SUMMER SUN SAFETY Summertime is fun for dogs

SUMMER SUN SAFETY Summertime is fun for dogs and humans alike. It's a great time to travel and enjoy the great outdoors. Let us review a few safety tips to make sure that you and your dog can be ready for your adventures: Ride Right. Are you taking your dog for a ride in the car? Nothing compares to a happy dog's ears as he takes on the wind outside of a car window! Be careful though. Do not ever leave a dog alone in a parked vehicle especially in direct sun. Even when it's only mildly hot out, the inside of a car can become sweltering. Rolling down the windows is not enough relief. Heat stroke can happen to dogs, and just like in people can cause brain damage and even death. Symptoms include panting, drooling, rapid pulse and fever. Immediately immerse the dog in cool water and seek emergency veterinary assistance. Sunburns. Did you know that dogs get sunburns just like we do? Especially the dogs with shorter hair, lighter or pink skin, and pink noses are most susceptible. Try to limit your dog's exposure to days when the sun is less strong. Sunblock applied to ears and noses 30 minutes before exposure will help. Sink or Swim. Not all dogs know how to swim instinctively. Do not just drop them in a pool or throw them in the ocean to see how they do. Make sure that they choose their swimming adventure. Start in shallow water and call your dog's name. Maybe try tossing a toy to see if they will retrieve it. Better yet? If you have a friend with a dog who can swim, let them lead the way. Do not be surprised if both of your dog's legs don't paddle right away. Most dogs start with just their front legs. Stick close to help with the back end if they need it. Watch for tides, surfers, and other swimmers to be sure your dog has a calm introduction to the world of water. Consider getting a canine life preserver so that they can have the support while they learn. Always use preservers on boating adventures. They need them just like humans. Remember that swimming uses different muscles and can tire your animal quickly. Always keep your dog in reach so that you can help them if they need it. You are their best friend and lifeguard. Fancy Footwork. If your dog starts to walk awkwardly on the roads or concrete, consider the heat of the pavement. Their feet may literally be burning. Whenever possible, avoid walking your dog on the blacktop when it is hot to the touch. Walk them on the sidewalk, in the grass, or in the shade. Also, when starting to increase the speed, frequency, or change the terrain of your dog's walk, remember that they do not wear shoes. It may take them a while to build the calluses on their paws necessary to walk in these areas. If you're going hiking or onto surfaces where you would not be comfortable walking barefoot, consider your pet's feet. There are even sneakers available for animals that may have sensitive paws! Gear up the grooming. Make sure that you keep up with your dog's brushing and washing to ensure good health in the heat. This is when they shed more and get dirtier than most other times of the year. Don't forget to apply their flea/tick prevention and give them their heartworm preventatives each month as well. These are just a few of the considerations to be made during the summer. We wish you the safest of adventures and loads of fun this season!
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INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild

INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild wolves, and although they are now domesticated, dogs and wolves still share many basic instincts. As young pups, both wild and domestic dogs are instinctively clean. Even in the wild, wolves are very reluctant to relieve themselves in or near their den. THE DEN: Wild and domestic dogs will typically establish a den. A den is a small area, normally with one opening, in which they feel safe and secure. Dogs spend lots of time in their dens: they will eat, sleep, play and whelp their puppies in there. Thus, a healthy dog will not relieve himself in his den. SCHEDULE: Your training instructor will custom design a feeding schedule for your dog. This will help you coordinate your dogs need to relieve himself with your schedule. To succeed in housebreaking your dog, it is critical that you adhere to your schedule. RELIEF STATION: You must establish a “relief station” that your dog can easily recognize. For example, you can create a 20x20 area marked by pine cones. Or if you have a natural area you’d like the dog to use, you may designate that his relief station. CORRECTION: Dogs will only learn from your correction if you catch them “red- handed”. If you don’t catch them in the act, you’re wasting your time correcting them. WATCH OR CONFINEMENT WATCH: Since after-the-fact corrections are not effective, it is sometimes necessary to watch your dog at all times. WATCH makes this practical. Your dog will be on his leash and by your side . This allows you to move about the house, catching your dog in the act of relieving himself. You will then be able to correct him -- effectively -- on the spot. Another benefit of the WATCH mode is that in forcing your dog to constantly follow your movements, you are asserting your leadership and ensuring his loyalty. CONFINEMENT: Achieves two goals: first, it establishes a den for your dog. Second, it forces your dog to rely on his instinctive desire NOT to soil his den. If your dog relieves himself in the den, he’ll quickly find this distasteful. He will learn to wait until being released from confinement to take care of his business. If, however, you do find that your dog has relieved himself in his den, leave him with the mess for 15 minutes. You want this behavior to have negative consequences for your dog. WATCH/CONFINEMENT procedures will be effective only if your housebreaking schedule is followed! PLEASE remember: it is very important to fill out your housebreaking logs completely.
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Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and

Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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Spotlight on: Taste Spuds owner Pam Rugger-McKenna

OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring, we look forward to warmer weather and more time outside. For dog owners, many feel that this is a time that the dog can experience more freedom. If done correctly, this can be a great experience. If not done correctly, mischief and mayhem can ensue. Here are some helpful hints to make your spring less stressful: Boredom can lead to big problems. If you leave your dog outside without helping them to release their physical and mental energies beforehand, you may find that they will become creative. Their projects can range from a small hole to a knocking over your prized barbeque to tearing down or redecorating your deck and lawn furniture. Alone time outside does not replace walking and heeling practice. It is not an automatic relief of stored up energy, at least not in a consistently positive manner. A nap underneath a tree outside will only result when the dog is exhausted. Make sure to not put your dog in a position to express their creative energies in a way that would not make you proud. A watched dog is a better dog. Do not leave your dog in your yard unsupervised, especially if you expect them to behave. If regularly attended, the dog will understand that outside is just like inside: you are the leader and they need to listen accordingly. New sights, new sounds, looser dirt, small animals beginning their springtime frolic, and increased daily sunlight are all invitations for a grand canine adventure. If you would rather your dog not partake in these activities, you need to be consistent with your training. Remember, a long line (30 feet) can give your dog an increased area to play while remaining able to be consistent with your corrections. Even if your dog is reliably off leash trained, it may take a couple of days to remind them how to behave in their changed environment. Without a leash, this becomes much more difficult. Do not use a remote collar without proper training. Canine-proof your yard as much as possible. Too much time outdoors unattended can result in housebreaking issues. If a dog never has to ask to go outside, then it never will. Designate one area of the yard for bathroom activities, and make sure that they have enough time indoors to remember to hold it when they are not in their "rest" area. Dogs are creatures of habit. Do not assume that your dog will be happy simply because it is outside. Banishing them to the great outdoors while you are away can create stress. Many dogs would be happier to remain surrounded by the familiar sights and sounds indoors that can remind them of their place in your home especially if you have already proofed your dog for inside unattended time. If they are used to being in a crate, it is most likely relaxing for them to remain in their routine.




Spotlight on: Taste Spuds owner Pam Rugger-McKenna
Pam Rugger-McKenna isn’t annoyed when people refer to her as “Potato Pam.” She’s actually proud of it. After 30 years of serving up piping hot baked potatoes topped with, well, just about anything, she has come to wear the moniker well

Two men save woman, dog after fire in West Allis
WEST ALLIS — Two men came to the rescue of a woman and a dog during a fire in West Allis Tuesday morning. The men were across the street when they noticed the fire at a home on South 55th Street and Burnham. The fire was upstairs, and the men

Guest columnist: Save part of pay now, reap rewards later
But when Mom and Dad aren’t taking care of the necessities any more, and you have your own bills to pay, it’s easy to lose track and forget to save. As a reminder of just how important it is to put part of your income aside — and to do it

Mother of dog-attack victim describes ordeal
The mother said that “instincts took over” as she shielded her daughter’s body to save her from a more sustained attack It was then that the dog attacked the girl, who cannot be named for legal reasons. Yesterday Gary Hindley, 56, of Chingford

Blotter: Deputy struggles to save woman from self
The first time he was inquiring about a complaint from a roommate that the resident had kicked her out of the house and would not let her have her two dogs. She said the woman also kept her guitar. The resident would not talk to the deputy or open the door

Woman rescued from pond after she tried to save dog
SOUTH VIENNA — Emergency crews rescued a woman who went onto a frozen pond in an attempt to save a dog. The incident happened in eastern Clark County in the 9500 block of Jones Road. The woman’s husband called 911 around 12:45 p.m. Monday and said his

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Alpha Lifts - This is a great way

Alpha Lifts - This is a great way to start getting puppy to trust and give in to the owners authority. This is not as dominate as an alpha rollover yet it is a smaller version of the concept of the dog losing some control over there freedom. The owner would stand over their dog facing the same direction of the dog. With one leg on each side of the dog. Then using both hands the owner reaches under the dogs chest and lifts the dogs front legs off the ground. Allowing the dogs front legs to very lightly touch the ground. This will tempt the dog to try and walk away, however they can not and learn to trust in the fact that the owner will release them once they no longer try to move. Then the owner can do the same thing with all four feet off the ground, same As above. This is a great exercise for owners to use to gain trust and slight dominance over their dogs. Mark Thompson
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MANAGING THE MUD So you are ready to

MANAGING THE MUD So you are ready to go back inside, but you aren't ready to mop the floors? What do you do if your dog has managed to get covered in mud? Even if it is just the paws, tracking mud into the house can make for a major cleaning project. Here is how to manage the mud tracking: Get doormats for each doorway to the outside. Make sure they look similar to one another. These mats will serve as a visual barrier to entry for your dog that, with your help and training, can show the dog just where to wait before coming inside. Pair each doormat with a towel for wiping down paws. Practice makes perfect. Make sure to gear up your daily practice of obedience training so that you can train your dog to apply their knowledge to the new season's activities. Sit or Stand Stay is the perfect command to replace the wiggle worm behaviors commonly associated with paw cleaning. Remember, consistency and repetitions create habits in both humans and canines alike. Make your trips outside an adventure within limits that are clear to the dog. Show them what you do and do not want them to do over and over again before expecting them to understand and do it on their own. A few weeks of chaperoning may be a lot of work, but it will pay off in years of trustworthiness and positive behavior in your dog. While we cannot help you teach your dog to mop the floors themselves, we are here if you have any questions on how to curb spring fever.
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INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild

INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild wolves, and although they are now domesticated, dogs and wolves still share many basic instincts. As young pups, both wild and domestic dogs are instinctively clean. Even in the wild, wolves are very reluctant to relieve themselves in or near their den. THE DEN: Wild and domestic dogs will typically establish a den. A den is a small area, normally with one opening, in which they feel safe and secure. Dogs spend lots of time in their dens: they will eat, sleep, play and whelp their puppies in there. Thus, a healthy dog will not relieve himself in his den. SCHEDULE: Your training instructor will custom design a feeding schedule for your dog. This will help you coordinate your dogs need to relieve himself with your schedule. To succeed in housebreaking your dog, it is critical that you adhere to your schedule. RELIEF STATION: You must establish a “relief station” that your dog can easily recognize. For example, you can create a 20x20 area marked by pine cones. Or if you have a natural area you’d like the dog to use, you may designate that his relief station. CORRECTION: Dogs will only learn from your correction if you catch them “red- handed”. If you don’t catch them in the act, you’re wasting your time correcting them. WATCH OR CONFINEMENT WATCH: Since after-the-fact corrections are not effective, it is sometimes necessary to watch your dog at all times. WATCH makes this practical. Your dog will be on his leash and by your side . This allows you to move about the house, catching your dog in the act of relieving himself. You will then be able to correct him -- effectively -- on the spot. Another benefit of the WATCH mode is that in forcing your dog to constantly follow your movements, you are asserting your leadership and ensuring his loyalty. CONFINEMENT: Achieves two goals: first, it establishes a den for your dog. Second, it forces your dog to rely on his instinctive desire NOT to soil his den. If your dog relieves himself in the den, he’ll quickly find this distasteful. He will learn to wait until being released from confinement to take care of his business. If, however, you do find that your dog has relieved himself in his den, leave him with the mess for 15 minutes. You want this behavior to have negative consequences for your dog. WATCH/CONFINEMENT procedures will be effective only if your housebreaking schedule is followed! PLEASE remember: it is very important to fill out your housebreaking logs completely.
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Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind

Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind by any eye contact or starring at the food any closer to the owners or their guest form closer then 6 feet. First and foremost you need to have the owners be sure to stop feeding from the table or their hands when are they are eating or snacking. Some owners may not be feeding the dog from the table but the dog still hopes and give the eyes. I like to use a water bottle for begging. This is great if the dog does not like the water bottle. I like the fact that to correction can be done from the other side of the room and the dog sees you administer the correct from the direction that the begging occurs. 1. Start with the water bottle primed in the sink and tune the stream to a thin stream line. Then while eating at the table the owner has the bottle ready and give the dog a squirt in the forehead for coming and closer to the table then 6 feet and or starring at the plates. 2. If the water bottle does not work then you can use a shake can or put the dog into a down stay or place command. Please add your comments.... Mark Thompson
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Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
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Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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RULES OF THE ROAD If you are planning

RULES OF THE ROAD If you are planning on taking your dog on a road trip with you this summer, here are some things to remember: GET UP TO DATE: Check your dog's vaccinations and tags. Bring copies of your shot records with you. Make sure all relevant information is available on their tags. PREPARE TO PREVENT: Put on a fresh coat of flea and tick preventative, and make sure they've had their heartworm preventative for the month. Bring a veterinary first aid kit with you. These are available at most pet stores. STOCK UP: Make sure you have enough food, medications, and bottled water with you for your dog. Bringing bottled water can sometimes prevent dogs from getting stomach aches due to changes in water content. BUCKLE UP: Get a canine car harness. They help your dog stay in one seat and remain secure during any quick stopping. These are available at pet stores. CHECK OUT BEFORE YOU CHECK IN: There are many pet-friendly hotels for you to stop at along the way. Dogfriendly.com, petswelcome.com, bringfido.com, and doginmysuitcase.com are just a few of the many sites that the many list pet friendly accommodations available. Never leave your dog alone in the hotel room. This will prevent them coming in contact with unknowns and keep them secure. Always put out the do not disturb sign to prevent anyone from accidentally opening the door to a surprise when your dog greets them, or worse letting the dog out into the hotel unleashed. PLAN FOR PIT STOPS: Remember to plan a stop every two to three hours for your dog to go to the bathroom. Always clean up after your dog. Never leave a dog alone in a parked car because heat conditions may rapidly change. Regardless of location, always keep your dog on leash for both your security and theirs.
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