BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal

BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal and you have invited over friends. You gather around the table and soak in the sights and smells of the prepared meal and look forward to spending your time together. Then you realize that you are not the only one who appreciates the event. Your dog has arrived and is staring, pawing, and whining in a full theatrical production hoping to be paid in food. Begging is not a reality that most dog owners enjoy, and is appreciated by fewer guests. What if your dog does not beg for food, but instead begs for your attention? Why do dogs beg at all? How do you make them stop? Dogs beg because they are either looking for food, rank, or attention. Dogs who beg for food generally get what they want. To resolve this type of beggar you need to be sure that your dog never receives food during human food times. This means that you can never reward your dog with a treat at the table or during food preparation. Put the scraps off to the side and give it to your dog during its regular feeding times, in their bowl, if you must, but never give it to them during human food events. Never means never. Dogs are persistent and even a 1% chance will be worth pursuing. You will lose ground if anyone feeds the dog during their begging periods. In the dog world, the order in which the animals eat is an indication of their rank within the pack. Therefore, sometimes begging is a challenge for position within the family. The most powerful dogs eat first and the lowest ranking dog eats last. When a dog gets rewarded for begging, they eat at the same time, or before someone else, and therefore move up the leadership ladder. The rightful position of a canine companion is below all of the family members. Make sure that your dog does not eat during or before anyone in the household. Feed the dog in its own bowl, away from the dinner table, after the meal to maintain the proper balance in your family's hierarchy. Dogs who beg for attention exhibit the same whining, crying, and pawing behaviors, but, instead of food, pursue interaction. In order to reverse these behaviors, you need to avoid giving your dog attention during these times. Whenever they begin to act out, ignore them completely. No eye contact, no verbal reactions, no touching. If you respond during their tantrum, the dog will achieve the attention it is desires. Negative attention is still attention. Resume interaction when the dog stops its negative behavior. The dog will realize that it is only positive behavior that receives their desired outcome. Overcome the possible guilt that can come from ignoring the begging by giving your dog some of your quality time when they are doing the right thing, so that they know that they do not need to beg in the first place.
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Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind

Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind by any eye contact or starring at the food any closer to the owners or their guest form closer then 6 feet. First and foremost you need to have the owners be sure to stop feeding from the table or their hands when are they are eating or snacking. Some owners may not be feeding the dog from the table but the dog still hopes and give the eyes. I like to use a water bottle for begging. This is great if the dog does not like the water bottle. I like the fact that to correction can be done from the other side of the room and the dog sees you administer the correct from the direction that the begging occurs. 1. Start with the water bottle primed in the sink and tune the stream to a thin stream line. Then while eating at the table the owner has the bottle ready and give the dog a squirt in the forehead for coming and closer to the table then 6 feet and or starring at the plates. 2. If the water bottle does not work then you can use a shake can or put the dog into a down stay or place command. Please add your comments.... Mark Thompson
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Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
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Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat?

Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat? You bet! There are many treats out there that you can purchase that are great for your dog. It is fun to see them excited for their gift, and it is a great way to bond with your dog when used correctly. Unfortunately, there are lots of foods out there that are NOT good for your dog and should be avoided. Lucky for you, we have made the following list of "do" and "do not" treats to help you with your choices and make sure that positive experiences win out over the negative alternatives. DO: Many companies offer treats that are free of wheat, corn, soy, and artificial ingredients. These are the best choices you can make for your dog. Try using sweet potato rawhides instead of animal rawhides to offer your dog a treat that is easier on their stomach and less likely to create tension than regular rawhide options. Some of the companies that make treats that we often use are Zuke's, Cloud Star Buddy Biscuits, Newman's Own Organics, and Sojos Good Dog Treats. DO NOT: Canine metabolic systems are NOT the same as human ones. For this reason, there are many foods that should be left out of all canine diets even as treats. The following list offers some of the grocery items that should be avoided: alcohol, baby food, bones from fish/poultry, cat food, chocolate and other caffeine products, citrus, fat trimmings, grapes, raisins, hops, human vitamins, liver (in large quantities), macadamia nuts, dairy, spoiled foods, mushrooms, onions, garlic, fruit pits, potato, tomato, rhubarb, raw eggs, raw fish, salt, string, sugar, scraps, tobacco and yeast. While this is an incomplete list, these are commonly questioned items that are not approved for animal consumption. For more information visit PetEducation.Com . If you ever have a question about whether or not an ingredient is safe for your dog, we always suggest calling to check with your veterinarian. HOW: When used correctly, treats are a great way to reinforce training. When overused, treats can cause both treat dependency and obesity. Use treats according to your trainer's instruction, and with moderation. Reserve the use of treats for exceptional situations, and use your praise as rewards during everyday situations. Remember, in the dog world, praise without effort is never rewarded. Therefore, do not give your dog a treat without reason. Make sure that your dog has been issued a challenge and has completed it. These challenges could include stays with distraction and self control around strangers. Your dog will be proud of itself for a job well done and will understand the treat is a reward. This style of treating will show the dog you're proud of them for pleasing you.
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Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat?

Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat? You bet! There are many treats out there that you can purchase that are great for your dog. It is fun to see them excited for their gift, and it is a great way to bond with your dog when used correctly. Unfortunately, there are lots of foods out there that are NOT good for your dog and should be avoided. Lucky for you, we have made the following list of "do" and "do not" treats to help you with your choices and make sure that positive experiences win out over the negative alternatives. DO: Many companies offer treats that are free of wheat, corn, soy, and artificial ingredients. These are the best choices you can make for your dog. Try using sweet potato rawhides instead of animal rawhides to offer your dog a treat that is easier on their stomach and less likely to create tension than regular rawhide options. Some of the companies that make treats that we often use are Zuke's, Cloud Star Buddy Biscuits, Newman's Own Organics, and Sojos Good Dog Treats. DO NOT: Canine metabolic systems are NOT the same as human ones. For this reason, there are many foods that should be left out of all canine diets even as treats. The following list offers some of the grocery items that should be avoided: alcohol, baby food, bones from fish/poultry, cat food, chocolate and other caffeine products, citrus, fat trimmings, grapes, raisins, hops, human vitamins, liver (in large quantities), macadamia nuts, dairy, spoiled foods, mushrooms, onions, garlic, fruit pits, potato, tomato, rhubarb, raw eggs, raw fish, salt, string, sugar, scraps, tobacco and yeast. While this is an incomplete list, these are commonly questioned items that are not approved for animal consumption. For more information visit PetEducation.Com . If you ever have a question about whether or not an ingredient is safe for your dog, we always suggest calling to check with your veterinarian. HOW: When used correctly, treats are a great way to reinforce training. When overused, treats can cause both treat dependency and obesity. Use treats according to your trainer's instruction, and with moderation. Reserve the use of treats for exceptional situations, and use your praise as rewards during everyday situations. Remember, in the dog world, praise without effort is never rewarded. Therefore, do not give your dog a treat without reason. Make sure that your dog has been issued a challenge and has completed it. These challenges could include stays with distraction and self control around strangers. Your dog will be proud of itself for a job well done and will understand the treat is a reward. This style of treating will show the dog you're proud of them for pleasing you.
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Capture Desired Behavior Capturing a desired behavior: This

Capture Desired Behavior Capturing a desired behavior: This is a great way to help an owner gain some progress between practing commands formally. I use this with a dog that is especially difficult on Down for instance, like the 7 year old Sharpei I trained that was extremely resistant with the owner. We used the Down with Chair method, which is a form of capturing the behavior...and this method combined. Most of us know about Capturing Behavior. The main reason for adding this page is to remind you to inform the clien'ts to use it. We use it often for a dog that is housebreaking, but it can be helpful for other things as well. So, whenever a dog does a desired command such as the Down, say "Good Down" while showing the hand signal if the dog will not be aggressive to the hand signal. I know some dogs can get aggressive when they see or hear the command. If the dog gets stiff / looks aggressive when you give the command verbally, try using the hand signal only. You can click and treat a dog when capturing behavior. Advantages: This can be done even when the dog is just about to lie down in it's bed or crate and from a distance if necessary. Repetition of this is key, as with all commands. Christina Russell
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A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season,

