INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild

INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild wolves, and although they are now domesticated, dogs and wolves still share many basic instincts. As young pups, both wild and domestic dogs are instinctively clean. Even in the wild, wolves are very reluctant to relieve themselves in or near their den. THE DEN: Wild and domestic dogs will typically establish a den. A den is a small area, normally with one opening, in which they feel safe and secure. Dogs spend lots of time in their dens: they will eat, sleep, play and whelp their puppies in there. Thus, a healthy dog will not relieve himself in his den. SCHEDULE: Your training instructor will custom design a feeding schedule for your dog. This will help you coordinate your dogs need to relieve himself with your schedule. To succeed in housebreaking your dog, it is critical that you adhere to your schedule. RELIEF STATION: You must establish a “relief station” that your dog can easily recognize. For example, you can create a 20x20 area marked by pine cones. Or if you have a natural area you’d like the dog to use, you may designate that his relief station. CORRECTION: Dogs will only learn from your correction if you catch them “red- handed”. If you don’t catch them in the act, you’re wasting your time correcting them. WATCH OR CONFINEMENT WATCH: Since after-the-fact corrections are not effective, it is sometimes necessary to watch your dog at all times. WATCH makes this practical. Your dog will be on his leash and by your side . This allows you to move about the house, catching your dog in the act of relieving himself. You will then be able to correct him -- effectively -- on the spot. Another benefit of the WATCH mode is that in forcing your dog to constantly follow your movements, you are asserting your leadership and ensuring his loyalty. CONFINEMENT: Achieves two goals: first, it establishes a den for your dog. Second, it forces your dog to rely on his instinctive desire NOT to soil his den. If your dog relieves himself in the den, he’ll quickly find this distasteful. He will learn to wait until being released from confinement to take care of his business. If, however, you do find that your dog has relieved himself in his den, leave him with the mess for 15 minutes. You want this behavior to have negative consequences for your dog. WATCH/CONFINEMENT procedures will be effective only if your housebreaking schedule is followed! PLEASE remember: it is very important to fill out your housebreaking logs completely.
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Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and

Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive,

Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive, we begin to start preparing special holiday treats. Turkeys, cookies, candies? the list goes on. But what if you are not the only one in the house checking out the plates? Is your dog taking food from your counters, or even right off your plate? This issue is so common that it has a name: "Counter-Surfing". To resolve this issue, you have three choices: punishment, extinction, and alternatives. Punishment is not really a choice in this case. Punish too much and the dog will be scared to go anywhere near food. Punish too little or the wrong way and you will simply teach the dog not to "surf" with you around. Turn away for a second though and all bets are off. Punishment cannot be consistent if you are not around to see the behavior, so this just won't work. While you are frustrated, punishment may just be worth the reward that your dog receives by stealing your tasty food. Extinction is the process by which a behavior disappears due to the removal of its stimulus. In other words: no food, no surfing. Surfing is a behavior that is a conditioned response. Every time the dog steals food, they are rewarded. If you got a dollar every time you touched a doorknob in your home, you would probably touch that doorknob a lot. If that reward was removed, you would most likely eventually reduce the number of times you touched the knob to a more normal level or extinguish that behavior all together. Same with the dog's thievery. You must remove the food reward from the situation by eliminating all unattended food sources. There can be no plates left within reach, no food left on counters, and no crumbs left anywhere. Storage containers, high shelving, and immediate cleaning is required for this process to work. Even dirty dishes can be a source of food reward if left around where a dog can find them. If and when this is not possible, the dog must be removed from the environment where the food is located, in order to prevent accidental reinforcement of stealing behaviors. Alternative therapy is the replacement of a negative behavior with a more positive one. In this case, the PLACE command can be used to have your dog remain in a fixed location that is away from the food. Make sure to practice often, to reward good behavior with verbal praise and petting, and to have a leash on your dog for reinforcement during practice periods. Begin with short durations and then build up to the longer ones. Treat the dog on place so that the dog understands that if he or she remains in "place" the rewards come to them! If they leave, they get nothing at all. Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you. Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to COME, that’s his opportunity to run to the person he loves most. Therefore, the COME command is the most positive lesson your dog can learn. For this reason, we do not give corrections while teaching. Corrections are a part of enforcement, but in the initial stages of training, this command should be entirely positive and fun for your dog. That’s why you should not proceed with the formal COME command training until the dog associates COME with the games on the preceding page. c Put your dog in a SIT/STAY. Move 6-10 feet away, and face the dog. c With the leash in your hand, give the command “ __________, COME!" (command tone) Use your right hand to give him the hand signal: extend your arm straight out, palm facing the ground. Then, bend your arm sharply inward, palm facing the chest. c Holding the leash taut, guide the dog straight toward you, while simultaneously coaxing him with praise. Use pressure on the leash to encourage your dog to move quickly, but DON’T drag him. c As soon as your dog reaches you, give the command, "_________, SIT". As your right hand lifts his chin, simultaneously use your left hand to push his hips into a SIT. Remember to give your dog lots of praise! We recommend lifting his head, and rubbing under his chin while praising. This encourages excellent canine posture! Note: As you teach your dog the COME command, it’s very important that you never use the word “come” without executing the command. If he’s not on a leash, the command cannot be properly enforced. Your trainer will suggest alternate ways to call your dog during this very crucial training period. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health - Side Affects of Improper Nutrition Dog Training Nutrition is the foundation for optimal health for pets as well as people. Pet food should be wholesome and nourishing. In order to be sure your pet is getting the proper nutrition, read the labels and check the ingredients. It is also very important to chose a pet food that uses high quality, "human grade" ingredients. This assures that the ingredients on the label are what is truly in the food. Dog food companies such as Wellness, Natura (makers of California Natural, Evo, Innova), and Nature's Variety all use these type ingredients as well as do continuous quality control during manufacturing. Some of the maladies that can result from improper nutrition are itchy red skin, dandruff, oily coat, runny eyes, chewing on paws, and red, sore ears. Imagine eating the same diet day after day for your entire life ... not very appetizing is it? Now, imagine that same diet lacking the vitamins and minerals needed for strong healthy bodies. Since we need good nutrition to stay healthy, it would not take long to become weak and sickly. As unhealthy as this sounds, this is what most of our pets experience their entire lives. As a result they are getting sicker and sicker. Substandard Ingredients in Commercial Dog Food Keep in mind that any ingredients that are not considered "human grade" are not subject to any FDA or other screening. Pet food has no federal inspection of ingredients. This means the ingredient list on most commercial dog foods is not truly accurate. Meat by-products: The "by-products" from the meat, but not including meat: lungs, spleen, kidneys, brains, liver, blood, bone, intestines, none of which are fit for human consumption. Meat meal: Meat meal can consist of just about any conceivable meat source. Even destroyed dogs and cats are rendered into meat meal for several name-brand animal foods. Beet Pulp: Beet pulp is the dried residue from the sugar beet. It is a source of sugar and fiber. However, it can seriously bind a dog's digestive tract. BHT, BHA: Chemical preservatives such as BHT and BHA have caused many concerns when tested on laboratory animals. Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative used to prevent spoilage in dog foods. It is a 1950's Monsanto product manufactured and sold as a chemical for making rubber! It is listed as a pesticide by the U.S. Department of agriculture. Unnecessary additions to dog food or treats: Corn: Corn, used as a cheap filler and protein source. Corn can cause common allergies such as skin disorders, increased chewing on paws or ear infections. Corn gluten meal: Corn gluten meal is by by-product after the manufacture of corn syrup or starch. Wheat or Wheat Gluten: Used as a cheap filler and protein source. Also a high allergen for skin disorders, and ear infections.
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In Praise of the Mexican Hairless Dog

