DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts,

DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts, and dirty dogs: Digging can be a very destructive and expensive adventure for your dog to embark upon. First, you need to question why your dog is digging in the first place. Is it bored? We already spoke to the resolution of that issue in the above article. Second, do they dig and lay in the holes? Then your dog may be hot or cold and looking for some relief. Train your dog where to lay his head by finding a more suitable bed that satisfies their warmth or cooling requirements. Third and most tricky, is your dog trying to leave your yard by digging under a fence? To reverse this one, you will need to attach a long line to their collar and watch them. When you catch them in the act of digging, you need to correct them, while saying "NO!", and then replace their behavior with an obedience command. When you find holes, it is important to immediately refill them. Check to be sure that the dog has not buried anything in the hole to prevent them from re-digging the hole to retrieve their items. Do not allow your dog to take food, treats, or rawhides outside because this often can lead to an instinctive burying behavior to protect their leftovers. If the behaviors continue after consistent observing and training on your own, make sure to call us so that the behaviors do not become a solidified habit.
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Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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5 New Years Resolutions for your Dog 1.

5 New Years Resolutions for your Dog 1. Walk Your Dog - Making a goal to walk your dog everyday will help you and your pet get into better shape. By using a control walk, you will be reinforcing your dog's place in the family. 2. Obedience Training - You know what to do, but are you being consistent? Resolve to spend 5-10 minutes every other day brushing up on your dog's obedience skills. While you are at it, come to a few tune-up classes and really flex your alpha muscles. 3. Annual Exam - Just like people, dogs need to have an annual check-up to make sure that everything is working properly and that there is nothing going on beneath the surface. Since symptoms can go unnoticed, a visit to your veterinarian's office might be the key to catching something early. If your pet has not seen a veterinarian in the last year consider making an appointment for its physical exam. 4. Socialization - If your dog isn't given the opportunity to be around other dogs, then problems can arise. You might notice barking when you are out for a walk when they see another dog. This can escalate into something more, so it's always a good idea to allow your dog to socialize with other pets as much as possible. 5. Helping a Rescue Organization- What a great New Years Resolution! Rescue organizations are always in need of volunteers, food and blankets, or monetary contributions. You can celebrate your dog by giving to an animal welfare organization.
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FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of

FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of the holiday and very few other days of the year. They are big, beautiful, exciting, and loud. Remember, for your dog who has hearing ten times more sensitive than we do, the loud part can catch your dog unaware, disorient them, and create anxiety. In fact, often times fight or flight instincts kick in and dogs shelters will be inundated with dogs on the days following fireworks displays. While some dogs have little or no reaction, for others, fireworks can cause serious disturbances that can be emotionally scarring for them. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which one any individual dog is or how any event may affect your dog. Here are some guidelines to consider prior to the festivities: Bringing Your Dog With You May we suggest you reconsider bringing your dog with you on your fourth adventures? These displays are not made for dogs. Often the aerial display is accompanied by sparklers and amateur displays which are lower and less predictable. Flashes of light, loud explosions, and crowds make for a confused and anxious dog with nowhere to go. Further, do not leave your dog in your car while you enjoy the show. This only reduces the "trapped" feeling to the confines of your vehicle which can result in destruction, soiling, and injury from exertion of anxious energies. Remember, a scared dog in a crowd is a danger to both itself and the people around it. Leashes and collars are not infallible. Leaving Your Dog Behind If you leave your dog at home and fireworks are being displayed nearby, make sure that they are in a place that is indoors where they have the least likelihood of causing damage to your home or themselves. Crates are strongly recommended if your dog has crating experience. Turn on, and up, your radio or television to mask the sound of the fireworks. Close your blinds or curtains to mask the flashing lights. Take away your dog's favorite toy a day or two before the festivities, and return it in time for the event. This way, they can be distracted by something you know that will give them happiness. In Either case Regardless of your canine's location, some basic steps should be taken to ensure their safety. Make sure that their tags are up to date, including one with your contact information, in the event that their fight or flight instinct gives them wings. To be doubly sure, make sure your dog is micro chipped and that that information is also correct in the event of a collar failure. Let your dog do its business prior to time for the fireworks displays. Play with them more than usual to ensure that they are tired and therefore less likely to have the energy to expend with nervousness. If your dog does react negatively to the fireworks, remember not to coddle them. If you coddle or hold them during this time, it will feel exactly the same as when you praise them. In other words, you'll be telling them: "Good job being nervous! That's what you should be doing! Keep it up!". In contrast, light massage style petting, if your dog will let you, when practiced without pity or nervousness can help calm both of you.
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LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching stand/stay your dog should have a complete understanding of sit/stay. * Begin with your dog in a sit/stay on your left side facing in the same direction you are. * Using your right hand reach across your body grasping the leash about 6” from your dog collar. * Step back and place your left hand (palm toward yourself) on the deep inside of your right thigh. * Then as you give the command “stand” pull forward with your right hand while using your left hand to lift the dogs hind quarter into the air. * Once your dog reaches the standing position give the command to “stay”, then step in front of your dog. * Keep in mind, most dogs will attempt to sit. If this should happen, move quickly, stepping forward with your left leg (putting your hand back inside your thigh), then lightly snap the leash toward you as you lift your dogs hind quarters into the the stand position, and say “NO !!” (correction tone) then say “stand”. (light command tone). * Continue to follow the above steps for seven full days before expecting the dog to stand on his own. * Consult your training instructor for the next steps. TRAINING GOAL:_________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647 Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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Capture Desired Behavior Capturing a desired behavior: This

