a prey animal. Instead, remain calm, stand still until the dog goes away, and/or guard your body with any personal items (purse, umbrella, briefcase, etc.) that you have with you. Do not flail your arms, scream, throw personal items, or wave your fingers at a dog. Excitement and nervousness begets excitement and nervousness. Loose and flailing items are more easily grabbed by a dog. Close your fists and hold your arms steady at your side or across your body to keep yourself in a safer situation. Pet the dog gently, slowly, with a flat hand, in one direction. When you do pet a dog you have not met before, remember to speak slowly and quietly in sweet tones. Watch your children and be sure to show them the appropriate ways to meet a dog. Remember, even if an owner says that a dog is friendly, you are a stranger to them. Earn their trust by respecting their space. This is especially true of puppies for whom everything is new, loud, and can become overwhelming.
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Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training,

Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training, we often hear that people simply do not have time to practice with their dogs. While setting aside time to spend one on one with your dog is ideal, and should be pursued whenever possible, we understand that sometimes life can be busy. We are, after all, human. Even though life is busy, your dog still needs repetition and consistency in order to develop the habits that you desire. Often people do not realize that the time spent with your dog, whether set aside or not, is time spent training. Why not integrate your practice into your daily routines so that you can make the most of your time and bond with your dog? There are lots of ways to do it. Here are just a few: SIT and DOWN: Sit and down commands should be practiced whenever you need your dog to stop moving and freeze into position. While challenging your dog to a long stay session during a set-aside practice time is one way to do it, another is having him or her practice her down and/or sit stays while you answer the door, read a magazine, or brush your teeth. Whenever your dog is moving around and you would rather them not be, replace the negative behavior with a positive one. PLACE: Working on Place can be easily accomplished while you watch television or check your email! Start with short place challenges during commercial breaks and then when your dog gets better at it, extend out to actual show segments. Put them on place while you start reading your email, see how many you can get through before your dog tries to get up! While snuggling with your dog during your downtime is often a relaxing time for many owners, this is a way to get in your practice so that when guests come, they can be just as relaxed. Don't forget, if you don't practice, your dog is not going to remember what to do when you need it to. WAITING : Even the simple acts of going through a doorway to take your dog out or feeding them are great opportunities for integrated practice. Have your dog do a sit/stay or a down/stay and wait at doorways. You should always go through first. Have them sit/stay or down/stay while you put down their food. Release them from their stays with a "you're through". This way they understand that you own the food and they are motivated to listen!
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TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a

TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a trick that reinforces patience with food! Try the following steps to train the Treat-On-The-Nose trick! Brush up on your sit-stay before you attempt this trick. Your dog has to sit perfectly still to hold the treat! Start with a sit-stay directly in front of you while you sit in a chair. Their head should be slightly over your lap. Put one hand under the dog's head and raise its nose to a position that is level to the floor. Place the treat on the flattest part of their nose. While you gently rest their muzzle in your hand, alternate praise with the phrase "Hold It!" in your command tone. After a few seconds, release him, praise him, and let him flip the treat off his nose and eat it. Repeat this process five to ten times per day for several days. As your dog begins to hold their own head steady, begin to remove your hands from their muzzle to let them do it alone. Some dogs will drop the treat on the floor and pick it up. Others will flip it into the air and catch it. If you desire the flip method and your dog is a "dropper", immediately command them to "leave it" if they drop it. Let them take it if they flip it. With consistency, this will condition the dog to flip it. If they do not catch it on the first flip, praise the effort with "good dog!" so that they do not give up. When they do catch it, praise vigorously!
Charlotte Dog Training |



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