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health - Side Affects of Improper Nutrition Dog Training Nutrition is the foundation for optimal health for pets as well as people. Pet food should be wholesome and nourishing. In order to be sure your pet is getting the proper nutrition, read the labels and check the ingredients. It is also very important to chose a pet food that uses high quality, "human grade" ingredients. This assures that the ingredients on the label are what is truly in the food. Dog food companies such as Wellness, Natura (makers of California Natural, Evo, Innova), and Nature's Variety all use these type ingredients as well as do continuous quality control during manufacturing. Some of the maladies that can result from improper nutrition are itchy red skin, dandruff, oily coat, runny eyes, chewing on paws, and red, sore ears. Imagine eating the same diet day after day for your entire life ... not very appetizing is it? Now, imagine that same diet lacking the vitamins and minerals needed for strong healthy bodies. Since we need good nutrition to stay healthy, it would not take long to become weak and sickly. As unhealthy as this sounds, this is what most of our pets experience their entire lives. As a result they are getting sicker and sicker. Substandard Ingredients in Commercial Dog Food Keep in mind that any ingredients that are not considered "human grade" are not subject to any FDA or other screening. Pet food has no federal inspection of ingredients. This means the ingredient list on most commercial dog foods is not truly accurate. Meat by-products: The "by-products" from the meat, but not including meat: lungs, spleen, kidneys, brains, liver, blood, bone, intestines, none of which are fit for human consumption. Meat meal: Meat meal can consist of just about any conceivable meat source. Even destroyed dogs and cats are rendered into meat meal for several name-brand animal foods. Beet Pulp: Beet pulp is the dried residue from the sugar beet. It is a source of sugar and fiber. However, it can seriously bind a dog's digestive tract. BHT, BHA: Chemical preservatives such as BHT and BHA have caused many concerns when tested on laboratory animals. Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative used to prevent spoilage in dog foods. It is a 1950's Monsanto product manufactured and sold as a chemical for making rubber! It is listed as a pesticide by the U.S. Department of agriculture. Unnecessary additions to dog food or treats: Corn: Corn, used as a cheap filler and protein source. Corn can cause common allergies such as skin disorders, increased chewing on paws or ear infections. Corn gluten meal: Corn gluten meal is by by-product after the manufacture of corn syrup or starch. Wheat or Wheat Gluten: Used as a cheap filler and protein source. Also a high allergen for skin disorders, and ear infections.
In Praise of the Mexican Hairless Dog
A Xoloitzcuintli breed is displayed during competition at the 136th Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show in New York's Madison Square Garden, February 13, 2012, MIKE SEGAR / REUTERS Much like single people on Valentine's Day, the Xoloitzcuintli (aka

Westminster Dog Show: New dog breeds not shown much love the first night
The 136th annual Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show kicked off Monday night (Feb. 13) in New York City's Madison Square Garden. The groups shown during night one were the Hound group, the Toy group, the Non-Sporting Group and the Herding group.

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Alberta dogs win Westminster Kennel Club best-in-breed honours
EDMONTON — Among all of the beautiful Borzois, dazzling dachshunds and foxy terriers at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show, two Alberta pooches named after Hollywood stars stood out. Ch Mystic Ava Gardner, a fetching three-year-old Shetland sheepdog

Riverside dog wins Best of Breed at Westminster
RIVERSIDE — A local show dog was named Westminster Kennel Club’s top Ibizan hound on Monday. Elin and her handler Sarah Murphy won Best in Breed at the country’s oldest, most prestigious competition for dogs. The duo’s morning win

Vancouver Island dog wins best of breed at prestigious Westminster show
A Vancouver Island dog has been named Best of Breed at the prestigious 136th annual Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show in New York City. Judges at Madison Square Garden awarded Best of Breed to Mistytrails Double Stuf'd Oreo, or Reo for short, a nearly six