Capture Desired Behavior Capturing a desired behavior: This is a great way to help an owner gain some progress between practing commands formally. I use this with a dog that is especially difficult on Down for instance, like the 7 year old Sharpei I trained that was extremely resistant with the owner. We used the Down with Chair method, which is a form of capturing the behavior...and this method combined. Most of us know about Capturing Behavior. The main reason for adding this page is to remind you to inform the clien'ts to use it. We use it often for a dog that is housebreaking, but it can be helpful for other things as well. So, whenever a dog does a desired command such as the Down, say "Good Down" while showing the hand signal if the dog will not be aggressive to the hand signal. I know some dogs can get aggressive when they see or hear the command. If the dog gets stiff / looks aggressive when you give the command verbally, try using the hand signal only. You can click and treat a dog when capturing behavior. Advantages: This can be done even when the dog is just about to lie down in it's bed or crate and from a distance if necessary. Repetition of this is key, as with all commands. Christina Russell
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SIT/STAY COMMAND Begin with your dog on your

SIT/STAY COMMAND Begin with your dog on your left side, facing the same direction you are. Reach across your body with your right hand; grasp the leash in your right hand, holding it about 1 inch above the clasp. With your left hand grasp your dog�s hips gently. Using your left hand, rotate your dogs hips back, then down, into the sitting position, as you say �_________________ sit.� (Command Tone) Once your dog is in the sitting position, give the command �STAY�, as you show him/her the stay hand signal with a SNAP. (Palm of right hand) As you turn and face your dog, moving with your right foot first, begin to back away from him with a slack leash as you praise him: �Goooood boy!� When your dog gets up (and he will!) move quickly and SNAP the leash straight over his head as you say �NO!� (correction tone). Follow this ediately with �STAY�, (command tone) using the hand signal. Praise your dog both physically and verbally, while he/she remains in SIT/STAY. Your goal is to be able to circle your dog while he/she STAYS. Gently pull your dog toward you as you say �YOU�RE THROUGH!� (praise tone). Remember it is important to maintain patience and control; it is necessary for your dog to make mistakes so he can learn not to make them! TRAINING GOAL:______________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The

Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The American Kennel Club offers a Canine Good Citizen program designed to measure your dog's social manners out and about. The testing evaluates several things your dog has been trained for, such as walking on a loose leash, meet and greets with dogs and people, basic commands, distraction work, separation and grooming. Upon passing the test, the American Kennel Club issues a certification formally acknowledging him as a Canine Good Citizen. The test is required by most therapy dog programs, and is a great foundation if you are interested in doing this type of work with your dog. The ten items on the Canine Good Citizen test are: -Accepting a friendly stranger. -Sitting politely for petting. -Reaction to another dog. -Reaction to distraction. -Walking on a loose lead. -Walking through a crowd. -Appearance and grooming. -Sit and down on command, and staying in place. -Coming when called. -Supervised separation. Is Your Dog Ready? Make sure your dog can accomplish the objectives not only in your home, but also in different environments with new distractions. Group Classes are the perfect place for this. In fact, let the trainer know you are working towards this goal and we'll specifically help you with some of the requirements. If your dog performs well at group class, that is a great first step in earning the certificate. For all rules and regulations, visit The AKC Site.
Dog Training Gastonia,NC

Shon Mitchell
Owner: Dog Training In Your Home

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
Dog Boarding | Daycare | Training |Charlotte,NC

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season,

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season, when you are visiting your friends and family, you may be faced with the opportunity to meet a dog that you do not know. Here are some tips to help you have a healthy and happy experience by understanding the appropriate way to approach a new dog: Always ask an owner for permission to touch their dog prior to petting. Ask if the dog is friendly. Some dogs are not welcoming to guests. Some owners do not like their dog to interact with guests. You do not want to risk your personal safety or reward them for a behavior their owner dislikes. Watch a dog's body language. If their hair stands up, they stop moving or wagging their tail, they hold their breath, they crouch down to the ground, or they begin barking or lunging, simply do not touch them. They may be nervous and are better left alone. Never run up to a stray dog and pet them. You do not know how this dog responds to people, if the dog is injured, or if the dog is otherwise aggressive. It is best to let the dog come to you, if you decide to interact at all. Let them hear and smell you prior to interacting with them directly. Stand still and put your hand out for the dog to smell. Let them get comfortable with your scents and sounds prior to actual touching. Do not approach the dog face-to-face. Rather, position yourself beside the dog. A face-to-face meeting can become a threat to a dog that you may not mean to make. Do not touch the dog if you are nervous. The dog will know and it will make them nervous as well. There is no reason to pet a dog if you do not feel comfortable. Do not pet a dog on the head when you first meet them. A shoulder or back petting session is more appropriate. Many dogs get nervous and/or upset when they are pet on top of their heads, or when people reach over their heads to pet them. Do not stare a dog in the eye. While this is a show of confidence in the USA, it is a show of confrontation in the canine world. Gently look at the dogs ears, face, or chest, but try to avoid direct eye contact. If you become uncomfortable or are being attacked by a dog you have just met NEVER turn your back and run away. The dog will chase you. It will think you are playing a game or have become a prey animal. Instead, remain calm, stand still until the dog goes away, and/or guard your body with any personal items (purse, umbrella, briefcase, etc.) that you have with you. Do not flail your arms, scream, throw personal items, or wave your fingers at a dog. Excitement and nervousness begets excitement and nervousness. Loose and flailing items are more easily grabbed by a dog. Close your fists and hold your arms steady at your side or across your body to keep yourself in a safer situation. Pet the dog gently, slowly, with a flat hand, in one direction. When you do pet a dog you have not met before, remember to speak slowly and quietly in sweet tones. Watch your children and be sure to show them the appropriate ways to meet a dog. Remember, even if an owner says that a dog is friendly, you are a stranger to them. Earn their trust by respecting their space. This is especially true of puppies for whom everything is new, loud, and can become overwhelming.
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OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring,

OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring, we look forward to warmer weather and more time outside. For dog owners, many feel that this is a time that the dog can experience more freedom. If done correctly, this can be a great experience. If not done correctly, mischief and mayhem can ensue. Here are some helpful hints to make your spring less stressful: Boredom can lead to big problems. If you leave your dog outside without helping them to release their physical and mental energies beforehand, you may find that they will become creative. Their projects can range from a small hole to a knocking over your prized barbeque to tearing down or redecorating your deck and lawn furniture. Alone time outside does not replace walking and heeling practice. It is not an automatic relief of stored up energy, at least not in a consistently positive manner. A nap underneath a tree outside will only result when the dog is exhausted. Make sure to not put your dog in a position to express their creative energies in a way that would not make you proud. A watched dog is a better dog. Do not leave your dog in your yard unsupervised, especially if you expect them to behave. If regularly attended, the dog will understand that outside is just like inside: you are the leader and they need to listen accordingly. New sights, new sounds, looser dirt, small animals beginning their springtime frolic, and increased daily sunlight are all invitations for a grand canine adventure. If you would rather your dog not partake in these activities, you need to be consistent with your training. Remember, a long line (30 feet) can give your dog an increased area to play while remaining able to be consistent with your corrections. Even if your dog is reliably off leash trained, it may take a couple of days to remind them how to behave in their changed environment. Without a leash, this becomes much more difficult. Do not use a remote collar without proper training. Canine-proof your yard as much as possible. Too much time outdoors unattended can result in housebreaking issues. If a dog never has to ask to go outside, then it never will. Designate one area of the yard for bathroom activities, and make sure that they have enough time indoors to remember to hold it when they are not in their "rest" area. Dogs are creatures of habit. Do not assume that your dog will be happy simply because it is outside. Banishing them to the great outdoors while you are away can create stress. Many dogs would be happier to remain surrounded by the familiar sights and sounds indoors that can remind them of their place in your home especially if you have already proofed your dog for inside unattended time. If they are used to being in a crate, it is most likely relaxing for them to remain in their routine.
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Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
Charlotte Dog Training |



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Monroe Dog Groomer|

Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training,

Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training, we often hear that people simply do not have time to practice with their dogs. While setting aside time to spend one on one with your dog is ideal, and should be pursued whenever possible, we understand that sometimes life can be busy. We are, after all, human. Even though life is busy, your dog still needs repetition and consistency in order to develop the habits that you desire. Often people do not realize that the time spent with your dog, whether set aside or not, is time spent training. Why not integrate your practice into your daily routines so that you can make the most of your time and bond with your dog? There are lots of ways to do it. Here are just a few: SIT and DOWN: Sit and down commands should be practiced whenever you need your dog to stop moving and freeze into position. While challenging your dog to a long stay session during a set-aside practice time is one way to do it, another is having him or her practice her down and/or sit stays while you answer the door, read a magazine, or brush your teeth. Whenever your dog is moving around and you would rather them not be, replace the negative behavior with a positive one. PLACE: Working on Place can be easily accomplished while you watch television or check your email! Start with short place challenges during commercial breaks and then when your dog gets better at it, extend out to actual show segments. Put them on place while you start reading your email, see how many you can get through before your dog tries to get up! While snuggling with your dog during your downtime is often a relaxing time for many owners, this is a way to get in your practice so that when guests come, they can be just as relaxed. Don't forget, if you don't practice, your dog is not going to remember what to do when you need it to. WAITING : Even the simple acts of going through a doorway to take your dog out or feeding them are great opportunities for integrated practice. Have your dog do a sit/stay or a down/stay and wait at doorways. You should always go through first. Have them sit/stay or down/stay while you put down their food. Release them from their stays with a "you're through". This way they understand that you own the food and they are motivated to listen!
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Monroe Dog Groomer|

Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training,

Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training, we often hear that people simply do not have time to practice with their dogs. While setting aside time to spend one on one with your dog is ideal, and should be pursued whenever possible, we understand that sometimes life can be busy. We are, after all, human. Even though life is busy, your dog still needs repetition and consistency in order to develop the habits that you desire. Often people do not realize that the time spent with your dog, whether set aside or not, is time spent training. Why not integrate your practice into your daily routines so that you can make the most of your time and bond with your dog? There are lots of ways to do it. Here are just a few: SIT and DOWN: Sit and down commands should be practiced whenever you need your dog to stop moving and freeze into position. While challenging your dog to a long stay session during a set-aside practice time is one way to do it, another is having him or her practice her down and/or sit stays while you answer the door, read a magazine, or brush your teeth. Whenever your dog is moving around and you would rather them not be, replace the negative behavior with a positive one. PLACE: Working on Place can be easily accomplished while you watch television or check your email! Start with short place challenges during commercial breaks and then when your dog gets better at it, extend out to actual show segments. Put them on place while you start reading your email, see how many you can get through before your dog tries to get up! While snuggling with your dog during your downtime is often a relaxing time for many owners, this is a way to get in your practice so that when guests come, they can be just as relaxed. Don't forget, if you don't practice, your dog is not going to remember what to do when you need it to. WAITING : Even the simple acts of going through a doorway to take your dog out or feeding them are great opportunities for integrated practice. Have your dog do a sit/stay or a down/stay and wait at doorways. You should always go through first. Have them sit/stay or down/stay while you put down their food. Release them from their stays with a "you're through". This way they understand that you own the food and they are motivated to listen!
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption

Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption of feces, is common but disturbing habit in some dogs. The cause is unknown, but there are ways to deal with this behavior. Coprophagia is normal behavior under some circumstances. The bitch will normally eat the puppies feces and urine during their first few weeks of life. This keeps the den or whelping box clean. Some of the most common "treatments" for comprophagia are: sprinkling MSG on the dog's food 's putting pineapple or tomato juice or spinich in the dog's food crushing a Cert's breath mint and putting it in the food changing the dog's diet to a higher quality, more digestible food There are also some commercial products on the market Forbid Deter Both of these products have fermented vegetable extract as their main ingredient. This is for all intents and purposes the same as MSG. All the information that I have about effectiveness of any of these is anecdotal and through my own experience. I have found that MSG or a commercial product works best. Some dog owners are more comfortable using a commercial product even though the cost is much greater than plain MSG. Trial and error is the way that I have figured out how much MSG to put in the food. I have them start out with a teaspoonful and increase the amount until it has the desired effect of making the smell and taste of the feces undesirable. Ken Landa From juliejohnson - 12/4/07 9:17 AM We have also used canned pumpkin as an additive to the food - again, starting out with a teaspoon like Ken said (or even smaller if it is a small dog!). Something to be careful of with pumpkin is it can lead to diarrhea. Also, we've used Accent Spice, which I think is a commercial name for MSG if they are looking for it in the grocery store. Sometimes we have also told the clients who have cats to add these to the cat's food so the dog will stay out of the litterbox. Of course, we tell them to make sure to clear it with their vets first, especially if we know the animals have had prior digestive problems. Julie Johnson
Meet Mugly, the World's Ugliest Dog
A Chinese crested dog named Mugly won the World's Ugliest Dog contest.

Political dog tale duel
In the RidicuList, Anderson Cooper examines which candidate's dog tale will have a greater election impact.

Dog Daycare matthews,NC

DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste

DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste o In the dog eat dog world of real estate, an area is only as good as its property values. And for areas overrun by smelly piles of dog poop, the feces factor could prove the weakest link to many homeowners. o The American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), estimates Americans own more pets than ever before, with 74.8 million dogs as of 2008. o Beyond your grass, it has been estimated that a single gram of dog feces can contain 23 million fecal coliform bacteria, which are known to cause cramps, diarrhea, intestinal illness, and serious kidney disorders in humans. EPA even estimates that two or three days worth of droppings from a population of about 100 dogs would contribute enough bacteria to temporarily close a bay, and all watershed areas within 20 miles of it, to swimming and shellfishing. o The EPA explains that the decay of your pet's waste actually creates nutrients for weeds and algae that grow in the waterways. As these organisms thrive on your dog's droppings, they overtake the water and limit the amount of light that can penetrate the water's surface. As a result, oxygen levels in the water decrease, and the fish and seafood we eat can be asphyxiated, EPA says. o A toxic cycle o If you aren't worried about your local waterways, you may be a bit more concerned about the impact of dog droppings on your home. The thing about persistently disposing of stools improperly (or not at all) is that it kicks off a harmful cycle that can affect your whole family - including your pet. o According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), pet droppings can contribute to diseases animals pass to humans, called zoonoses. When infected dog droppings are deposited on your lawn, the eggs of certain roundworms and other parasites can linger in your soil for years. Anyone who comes into contact with that soil - be it through gardening, playing sports, walking barefoot or any other means - runs the risk of coming into contact with those eggs; especially your dog. o Some of the hard-to-pronounce parasites your lawn could harbor include Cryptosporidium, Giardia, Salmonella, as well as hookworms, ringworms and tapeworms. Infections from these bugs often cause fever, muscle aches, headache, vomiting, and diarrhea in humans. Children are most susceptible, since they often play in the dirt and put things in their mouths or eyes. o In the end, it is best not to let sleeping dogs lie when it comes to issues of communal cleanliness. After all, proper sanitation could mean the difference between your yard being a beautiful oasis, or an area that has gone to the dogs. o Author: Dave Mason is the franchise owner of DoodyCalls, Charleston's Premier Pet Waste Removal Service
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
Charlotte Dog Training |



