TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a

TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a trick that reinforces patience with food! Try the following steps to train the Treat-On-The-Nose trick! Brush up on your sit-stay before you attempt this trick. Your dog has to sit perfectly still to hold the treat! Start with a sit-stay directly in front of you while you sit in a chair. Their head should be slightly over your lap. Put one hand under the dog's head and raise its nose to a position that is level to the floor. Place the treat on the flattest part of their nose. While you gently rest their muzzle in your hand, alternate praise with the phrase "Hold It!" in your command tone. After a few seconds, release him, praise him, and let him flip the treat off his nose and eat it. Repeat this process five to ten times per day for several days. As your dog begins to hold their own head steady, begin to remove your hands from their muzzle to let them do it alone. Some dogs will drop the treat on the floor and pick it up. Others will flip it into the air and catch it. If you desire the flip method and your dog is a "dropper", immediately command them to "leave it" if they drop it. Let them take it if they flip it. With consistency, this will condition the dog to flip it. If they do not catch it on the first flip, praise the effort with "good dog!" so that they do not give up. When they do catch it, praise vigorously!
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DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste

DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste o In the dog eat dog world of real estate, an area is only as good as its property values. And for areas overrun by smelly piles of dog poop, the feces factor could prove the weakest link to many homeowners. o The American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), estimates Americans own more pets than ever before, with 74.8 million dogs as of 2008. o Beyond your grass, it has been estimated that a single gram of dog feces can contain 23 million fecal coliform bacteria, which are known to cause cramps, diarrhea, intestinal illness, and serious kidney disorders in humans. EPA even estimates that two or three days worth of droppings from a population of about 100 dogs would contribute enough bacteria to temporarily close a bay, and all watershed areas within 20 miles of it, to swimming and shellfishing. o The EPA explains that the decay of your pet's waste actually creates nutrients for weeds and algae that grow in the waterways. As these organisms thrive on your dog's droppings, they overtake the water and limit the amount of light that can penetrate the water's surface. As a result, oxygen levels in the water decrease, and the fish and seafood we eat can be asphyxiated, EPA says. o A toxic cycle o If you aren't worried about your local waterways, you may be a bit more concerned about the impact of dog droppings on your home. The thing about persistently disposing of stools improperly (or not at all) is that it kicks off a harmful cycle that can affect your whole family - including your pet. o According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), pet droppings can contribute to diseases animals pass to humans, called zoonoses. When infected dog droppings are deposited on your lawn, the eggs of certain roundworms and other parasites can linger in your soil for years. Anyone who comes into contact with that soil - be it through gardening, playing sports, walking barefoot or any other means - runs the risk of coming into contact with those eggs; especially your dog. o Some of the hard-to-pronounce parasites your lawn could harbor include Cryptosporidium, Giardia, Salmonella, as well as hookworms, ringworms and tapeworms. Infections from these bugs often cause fever, muscle aches, headache, vomiting, and diarrhea in humans. Children are most susceptible, since they often play in the dirt and put things in their mouths or eyes. o In the end, it is best not to let sleeping dogs lie when it comes to issues of communal cleanliness. After all, proper sanitation could mean the difference between your yard being a beautiful oasis, or an area that has gone to the dogs. o Author: Dave Mason is the franchise owner of DoodyCalls, Charleston's Premier Pet Waste Removal Service
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TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a

TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a trick that reinforces patience with food! Try the following steps to train the Treat-On-The-Nose trick! Brush up on your sit-stay before you attempt this trick. Your dog has to sit perfectly still to hold the treat! Start with a sit-stay directly in front of you while you sit in a chair. Their head should be slightly over your lap. Put one hand under the dog's head and raise its nose to a position that is level to the floor. Place the treat on the flattest part of their nose. While you gently rest their muzzle in your hand, alternate praise with the phrase "Hold It!" in your command tone. After a few seconds, release him, praise him, and let him flip the treat off his nose and eat it. Repeat this process five to ten times per day for several days. As your dog begins to hold their own head steady, begin to remove your hands from their muzzle to let them do it alone. Some dogs will drop the treat on the floor and pick it up. Others will flip it into the air and catch it. If you desire the flip method and your dog is a "dropper", immediately command them to "leave it" if they drop it. Let them take it if they flip it. With consistency, this will condition the dog to flip it. If they do not catch it on the first flip, praise the effort with "good dog!" so that they do not give up. When they do catch it, praise vigorously!
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Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
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Clicker Training 101 What is a clicker? A

Clicker Training 101 What is a clicker? A time marker device. That marks a behavior and promises a reward. Any behavior clicked and rewarded enough with increase in frequency. Capturing Behavior - This is were a dog does a behavior induced or on his own and the trainer/owner clicks when the behavior occurs and then rewards the dog with a treat. examples would be barking, scatching, stretching, Shaping Behavior - This is were the trainer take the desired goal and breaks it in to small approamations then clicks and rewards the small appromations and slowly requires the dog to move from step to the next as you gear towards the goal. Example: Teaching adog to toucha target stick with thier nose. First the dog must look at the stick...click and treat then the dog must look and turn his head in the direction fo the stick...click and treat, then the dog must look turn his head and step towards the treat...
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Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat?

Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat? You bet! There are many treats out there that you can purchase that are great for your dog. It is fun to see them excited for their gift, and it is a great way to bond with your dog when used correctly. Unfortunately, there are lots of foods out there that are NOT good for your dog and should be avoided. Lucky for you, we have made the following list of "do" and "do not" treats to help you with your choices and make sure that positive experiences win out over the negative alternatives. DO: Many companies offer treats that are free of wheat, corn, soy, and artificial ingredients. These are the best choices you can make for your dog. Try using sweet potato rawhides instead of animal rawhides to offer your dog a treat that is easier on their stomach and less likely to create tension than regular rawhide options. Some of the companies that make treats that we often use are Zuke's, Cloud Star Buddy Biscuits, Newman's Own Organics, and Sojos Good Dog Treats. DO NOT: Canine metabolic systems are NOT the same as human ones. For this reason, there are many foods that should be left out of all canine diets even as treats. The following list offers some of the grocery items that should be avoided: alcohol, baby food, bones from fish/poultry, cat food, chocolate and other caffeine products, citrus, fat trimmings, grapes, raisins, hops, human vitamins, liver (in large quantities), macadamia nuts, dairy, spoiled foods, mushrooms, onions, garlic, fruit pits, potato, tomato, rhubarb, raw eggs, raw fish, salt, string, sugar, scraps, tobacco and yeast. While this is an incomplete list, these are commonly questioned items that are not approved for animal consumption. For more information visit PetEducation.Com . If you ever have a question about whether or not an ingredient is safe for your dog, we always suggest calling to check with your veterinarian. HOW: When used correctly, treats are a great way to reinforce training. When overused, treats can cause both treat dependency and obesity. Use treats according to your trainer's instruction, and with moderation. Reserve the use of treats for exceptional situations, and use your praise as rewards during everyday situations. Remember, in the dog world, praise without effort is never rewarded. Therefore, do not give your dog a treat without reason. Make sure that your dog has been issued a challenge and has completed it. These challenges could include stays with distraction and self control around strangers. Your dog will be proud of itself for a job well done and will understand the treat is a reward. This style of treating will show the dog you're proud of them for pleasing you.
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Charlotte Dog Training | Charlotte Dog Daycare |

Charlotte Dog Training |
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JOHN FRARY: Political animals: We're talking dogs, not donkeys or elephants - Morning Sentinel

5 New Years Resolutions for your Dog 1. Walk Your Dog - Making a goal to walk your dog everyday will help you and your pet get into better shape. By using a control walk, you will be reinforcing your dog's place in the family. 2. Obedience Training - You know what to do, but are you being consistent? Resolve to spend 5-10 minutes every other day brushing up on your dog's obedience skills. While you are at it, come to a few tune-up classes and really flex your alpha muscles. 3. Annual Exam - Just like people, dogs need to have an annual check-up to make sure that everything is working properly and that there is nothing going on beneath the surface. Since symptoms can go unnoticed, a visit to your veterinarian's office might be the key to catching something early. If your pet has not seen a veterinarian in the last year consider making an appointment for its physical exam. 4. Socialization - If your dog isn't given the opportunity to be around other dogs, then problems can arise. You might notice barking when you are out for a walk when they see another dog. This can escalate into something more, so it's always a good idea to allow your dog to socialize with other pets as much as possible. 5. Helping a Rescue Organization- What a great New Years Resolution! Rescue organizations are always in need of volunteers, food and blankets, or monetary contributions. You can celebrate your dog by giving to an animal welfare organization.
JOHN FRARY: Political animals: We're talking dogs, not donkeys or elephants - Morning Sentinel

Morning Sentinel

JOHN FRARY: Political animals: We're talking dogs, not donkeys or elephants Morning Sentinel We know that Franklin Roosevelt's dog was named Fala; Nixon had a dog named Checkers; Jimmy Carter had Grits; George HW Bush had Millie; George W. Bush had Barney and Miss Beazley; Bill Clinton had Buddy; and Barack Obama has Bo. and more »

The Obama referendum - Chicago Tribune

Chicago Tribune

The Obama referendum Chicago Tribune ... yearlong campaign cycle: Obama, yes or no. Vote. We wish the White House understood that Americans won't make their choice because of Bain Capital, or Romneycare in Massachusetts, or whether the Republican nominee transported his dog atop his car. and more »

Chattanooga Dog Training

Dee Bass
Dog Training In Your Home

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
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A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season,