Dog Daycare Charlotte,NC

SUMMER SUN SAFETY Summertime is fun for dogs

SUMMER SUN SAFETY Summertime is fun for dogs and humans alike. It's a great time to travel and enjoy the great outdoors. Let us review a few safety tips to make sure that you and your dog can be ready for your adventures: Ride Right. Are you taking your dog for a ride in the car? Nothing compares to a happy dog's ears as he takes on the wind outside of a car window! Be careful though. Do not ever leave a dog alone in a parked vehicle especially in direct sun. Even when it's only mildly hot out, the inside of a car can become sweltering. Rolling down the windows is not enough relief. Heat stroke can happen to dogs, and just like in people can cause brain damage and even death. Symptoms include panting, drooling, rapid pulse and fever. Immediately immerse the dog in cool water and seek emergency veterinary assistance. Sunburns. Did you know that dogs get sunburns just like we do? Especially the dogs with shorter hair, lighter or pink skin, and pink noses are most susceptible. Try to limit your dog's exposure to days when the sun is less strong. Sunblock applied to ears and noses 30 minutes before exposure will help. Sink or Swim. Not all dogs know how to swim instinctively. Do not just drop them in a pool or throw them in the ocean to see how they do. Make sure that they choose their swimming adventure. Start in shallow water and call your dog's name. Maybe try tossing a toy to see if they will retrieve it. Better yet? If you have a friend with a dog who can swim, let them lead the way. Do not be surprised if both of your dog's legs don't paddle right away. Most dogs start with just their front legs. Stick close to help with the back end if they need it. Watch for tides, surfers, and other swimmers to be sure your dog has a calm introduction to the world of water. Consider getting a canine life preserver so that they can have the support while they learn. Always use preservers on boating adventures. They need them just like humans. Remember that swimming uses different muscles and can tire your animal quickly. Always keep your dog in reach so that you can help them if they need it. You are their best friend and lifeguard. Fancy Footwork. If your dog starts to walk awkwardly on the roads or concrete, consider the heat of the pavement. Their feet may literally be burning. Whenever possible, avoid walking your dog on the blacktop when it is hot to the touch. Walk them on the sidewalk, in the grass, or in the shade. Also, when starting to increase the speed, frequency, or change the terrain of your dog's walk, remember that they do not wear shoes. It may take them a while to build the calluses on their paws necessary to walk in these areas. If you're going hiking or onto surfaces where you would not be comfortable walking barefoot, consider your pet's feet. There are even sneakers available for animals that may have sensitive paws! Gear up the grooming. Make sure that you keep up with your dog's brushing and washing to ensure good health in the heat. This is when they shed more and get dirtier than most other times of the year. Don't forget to apply their flea/tick prevention and give them their heartworm preventatives each month as well. These are just a few of the considerations to be made during the summer. We wish you the safest of adventures and loads of fun this season!
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COME COMMAND Hide and Seek * Using two

COME COMMAND Hide and Seek * Using two people-play hide and seek-having one person hold the dog in the house or yard allow him to watch one of you walk away and hide within voice range. Once in hiding place give the command "________, come" (command tone) followed by, "good boy, come on boy, good boy, come on boy, good boy come on boy(Praise Tone) , _________, come" (command tone). When he reaches you, place your left hand over his hind quarters - And your right hand under his chin then gently rotate him into the sitting position......*remember, NO CORRECTION! Round Robin * Have several people stand in a large circle-with the dog on leash in the middle. One person at a time squats placing one knee on the ground, pats their knee saying "___________, come" (praise tone) While everyone else turns their back ; continue around circle until everyone has had a turn. Formal Come * Put your dog in a sit/stay while facing him from 6-10 feet away. * With the leash in your hand give the command "__________, come" (command tone), as you use your right hand to give him a hand signal; reach straight out in front of you with right hand palm down, then draw your hand toward your chest palm in. * Use the leash to guide him straight to you while coaxing him with praise. * Once he gets to you give the command, "_________, sit", then lift gently on leash as you lightly touch his hips, once he sits-lots of praise. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647, Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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MANAGING THE MUD So you are ready to