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Monroe Dog Groomer|

COME COMMAND Hide and Seek * Using two

COME COMMAND Hide and Seek * Using two people-play hide and seek-having one person hold the dog in the house or yard allow him to watch one of you walk away and hide within voice range. Once in hiding place give the command "________, come" (command tone) followed by, "good boy, come on boy, good boy, come on boy, good boy come on boy(Praise Tone) , _________, come" (command tone). When he reaches you, place your left hand over his hind quarters - And your right hand under his chin then gently rotate him into the sitting position......*remember, NO CORRECTION! Round Robin * Have several people stand in a large circle-with the dog on leash in the middle. One person at a time squats placing one knee on the ground, pats their knee saying "___________, come" (praise tone) While everyone else turns their back ; continue around circle until everyone has had a turn. Formal Come * Put your dog in a sit/stay while facing him from 6-10 feet away. * With the leash in your hand give the command "__________, come" (command tone), as you use your right hand to give him a hand signal; reach straight out in front of you with right hand palm down, then draw your hand toward your chest palm in. * Use the leash to guide him straight to you while coaxing him with praise. * Once he gets to you give the command, "_________, sit", then lift gently on leash as you lightly touch his hips, once he sits-lots of praise. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647, Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching stand/stay your dog should have a complete understanding of sit/stay. * Begin with your dog in a sit/stay on your left side facing in the same direction you are. * Using your right hand reach across your body grasping the leash about 6” from your dog collar. * Step back and place your left hand (palm toward yourself) on the deep inside of your right thigh. * Then as you give the command “stand” pull forward with your right hand while using your left hand to lift the dogs hind quarter into the air. * Once your dog reaches the standing position give the command to “stay”, then step in front of your dog. * Keep in mind, most dogs will attempt to sit. If this should happen, move quickly, stepping forward with your left leg (putting your hand back inside your thigh), then lightly snap the leash toward you as you lift your dogs hind quarters into the the stand position, and say “NO !!” (correction tone) then say “stand”. (light command tone). * Continue to follow the above steps for seven full days before expecting the dog to stand on his own. * Consult your training instructor for the next steps. TRAINING GOAL:_________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647 Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health - Side Affects of Improper Nutrition Dog Training Nutrition is the foundation for optimal health for pets as well as people. Pet food should be wholesome and nourishing. In order to be sure your pet is getting the proper nutrition, read the labels and check the ingredients. It is also very important to chose a pet food that uses high quality, "human grade" ingredients. This assures that the ingredients on the label are what is truly in the food. Dog food companies such as Wellness, Natura (makers of California Natural, Evo, Innova), and Nature's Variety all use these type ingredients as well as do continuous quality control during manufacturing. Some of the maladies that can result from improper nutrition are itchy red skin, dandruff, oily coat, runny eyes, chewing on paws, and red, sore ears. Imagine eating the same diet day after day for your entire life ... not very appetizing is it? Now, imagine that same diet lacking the vitamins and minerals needed for strong healthy bodies. Since we need good nutrition to stay healthy, it would not take long to become weak and sickly. As unhealthy as this sounds, this is what most of our pets experience their entire lives. As a result they are getting sicker and sicker. Substandard Ingredients in Commercial Dog Food Keep in mind that any ingredients that are not considered "human grade" are not subject to any FDA or other screening. Pet food has no federal inspection of ingredients. This means the ingredient list on most commercial dog foods is not truly accurate. Meat by-products: The "by-products" from the meat, but not including meat: lungs, spleen, kidneys, brains, liver, blood, bone, intestines, none of which are fit for human consumption. Meat meal: Meat meal can consist of just about any conceivable meat source. Even destroyed dogs and cats are rendered into meat meal for several name-brand animal foods. Beet Pulp: Beet pulp is the dried residue from the sugar beet. It is a source of sugar and fiber. However, it can seriously bind a dog's digestive tract. BHT, BHA: Chemical preservatives such as BHT and BHA have caused many concerns when tested on laboratory animals. Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative used to prevent spoilage in dog foods. It is a 1950's Monsanto product manufactured and sold as a chemical for making rubber! It is listed as a pesticide by the U.S. Department of agriculture. Unnecessary additions to dog food or treats: Corn: Corn, used as a cheap filler and protein source. Corn can cause common allergies such as skin disorders, increased chewing on paws or ear infections. Corn gluten meal: Corn gluten meal is by by-product after the manufacture of corn syrup or starch. Wheat or Wheat Gluten: Used as a cheap filler and protein source. Also a high allergen for skin disorders, and ear infections.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Clicker Training 101 What is a clicker? A

Clicker Training 101 What is a clicker? A time marker device. That marks a behavior and promises a reward. Any behavior clicked and rewarded enough with increase in frequency. Capturing Behavior - This is were a dog does a behavior induced or on his own and the trainer/owner clicks when the behavior occurs and then rewards the dog with a treat. examples would be barking, scatching, stretching, Shaping Behavior - This is were the trainer take the desired goal and breaks it in to small approamations then clicks and rewards the small appromations and slowly requires the dog to move from step to the next as you gear towards the goal. Example: Teaching adog to toucha target stick with thier nose. First the dog must look at the stick...click and treat then the dog must look and turn his head in the direction fo the stick...click and treat, then the dog must look turn his head and step towards the treat...
Surprising service dogs
While some of these heroics are known, here are five things you probably didn't know about these working dogs.

Political dog tale duel
In the RidicuList, Anderson Cooper examines which candidate's dog tale will have a greater election impact.

Meet Mugly, the World's Ugliest Dog
A Chinese crested dog named Mugly won the World's Ugliest Dog contest.

