Thursday, September 6, 2012

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
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Charlotte Dog Training | Charlotte Dog Daycare |

Charlotte Dog Training |
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Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive,

Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive, we begin to start preparing special holiday treats. Turkeys, cookies, candies? the list goes on. But what if you are not the only one in the house checking out the plates? Is your dog taking food from your counters, or even right off your plate? This issue is so common that it has a name: "Counter-Surfing". To resolve this issue, you have three choices: punishment, extinction, and alternatives. Punishment is not really a choice in this case. Punish too much and the dog will be scared to go anywhere near food. Punish too little or the wrong way and you will simply teach the dog not to "surf" with you around. Turn away for a second though and all bets are off. Punishment cannot be consistent if you are not around to see the behavior, so this just won't work. While you are frustrated, punishment may just be worth the reward that your dog receives by stealing your tasty food. Extinction is the process by which a behavior disappears due to the removal of its stimulus. In other words: no food, no surfing. Surfing is a behavior that is a conditioned response. Every time the dog steals food, they are rewarded. If you got a dollar every time you touched a doorknob in your home, you would probably touch that doorknob a lot. If that reward was removed, you would most likely eventually reduce the number of times you touched the knob to a more normal level or extinguish that behavior all together. Same with the dog's thievery. You must remove the food reward from the situation by eliminating all unattended food sources. There can be no plates left within reach, no food left on counters, and no crumbs left anywhere. Storage containers, high shelving, and immediate cleaning is required for this process to work. Even dirty dishes can be a source of food reward if left around where a dog can find them. If and when this is not possible, the dog must be removed from the environment where the food is located, in order to prevent accidental reinforcement of stealing behaviors. Alternative therapy is the replacement of a negative behavior with a more positive one. In this case, the PLACE command can be used to have your dog remain in a fixed location that is away from the food. Make sure to practice often, to reward good behavior with verbal praise and petting, and to have a leash on your dog for reinforcement during practice periods. Begin with short durations and then build up to the longer ones. Treat the dog on place so that the dog understands that if he or she remains in "place" the rewards come to them! If they leave, they get nothing at all. Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you. Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The

Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The American Kennel Club offers a Canine Good Citizen program designed to measure your dog's social manners out and about. The testing evaluates several things your dog has been trained for, such as walking on a loose leash, meet and greets with dogs and people, basic commands, distraction work, separation and grooming. Upon passing the test, the American Kennel Club issues a certification formally acknowledging him as a Canine Good Citizen. The test is required by most therapy dog programs, and is a great foundation if you are interested in doing this type of work with your dog. The ten items on the Canine Good Citizen test are: -Accepting a friendly stranger. -Sitting politely for petting. -Reaction to another dog. -Reaction to distraction. -Walking on a loose lead. -Walking through a crowd. -Appearance and grooming. -Sit and down on command, and staying in place. -Coming when called. -Supervised separation. Is Your Dog Ready? Make sure your dog can accomplish the objectives not only in your home, but also in different environments with new distractions. Group Classes are the perfect place for this. In fact, let the trainer know you are working towards this goal and we'll specifically help you with some of the requirements. If your dog performs well at group class, that is a great first step in earning the certificate. For all rules and regulations, visit The AKC Site.
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DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste

DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste o In the dog eat dog world of real estate, an area is only as good as its property values. And for areas overrun by smelly piles of dog poop, the feces factor could prove the weakest link to many homeowners. o The American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), estimates Americans own more pets than ever before, with 74.8 million dogs as of 2008. o Beyond your grass, it has been estimated that a single gram of dog feces can contain 23 million fecal coliform bacteria, which are known to cause cramps, diarrhea, intestinal illness, and serious kidney disorders in humans. EPA even estimates that two or three days worth of droppings from a population of about 100 dogs would contribute enough bacteria to temporarily close a bay, and all watershed areas within 20 miles of it, to swimming and shellfishing. o The EPA explains that the decay of your pet's waste actually creates nutrients for weeds and algae that grow in the waterways. As these organisms thrive on your dog's droppings, they overtake the water and limit the amount of light that can penetrate the water's surface. As a result, oxygen levels in the water decrease, and the fish and seafood we eat can be asphyxiated, EPA says. o A toxic cycle o If you aren't worried about your local waterways, you may be a bit more concerned about the impact of dog droppings on your home. The thing about persistently disposing of stools improperly (or not at all) is that it kicks off a harmful cycle that can affect your whole family - including your pet. o According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), pet droppings can contribute to diseases animals pass to humans, called zoonoses. When infected dog droppings are deposited on your lawn, the eggs of certain roundworms and other parasites can linger in your soil for years. Anyone who comes into contact with that soil - be it through gardening, playing sports, walking barefoot or any other means - runs the risk of coming into contact with those eggs; especially your dog. o Some of the hard-to-pronounce parasites your lawn could harbor include Cryptosporidium, Giardia, Salmonella, as well as hookworms, ringworms and tapeworms. Infections from these bugs often cause fever, muscle aches, headache, vomiting, and diarrhea in humans. Children are most susceptible, since they often play in the dirt and put things in their mouths or eyes. o In the end, it is best not to let sleeping dogs lie when it comes to issues of communal cleanliness. After all, proper sanitation could mean the difference between your yard being a beautiful oasis, or an area that has gone to the dogs. o Author: Dave Mason is the franchise owner of DoodyCalls, Charleston's Premier Pet Waste Removal Service
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TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a

TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a trick that reinforces patience with food! Try the following steps to train the Treat-On-The-Nose trick! Brush up on your sit-stay before you attempt this trick. Your dog has to sit perfectly still to hold the treat! Start with a sit-stay directly in front of you while you sit in a chair. Their head should be slightly over your lap. Put one hand under the dog's head and raise its nose to a position that is level to the floor. Place the treat on the flattest part of their nose. While you gently rest their muzzle in your hand, alternate praise with the phrase "Hold It!" in your command tone. After a few seconds, release him, praise him, and let him flip the treat off his nose and eat it. Repeat this process five to ten times per day for several days. As your dog begins to hold their own head steady, begin to remove your hands from their muzzle to let them do it alone. Some dogs will drop the treat on the floor and pick it up. Others will flip it into the air and catch it. If you desire the flip method and your dog is a "dropper", immediately command them to "leave it" if they drop it. Let them take it if they flip it. With consistency, this will condition the dog to flip it. If they do not catch it on the first flip, praise the effort with "good dog!" so that they do not give up. When they do catch it, praise vigorously!
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INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild

INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild wolves, and although they are now domesticated, dogs and wolves still share many basic instincts. As young pups, both wild and domestic dogs are instinctively clean. Even in the wild, wolves are very reluctant to relieve themselves in or near their den. THE DEN: Wild and domestic dogs will typically establish a den. A den is a small area, normally with one opening, in which they feel safe and secure. Dogs spend lots of time in their dens: they will eat, sleep, play and whelp their puppies in there. Thus, a healthy dog will not relieve himself in his den. SCHEDULE: Your training instructor will custom design a feeding schedule for your dog. This will help you coordinate your dogs need to relieve himself with your schedule. To succeed in housebreaking your dog, it is critical that you adhere to your schedule. RELIEF STATION: You must establish a “relief station” that your dog can easily recognize. For example, you can create a 20x20 area marked by pine cones. Or if you have a natural area you’d like the dog to use, you may designate that his relief station. CORRECTION: Dogs will only learn from your correction if you catch them “red- handed”. If you don’t catch them in the act, you’re wasting your time correcting them. WATCH OR CONFINEMENT WATCH: Since after-the-fact corrections are not effective, it is sometimes necessary to watch your dog at all times. WATCH makes this practical. Your dog will be on his leash and by your side . This allows you to move about the house, catching your dog in the act of relieving himself. You will then be able to correct him -- effectively -- on the spot. Another benefit of the WATCH mode is that in forcing your dog to constantly follow your movements, you are asserting your leadership and ensuring his loyalty. CONFINEMENT: Achieves two goals: first, it establishes a den for your dog. Second, it forces your dog to rely on his instinctive desire NOT to soil his den. If your dog relieves himself in the den, he’ll quickly find this distasteful. He will learn to wait until being released from confinement to take care of his business. If, however, you do find that your dog has relieved himself in his den, leave him with the mess for 15 minutes. You want this behavior to have negative consequences for your dog. WATCH/CONFINEMENT procedures will be effective only if your housebreaking schedule is followed! PLEASE remember: it is very important to fill out your housebreaking logs completely.
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Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption

Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption of feces, is common but disturbing habit in some dogs. The cause is unknown, but there are ways to deal with this behavior. Coprophagia is normal behavior under some circumstances. The bitch will normally eat the puppies feces and urine during their first few weeks of life. This keeps the den or whelping box clean. Some of the most common "treatments" for comprophagia are: sprinkling MSG on the dog's food 's putting pineapple or tomato juice or spinich in the dog's food crushing a Cert's breath mint and putting it in the food changing the dog's diet to a higher quality, more digestible food There are also some commercial products on the market Forbid Deter Both of these products have fermented vegetable extract as their main ingredient. This is for all intents and purposes the same as MSG. All the information that I have about effectiveness of any of these is anecdotal and through my own experience. I have found that MSG or a commercial product works best. Some dog owners are more comfortable using a commercial product even though the cost is much greater than plain MSG. Trial and error is the way that I have figured out how much MSG to put in the food. I have them start out with a teaspoonful and increase the amount until it has the desired effect of making the smell and taste of the feces undesirable. Ken Landa From juliejohnson - 12/4/07 9:17 AM We have also used canned pumpkin as an additive to the food - again, starting out with a teaspoon like Ken said (or even smaller if it is a small dog!). Something to be careful of with pumpkin is it can lead to diarrhea. Also, we've used Accent Spice, which I think is a commercial name for MSG if they are looking for it in the grocery store. Sometimes we have also told the clients who have cats to add these to the cat's food so the dog will stay out of the litterbox. Of course, we tell them to make sure to clear it with their vets first, especially if we know the animals have had prior digestive problems. Julie Johnson
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Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind

Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind by any eye contact or starring at the food any closer to the owners or their guest form closer then 6 feet. First and foremost you need to have the owners be sure to stop feeding from the table or their hands when are they are eating or snacking. Some owners may not be feeding the dog from the table but the dog still hopes and give the eyes. I like to use a water bottle for begging. This is great if the dog does not like the water bottle. I like the fact that to correction can be done from the other side of the room and the dog sees you administer the correct from the direction that the begging occurs. 1. Start with the water bottle primed in the sink and tune the stream to a thin stream line. Then while eating at the table the owner has the bottle ready and give the dog a squirt in the forehead for coming and closer to the table then 6 feet and or starring at the plates. 2. If the water bottle does not work then you can use a shake can or put the dog into a down stay or place command. Please add your comments.... Mark Thompson
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Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health - Side Affects of Improper Nutrition Dog Training Nutrition is the foundation for optimal health for pets as well as people. Pet food should be wholesome and nourishing. In order to be sure your pet is getting the proper nutrition, read the labels and check the ingredients. It is also very important to chose a pet food that uses high quality, "human grade" ingredients. This assures that the ingredients on the label are what is truly in the food. Dog food companies such as Wellness, Natura (makers of California Natural, Evo, Innova), and Nature's Variety all use these type ingredients as well as do continuous quality control during manufacturing. Some of the maladies that can result from improper nutrition are itchy red skin, dandruff, oily coat, runny eyes, chewing on paws, and red, sore ears. Imagine eating the same diet day after day for your entire life ... not very appetizing is it? Now, imagine that same diet lacking the vitamins and minerals needed for strong healthy bodies. Since we need good nutrition to stay healthy, it would not take long to become weak and sickly. As unhealthy as this sounds, this is what most of our pets experience their entire lives. As a result they are getting sicker and sicker. Substandard Ingredients in Commercial Dog Food Keep in mind that any ingredients that are not considered "human grade" are not subject to any FDA or other screening. Pet food has no federal inspection of ingredients. This means the ingredient list on most commercial dog foods is not truly accurate. Meat by-products: The "by-products" from the meat, but not including meat: lungs, spleen, kidneys, brains, liver, blood, bone, intestines, none of which are fit for human consumption. Meat meal: Meat meal can consist of just about any conceivable meat source. Even destroyed dogs and cats are rendered into meat meal for several name-brand animal foods. Beet Pulp: Beet pulp is the dried residue from the sugar beet. It is a source of sugar and fiber. However, it can seriously bind a dog's digestive tract. BHT, BHA: Chemical preservatives such as BHT and BHA have caused many concerns when tested on laboratory animals. Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative used to prevent spoilage in dog foods. It is a 1950's Monsanto product manufactured and sold as a chemical for making rubber! It is listed as a pesticide by the U.S. Department of agriculture. Unnecessary additions to dog food or treats: Corn: Corn, used as a cheap filler and protein source. Corn can cause common allergies such as skin disorders, increased chewing on paws or ear infections. Corn gluten meal: Corn gluten meal is by by-product after the manufacture of corn syrup or starch. Wheat or Wheat Gluten: Used as a cheap filler and protein source. Also a high allergen for skin disorders, and ear infections.
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Capture Desired Behavior Capturing a desired behavior: This

Capture Desired Behavior Capturing a desired behavior: This is a great way to help an owner gain some progress between practing commands formally. I use this with a dog that is especially difficult on Down for instance, like the 7 year old Sharpei I trained that was extremely resistant with the owner. We used the Down with Chair method, which is a form of capturing the behavior...and this method combined. Most of us know about Capturing Behavior. The main reason for adding this page is to remind you to inform the clien'ts to use it. We use it often for a dog that is housebreaking, but it can be helpful for other things as well. So, whenever a dog does a desired command such as the Down, say "Good Down" while showing the hand signal if the dog will not be aggressive to the hand signal. I know some dogs can get aggressive when they see or hear the command. If the dog gets stiff / looks aggressive when you give the command verbally, try using the hand signal only. You can click and treat a dog when capturing behavior. Advantages: This can be done even when the dog is just about to lie down in it's bed or crate and from a distance if necessary. Repetition of this is key, as with all commands. Christina Russell
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Alpha Lifts - This is a great way

Alpha Lifts - This is a great way to start getting puppy to trust and give in to the owners authority. This is not as dominate as an alpha rollover yet it is a smaller version of the concept of the dog losing some control over there freedom. The owner would stand over their dog facing the same direction of the dog. With one leg on each side of the dog. Then using both hands the owner reaches under the dogs chest and lifts the dogs front legs off the ground. Allowing the dogs front legs to very lightly touch the ground. This will tempt the dog to try and walk away, however they can not and learn to trust in the fact that the owner will release them once they no longer try to move. Then the owner can do the same thing with all four feet off the ground, same As above. This is a great exercise for owners to use to gain trust and slight dominance over their dogs. Mark Thompson
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