MANAGING THE MUD So you are ready to go back inside, but you aren't ready to mop the floors? What do you do if your dog has managed to get covered in mud? Even if it is just the paws, tracking mud into the house can make for a major cleaning project. Here is how to manage the mud tracking: Get doormats for each doorway to the outside. Make sure they look similar to one another. These mats will serve as a visual barrier to entry for your dog that, with your help and training, can show the dog just where to wait before coming inside. Pair each doormat with a towel for wiping down paws. Practice makes perfect. Make sure to gear up your daily practice of obedience training so that you can train your dog to apply their knowledge to the new season's activities. Sit or Stand Stay is the perfect command to replace the wiggle worm behaviors commonly associated with paw cleaning. Remember, consistency and repetitions create habits in both humans and canines alike. Make your trips outside an adventure within limits that are clear to the dog. Show them what you do and do not want them to do over and over again before expecting them to understand and do it on their own. A few weeks of chaperoning may be a lot of work, but it will pay off in years of trustworthiness and positive behavior in your dog. While we cannot help you teach your dog to mop the floors themselves, we are here if you have any questions on how to curb spring fever.
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COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to COME, that’s his opportunity to run to the person he loves most. Therefore, the COME command is the most positive lesson your dog can learn. For this reason, we do not give corrections while teaching. Corrections are a part of enforcement, but in the initial stages of training, this command should be entirely positive and fun for your dog. That’s why you should not proceed with the formal COME command training until the dog associates COME with the games on the preceding page. c Put your dog in a SIT/STAY. Move 6-10 feet away, and face the dog. c With the leash in your hand, give the command “ __________, COME!" (command tone) Use your right hand to give him the hand signal: extend your arm straight out, palm facing the ground. Then, bend your arm sharply inward, palm facing the chest. c Holding the leash taut, guide the dog straight toward you, while simultaneously coaxing him with praise. Use pressure on the leash to encourage your dog to move quickly, but DON’T drag him. c As soon as your dog reaches you, give the command, "_________, SIT". As your right hand lifts his chin, simultaneously use your left hand to push his hips into a SIT. Remember to give your dog lots of praise! We recommend lifting his head, and rubbing under his chin while praising. This encourages excellent canine posture! Note: As you teach your dog the COME command, it’s very important that you never use the word “come” without executing the command. If he’s not on a leash, the command cannot be properly enforced. Your trainer will suggest alternate ways to call your dog during this very crucial training period. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Monroe Dog Groomer|

When Your Dog Loves You Too Much... Separation

When Your Dog Loves You Too Much... Separation Anxiety is often misdiagnosed in the canine world. Sometimes it is really just boredom or the dog becoming adventurous when given the opportunity. If your dog seems to follow you and stick to you like glue, and/or if destruction is happening within the first 20 minutes you are away, then you are probably dealing with some form of separation anxiety. Here are some things that you can do to help: - Keep your comings and goings neutral! Don't make a big fuss at either time. - Practice leaving with your normal cues (pick up your keys, grab your purse, put on your work shoes, etc.), then don't leave. This will help desensitize your dog to your departures. - Give your dog a hobby while you are gone. Stuff a Kong, leave treats around the house, utilize a feeding tube, or anything that will get your dog up, moving and eating. A dog that is eating is not a stressed dog. - Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you, such as an old t-shirt that you recently slept in. - A good dog is a tired dog! Try to exercise your dog more both mentally and physically.
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LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching stand/stay your dog should have a complete understanding of sit/stay. * Begin with your dog in a sit/stay on your left side facing in the same direction you are. * Using your right hand reach across your body grasping the leash about 6” from your dog collar. * Step back and place your left hand (palm toward yourself) on the deep inside of your right thigh. * Then as you give the command “stand” pull forward with your right hand while using your left hand to lift the dogs hind quarter into the air. * Once your dog reaches the standing position give the command to “stay”, then step in front of your dog. * Keep in mind, most dogs will attempt to sit. If this should happen, move quickly, stepping forward with your left leg (putting your hand back inside your thigh), then lightly snap the leash toward you as you lift your dogs hind quarters into the the stand position, and say “NO !!” (correction tone) then say “stand”. (light command tone). * Continue to follow the above steps for seven full days before expecting the dog to stand on his own. * Consult your training instructor for the next steps. TRAINING GOAL:_________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647 Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|