Dog Boarding | Daycare | Training |Charlotte,NC

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health - Side Affects of Improper Nutrition Dog Training Nutrition is the foundation for optimal health for pets as well as people. Pet food should be wholesome and nourishing. In order to be sure your pet is getting the proper nutrition, read the labels and check the ingredients. It is also very important to chose a pet food that uses high quality, "human grade" ingredients. This assures that the ingredients on the label are what is truly in the food. Dog food companies such as Wellness, Natura (makers of California Natural, Evo, Innova), and Nature's Variety all use these type ingredients as well as do continuous quality control during manufacturing. Some of the maladies that can result from improper nutrition are itchy red skin, dandruff, oily coat, runny eyes, chewing on paws, and red, sore ears. Imagine eating the same diet day after day for your entire life ... not very appetizing is it? Now, imagine that same diet lacking the vitamins and minerals needed for strong healthy bodies. Since we need good nutrition to stay healthy, it would not take long to become weak and sickly. As unhealthy as this sounds, this is what most of our pets experience their entire lives. As a result they are getting sicker and sicker. Substandard Ingredients in Commercial Dog Food Keep in mind that any ingredients that are not considered "human grade" are not subject to any FDA or other screening. Pet food has no federal inspection of ingredients. This means the ingredient list on most commercial dog foods is not truly accurate. Meat by-products: The "by-products" from the meat, but not including meat: lungs, spleen, kidneys, brains, liver, blood, bone, intestines, none of which are fit for human consumption. Meat meal: Meat meal can consist of just about any conceivable meat source. Even destroyed dogs and cats are rendered into meat meal for several name-brand animal foods. Beet Pulp: Beet pulp is the dried residue from the sugar beet. It is a source of sugar and fiber. However, it can seriously bind a dog's digestive tract. BHT, BHA: Chemical preservatives such as BHT and BHA have caused many concerns when tested on laboratory animals. Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative used to prevent spoilage in dog foods. It is a 1950's Monsanto product manufactured and sold as a chemical for making rubber! It is listed as a pesticide by the U.S. Department of agriculture. Unnecessary additions to dog food or treats: Corn: Corn, used as a cheap filler and protein source. Corn can cause common allergies such as skin disorders, increased chewing on paws or ear infections. Corn gluten meal: Corn gluten meal is by by-product after the manufacture of corn syrup or starch. Wheat or Wheat Gluten: Used as a cheap filler and protein source. Also a high allergen for skin disorders, and ear infections.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season,

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season, when you are visiting your friends and family, you may be faced with the opportunity to meet a dog that you do not know. Here are some tips to help you have a healthy and happy experience by understanding the appropriate way to approach a new dog: Always ask an owner for permission to touch their dog prior to petting. Ask if the dog is friendly. Some dogs are not welcoming to guests. Some owners do not like their dog to interact with guests. You do not want to risk your personal safety or reward them for a behavior their owner dislikes. Watch a dog's body language. If their hair stands up, they stop moving or wagging their tail, they hold their breath, they crouch down to the ground, or they begin barking or lunging, simply do not touch them. They may be nervous and are better left alone. Never run up to a stray dog and pet them. You do not know how this dog responds to people, if the dog is injured, or if the dog is otherwise aggressive. It is best to let the dog come to you, if you decide to interact at all. Let them hear and smell you prior to interacting with them directly. Stand still and put your hand out for the dog to smell. Let them get comfortable with your scents and sounds prior to actual touching. Do not approach the dog face-to-face. Rather, position yourself beside the dog. A face-to-face meeting can become a threat to a dog that you may not mean to make. Do not touch the dog if you are nervous. The dog will know and it will make them nervous as well. There is no reason to pet a dog if you do not feel comfortable. Do not pet a dog on the head when you first meet them. A shoulder or back petting session is more appropriate. Many dogs get nervous and/or upset when they are pet on top of their heads, or when people reach over their heads to pet them. Do not stare a dog in the eye. While this is a show of confidence in the USA, it is a show of confrontation in the canine world. Gently look at the dogs ears, face, or chest, but try to avoid direct eye contact. If you become uncomfortable or are being attacked by a dog you have just met NEVER turn your back and run away. The dog will chase you. It will think you are playing a game or have become a prey animal. Instead, remain calm, stand still until the dog goes away, and/or guard your body with any personal items (purse, umbrella, briefcase, etc.) that you have with you. Do not flail your arms, scream, throw personal items, or wave your fingers at a dog. Excitement and nervousness begets excitement and nervousness. Loose and flailing items are more easily grabbed by a dog. Close your fists and hold your arms steady at your side or across your body to keep yourself in a safer situation. Pet the dog gently, slowly, with a flat hand, in one direction. When you do pet a dog you have not met before, remember to speak slowly and quietly in sweet tones. Watch your children and be sure to show them the appropriate ways to meet a dog. Remember, even if an owner says that a dog is friendly, you are a stranger to them. Earn their trust by respecting their space. This is especially true of puppies for whom everything is new, loud, and can become overwhelming.
Columbia Dog Training