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season, when you are visiting your friends and family, you may be faced with the opportunity to meet a dog that you do not know. Here are some tips to help you have a healthy and happy experience by understanding the appropriate way to approach a new dog: Always ask an owner for permission to touch their dog prior to petting. Ask if the dog is friendly. Some dogs are not welcoming to guests. Some owners do not like their dog to interact with guests. You do not want to risk your personal safety or reward them for a behavior their owner dislikes. Watch a dog's body language. If their hair stands up, they stop moving or wagging their tail, they hold their breath, they crouch down to the ground, or they begin barking or lunging, simply do not touch them. They may be nervous and are better left alone. Never run up to a stray dog and pet them. You do not know how this dog responds to people, if the dog is injured, or if the dog is otherwise aggressive. It is best to let the dog come to you, if you decide to interact at all. Let them hear and smell you prior to interacting with them directly. Stand still and put your hand out for the dog to smell. Let them get comfortable with your scents and sounds prior to actual touching. Do not approach the dog face-to-face. Rather, position yourself beside the dog. A face-to-face meeting can become a threat to a dog that you may not mean to make. Do not touch the dog if you are nervous. The dog will know and it will make them nervous as well. There is no reason to pet a dog if you do not feel comfortable. Do not pet a dog on the head when you first meet them. A shoulder or back petting session is more appropriate. Many dogs get nervous and/or upset when they are pet on top of their heads, or when people reach over their heads to pet them. Do not stare a dog in the eye. While this is a show of confidence in the USA, it is a show of confrontation in the canine world. Gently look at the dogs ears, face, or chest, but try to avoid direct eye contact. If you become uncomfortable or are being attacked by a dog you have just met NEVER turn your back and run away. The dog will chase you. It will think you are playing a game or have become a prey animal. Instead, remain calm, stand still until the dog goes away, and/or guard your body with any personal items (purse, umbrella, briefcase, etc.) that you have with you. Do not flail your arms, scream, throw personal items, or wave your fingers at a dog. Excitement and nervousness begets excitement and nervousness. Loose and flailing items are more easily grabbed by a dog. Close your fists and hold your arms steady at your side or across your body to keep yourself in a safer situation. Pet the dog gently, slowly, with a flat hand, in one direction. When you do pet a dog you have not met before, remember to speak slowly and quietly in sweet tones. Watch your children and be sure to show them the appropriate ways to meet a dog. Remember, even if an owner says that a dog is friendly, you are a stranger to them. Earn their trust by respecting their space. This is especially true of puppies for whom everything is new, loud, and can become overwhelming.
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Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption

Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption of feces, is common but disturbing habit in some dogs. The cause is unknown, but there are ways to deal with this behavior. Coprophagia is normal behavior under some circumstances. The bitch will normally eat the puppies feces and urine during their first few weeks of life. This keeps the den or whelping box clean. Some of the most common "treatments" for comprophagia are: sprinkling MSG on the dog's food 's putting pineapple or tomato juice or spinich in the dog's food crushing a Cert's breath mint and putting it in the food changing the dog's diet to a higher quality, more digestible food There are also some commercial products on the market Forbid Deter Both of these products have fermented vegetable extract as their main ingredient. This is for all intents and purposes the same as MSG. All the information that I have about effectiveness of any of these is anecdotal and through my own experience. I have found that MSG or a commercial product works best. Some dog owners are more comfortable using a commercial product even though the cost is much greater than plain MSG. Trial and error is the way that I have figured out how much MSG to put in the food. I have them start out with a teaspoonful and increase the amount until it has the desired effect of making the smell and taste of the feces undesirable. Ken Landa From juliejohnson - 12/4/07 9:17 AM We have also used canned pumpkin as an additive to the food - again, starting out with a teaspoon like Ken said (or even smaller if it is a small dog!). Something to be careful of with pumpkin is it can lead to diarrhea. Also, we've used Accent Spice, which I think is a commercial name for MSG if they are looking for it in the grocery store. Sometimes we have also told the clients who have cats to add these to the cat's food so the dog will stay out of the litterbox. Of course, we tell them to make sure to clear it with their vets first, especially if we know the animals have had prior digestive problems. Julie Johnson
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COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to COME, that’s his opportunity to run to the person he loves most. Therefore, the COME command is the most positive lesson your dog can learn. For this reason, we do not give corrections while teaching. Corrections are a part of enforcement, but in the initial stages of training, this command should be entirely positive and fun for your dog. That’s why you should not proceed with the formal COME command training until the dog associates COME with the games on the preceding page. c Put your dog in a SIT/STAY. Move 6-10 feet away, and face the dog. c With the leash in your hand, give the command “ __________, COME!" (command tone) Use your right hand to give him the hand signal: extend your arm straight out, palm facing the ground. Then, bend your arm sharply inward, palm facing the chest. c Holding the leash taut, guide the dog straight toward you, while simultaneously coaxing him with praise. Use pressure on the leash to encourage your dog to move quickly, but DON’T drag him. c As soon as your dog reaches you, give the command, "_________, SIT". As your right hand lifts his chin, simultaneously use your left hand to push his hips into a SIT. Remember to give your dog lots of praise! We recommend lifting his head, and rubbing under his chin while praising. This encourages excellent canine posture! Note: As you teach your dog the COME command, it’s very important that you never use the word “come” without executing the command. If he’s not on a leash, the command cannot be properly enforced. Your trainer will suggest alternate ways to call your dog during this very crucial training period. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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