Julie Davis
Dog Training In Your Home

BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal

BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal and you have invited over friends. You gather around the table and soak in the sights and smells of the prepared meal and look forward to spending your time together. Then you realize that you are not the only one who appreciates the event. Your dog has arrived and is staring, pawing, and whining in a full theatrical production hoping to be paid in food. Begging is not a reality that most dog owners enjoy, and is appreciated by fewer guests. What if your dog does not beg for food, but instead begs for your attention? Why do dogs beg at all? How do you make them stop? Dogs beg because they are either looking for food, rank, or attention. Dogs who beg for food generally get what they want. To resolve this type of beggar you need to be sure that your dog never receives food during human food times. This means that you can never reward your dog with a treat at the table or during food preparation. Put the scraps off to the side and give it to your dog during its regular feeding times, in their bowl, if you must, but never give it to them during human food events. Never means never. Dogs are persistent and even a 1% chance will be worth pursuing. You will lose ground if anyone feeds the dog during their begging periods. In the dog world, the order in which the animals eat is an indication of their rank within the pack. Therefore, sometimes begging is a challenge for position within the family. The most powerful dogs eat first and the lowest ranking dog eats last. When a dog gets rewarded for begging, they eat at the same time, or before someone else, and therefore move up the leadership ladder. The rightful position of a canine companion is below all of the family members. Make sure that your dog does not eat during or before anyone in the household. Feed the dog in its own bowl, away from the dinner table, after the meal to maintain the proper balance in your family's hierarchy. Dogs who beg for attention exhibit the same whining, crying, and pawing behaviors, but, instead of food, pursue interaction. In order to reverse these behaviors, you need to avoid giving your dog attention during these times. Whenever they begin to act out, ignore them completely. No eye contact, no verbal reactions, no touching. If you respond during their tantrum, the dog will achieve the attention it is desires. Negative attention is still attention. Resume interaction when the dog stops its negative behavior. The dog will realize that it is only positive behavior that receives their desired outcome. Overcome the possible guilt that can come from ignoring the begging by giving your dog some of your quality time when they are doing the right thing, so that they know that they do not need to beg in the first place.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health - Side Affects of Improper Nutrition Dog Training Nutrition is the foundation for optimal health for pets as well as people. Pet food should be wholesome and nourishing. In order to be sure your pet is getting the proper nutrition, read the labels and check the ingredients. It is also very important to chose a pet food that uses high quality, "human grade" ingredients. This assures that the ingredients on the label are what is truly in the food. Dog food companies such as Wellness, Natura (makers of California Natural, Evo, Innova), and Nature's Variety all use these type ingredients as well as do continuous quality control during manufacturing. Some of the maladies that can result from improper nutrition are itchy red skin, dandruff, oily coat, runny eyes, chewing on paws, and red, sore ears. Imagine eating the same diet day after day for your entire life ... not very appetizing is it? Now, imagine that same diet lacking the vitamins and minerals needed for strong healthy bodies. Since we need good nutrition to stay healthy, it would not take long to become weak and sickly. As unhealthy as this sounds, this is what most of our pets experience their entire lives. As a result they are getting sicker and sicker. Substandard Ingredients in Commercial Dog Food Keep in mind that any ingredients that are not considered "human grade" are not subject to any FDA or other screening. Pet food has no federal inspection of ingredients. This means the ingredient list on most commercial dog foods is not truly accurate. Meat by-products: The "by-products" from the meat, but not including meat: lungs, spleen, kidneys, brains, liver, blood, bone, intestines, none of which are fit for human consumption. Meat meal: Meat meal can consist of just about any conceivable meat source. Even destroyed dogs and cats are rendered into meat meal for several name-brand animal foods. Beet Pulp: Beet pulp is the dried residue from the sugar beet. It is a source of sugar and fiber. However, it can seriously bind a dog's digestive tract. BHT, BHA: Chemical preservatives such as BHT and BHA have caused many concerns when tested on laboratory animals. Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative used to prevent spoilage in dog foods. It is a 1950's Monsanto product manufactured and sold as a chemical for making rubber! It is listed as a pesticide by the U.S. Department of agriculture. Unnecessary additions to dog food or treats: Corn: Corn, used as a cheap filler and protein source. Corn can cause common allergies such as skin disorders, increased chewing on paws or ear infections. Corn gluten meal: Corn gluten meal is by by-product after the manufacture of corn syrup or starch. Wheat or Wheat Gluten: Used as a cheap filler and protein source. Also a high allergen for skin disorders, and ear infections.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


Monroe Dog Groomer|

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season,

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season, when you are visiting your friends and family, you may be faced with the opportunity to meet a dog that you do not know. Here are some tips to help you have a healthy and happy experience by understanding the appropriate way to approach a new dog: Always ask an owner for permission to touch their dog prior to petting. Ask if the dog is friendly. Some dogs are not welcoming to guests. Some owners do not like their dog to interact with guests. You do not want to risk your personal safety or reward them for a behavior their owner dislikes. Watch a dog's body language. If their hair stands up, they stop moving or wagging their tail, they hold their breath, they crouch down to the ground, or they begin barking or lunging, simply do not touch them. They may be nervous and are better left alone. Never run up to a stray dog and pet them. You do not know how this dog responds to people, if the dog is injured, or if the dog is otherwise aggressive. It is best to let the dog come to you, if you decide to interact at all. Let them hear and smell you prior to interacting with them directly. Stand still and put your hand out for the dog to smell. Let them get comfortable with your scents and sounds prior to actual touching. Do not approach the dog face-to-face. Rather, position yourself beside the dog. A face-to-face meeting can become a threat to a dog that you may not mean to make. Do not touch the dog if you are nervous. The dog will know and it will make them nervous as well. There is no reason to pet a dog if you do not feel comfortable. Do not pet a dog on the head when you first meet them. A shoulder or back petting session is more appropriate. Many dogs get nervous and/or upset when they are pet on top of their heads, or when people reach over their heads to pet them. Do not stare a dog in the eye. While this is a show of confidence in the USA, it is a show of confrontation in the canine world. Gently look at the dogs ears, face, or chest, but try to avoid direct eye contact. If you become uncomfortable or are being attacked by a dog you have just met NEVER turn your back and run away. The dog will chase you. It will think you are playing a game or have become a prey animal. Instead, remain calm, stand still until the dog goes away, and/or guard your body with any personal items (purse, umbrella, briefcase, etc.) that you have with you. Do not flail your arms, scream, throw personal items, or wave your fingers at a dog. Excitement and nervousness begets excitement and nervousness. Loose and flailing items are more easily grabbed by a dog. Close your fists and hold your arms steady at your side or across your body to keep yourself in a safer situation. Pet the dog gently, slowly, with a flat hand, in one direction. When you do pet a dog you have not met before, remember to speak slowly and quietly in sweet tones. Watch your children and be sure to show them the appropriate ways to meet a dog. Remember, even if an owner says that a dog is friendly, you are a stranger to them. Earn their trust by respecting their space. This is especially true of puppies for whom everything is new, loud, and can become overwhelming.
Charlotte Dog Training |



Charlotte Dog Daycare |


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DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts,

DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts, and dirty dogs: Digging can be a very destructive and expensive adventure for your dog to embark upon. First, you need to question why your dog is digging in the first place. Is it bored? We already spoke to the resolution of that issue in the above article. Second, do they dig and lay in the holes? Then your dog may be hot or cold and looking for some relief. Train your dog where to lay his head by finding a more suitable bed that satisfies their warmth or cooling requirements. Third and most tricky, is your dog trying to leave your yard by digging under a fence? To reverse this one, you will need to attach a long line to their collar and watch them. When you catch them in the act of digging, you need to correct them, while saying "NO!", and then replace their behavior with an obedience command. When you find holes, it is important to immediately refill them. Check to be sure that the dog has not buried anything in the hole to prevent them from re-digging the hole to retrieve their items. Do not allow your dog to take food, treats, or rawhides outside because this often can lead to an instinctive burying behavior to protect their leftovers. If the behaviors continue after consistent observing and training on your own, make sure to call us so that the behaviors do not become a solidified habit.
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Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The

Is Your Dog a Canine Good Citizen? The American Kennel Club offers a Canine Good Citizen program designed to measure your dog's social manners out and about. The testing evaluates several things your dog has been trained for, such as walking on a loose leash, meet and greets with dogs and people, basic commands, distraction work, separation and grooming. Upon passing the test, the American Kennel Club issues a certification formally acknowledging him as a Canine Good Citizen. The test is required by most therapy dog programs, and is a great foundation if you are interested in doing this type of work with your dog. The ten items on the Canine Good Citizen test are: -Accepting a friendly stranger. -Sitting politely for petting. -Reaction to another dog. -Reaction to distraction. -Walking on a loose lead. -Walking through a crowd. -Appearance and grooming. -Sit and down on command, and staying in place. -Coming when called. -Supervised separation. Is Your Dog Ready? Make sure your dog can accomplish the objectives not only in your home, but also in different environments with new distractions. Group Classes are the perfect place for this. In fact, let the trainer know you are working towards this goal and we'll specifically help you with some of the requirements. If your dog performs well at group class, that is a great first step in earning the certificate. For all rules and regulations, visit The AKC Site.
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Dog Boarding Matthews,NC

Dog Boarding Matthews,NC
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Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive,

Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive, we begin to start preparing special holiday treats. Turkeys, cookies, candies? the list goes on. But what if you are not the only one in the house checking out the plates? Is your dog taking food from your counters, or even right off your plate? This issue is so common that it has a name: "Counter-Surfing". To resolve this issue, you have three choices: punishment, extinction, and alternatives. Punishment is not really a choice in this case. Punish too much and the dog will be scared to go anywhere near food. Punish too little or the wrong way and you will simply teach the dog not to "surf" with you around. Turn away for a second though and all bets are off. Punishment cannot be consistent if you are not around to see the behavior, so this just won't work. While you are frustrated, punishment may just be worth the reward that your dog receives by stealing your tasty food. Extinction is the process by which a behavior disappears due to the removal of its stimulus. In other words: no food, no surfing. Surfing is a behavior that is a conditioned response. Every time the dog steals food, they are rewarded. If you got a dollar every time you touched a doorknob in your home, you would probably touch that doorknob a lot. If that reward was removed, you would most likely eventually reduce the number of times you touched the knob to a more normal level or extinguish that behavior all together. Same with the dog's thievery. You must remove the food reward from the situation by eliminating all unattended food sources. There can be no plates left within reach, no food left on counters, and no crumbs left anywhere. Storage containers, high shelving, and immediate cleaning is required for this process to work. Even dirty dishes can be a source of food reward if left around where a dog can find them. If and when this is not possible, the dog must be removed from the environment where the food is located, in order to prevent accidental reinforcement of stealing behaviors. Alternative therapy is the replacement of a negative behavior with a more positive one. In this case, the PLACE command can be used to have your dog remain in a fixed location that is away from the food. Make sure to practice often, to reward good behavior with verbal praise and petting, and to have a leash on your dog for reinforcement during practice periods. Begin with short durations and then build up to the longer ones. Treat the dog on place so that the dog understands that if he or she remains in "place" the rewards come to them! If they leave, they get nothing at all. Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you. Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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