A Pleasure to Meet You This holiday season, when you are visiting your friends and family, you may be faced with the opportunity to meet a dog that you do not know. Here are some tips to help you have a healthy and happy experience by understanding the appropriate way to approach a new dog: Always ask an owner for permission to touch their dog prior to petting. Ask if the dog is friendly. Some dogs are not welcoming to guests. Some owners do not like their dog to interact with guests. You do not want to risk your personal safety or reward them for a behavior their owner dislikes. Watch a dog's body language. If their hair stands up, they stop moving or wagging their tail, they hold their breath, they crouch down to the ground, or they begin barking or lunging, simply do not touch them. They may be nervous and are better left alone. Never run up to a stray dog and pet them. You do not know how this dog responds to people, if the dog is injured, or if the dog is otherwise aggressive. It is best to let the dog come to you, if you decide to interact at all. Let them hear and smell you prior to interacting with them directly. Stand still and put your hand out for the dog to smell. Let them get comfortable with your scents and sounds prior to actual touching. Do not approach the dog face-to-face. Rather, position yourself beside the dog. A face-to-face meeting can become a threat to a dog that you may not mean to make. Do not touch the dog if you are nervous. The dog will know and it will make them nervous as well. There is no reason to pet a dog if you do not feel comfortable. Do not pet a dog on the head when you first meet them. A shoulder or back petting session is more appropriate. Many dogs get nervous and/or upset when they are pet on top of their heads, or when people reach over their heads to pet them. Do not stare a dog in the eye. While this is a show of confidence in the USA, it is a show of confrontation in the canine world. Gently look at the dogs ears, face, or chest, but try to avoid direct eye contact. If you become uncomfortable or are being attacked by a dog you have just met NEVER turn your back and run away. The dog will chase you. It will think you are playing a game or have become a prey animal. Instead, remain calm, stand still until the dog goes away, and/or guard your body with any personal items (purse, umbrella, briefcase, etc.) that you have with you. Do not flail your arms, scream, throw personal items, or wave your fingers at a dog. Excitement and nervousness begets excitement and nervousness. Loose and flailing items are more easily grabbed by a dog. Close your fists and hold your arms steady at your side or across your body to keep yourself in a safer situation. Pet the dog gently, slowly, with a flat hand, in one direction. When you do pet a dog you have not met before, remember to speak slowly and quietly in sweet tones. Watch your children and be sure to show them the appropriate ways to meet a dog. Remember, even if an owner says that a dog is friendly, you are a stranger to them. Earn their trust by respecting their space. This is especially true of puppies for whom everything is new, loud, and can become overwhelming.
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INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild

INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild wolves, and although they are now domesticated, dogs and wolves still share many basic instincts. As young pups, both wild and domestic dogs are instinctively clean. Even in the wild, wolves are very reluctant to relieve themselves in or near their den. THE DEN: Wild and domestic dogs will typically establish a den. A den is a small area, normally with one opening, in which they feel safe and secure. Dogs spend lots of time in their dens: they will eat, sleep, play and whelp their puppies in there. Thus, a healthy dog will not relieve himself in his den. SCHEDULE: Your training instructor will custom design a feeding schedule for your dog. This will help you coordinate your dogs need to relieve himself with your schedule. To succeed in housebreaking your dog, it is critical that you adhere to your schedule. RELIEF STATION: You must establish a “relief station” that your dog can easily recognize. For example, you can create a 20x20 area marked by pine cones. Or if you have a natural area you’d like the dog to use, you may designate that his relief station. CORRECTION: Dogs will only learn from your correction if you catch them “red- handed”. If you don’t catch them in the act, you’re wasting your time correcting them. WATCH OR CONFINEMENT WATCH: Since after-the-fact corrections are not effective, it is sometimes necessary to watch your dog at all times. WATCH makes this practical. Your dog will be on his leash and by your side . This allows you to move about the house, catching your dog in the act of relieving himself. You will then be able to correct him -- effectively -- on the spot. Another benefit of the WATCH mode is that in forcing your dog to constantly follow your movements, you are asserting your leadership and ensuring his loyalty. CONFINEMENT: Achieves two goals: first, it establishes a den for your dog. Second, it forces your dog to rely on his instinctive desire NOT to soil his den. If your dog relieves himself in the den, he’ll quickly find this distasteful. He will learn to wait until being released from confinement to take care of his business. If, however, you do find that your dog has relieved himself in his den, leave him with the mess for 15 minutes. You want this behavior to have negative consequences for your dog. WATCH/CONFINEMENT procedures will be effective only if your housebreaking schedule is followed! PLEASE remember: it is very important to fill out your housebreaking logs completely.
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Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your

Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
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RULES OF THE ROAD If you are planning

RULES OF THE ROAD If you are planning on taking your dog on a road trip with you this summer, here are some things to remember: GET UP TO DATE: Check your dog's vaccinations and tags. Bring copies of your shot records with you. Make sure all relevant information is available on their tags. PREPARE TO PREVENT: Put on a fresh coat of flea and tick preventative, and make sure they've had their heartworm preventative for the month. Bring a veterinary first aid kit with you. These are available at most pet stores. STOCK UP: Make sure you have enough food, medications, and bottled water with you for your dog. Bringing bottled water can sometimes prevent dogs from getting stomach aches due to changes in water content. BUCKLE UP: Get a canine car harness. They help your dog stay in one seat and remain secure during any quick stopping. These are available at pet stores. CHECK OUT BEFORE YOU CHECK IN: There are many pet-friendly hotels for you to stop at along the way. Dogfriendly.com, petswelcome.com, bringfido.com, and doginmysuitcase.com are just a few of the many sites that the many list pet friendly accommodations available. Never leave your dog alone in the hotel room. This will prevent them coming in contact with unknowns and keep them secure. Always put out the do not disturb sign to prevent anyone from accidentally opening the door to a surprise when your dog greets them, or worse letting the dog out into the hotel unleashed. PLAN FOR PIT STOPS: Remember to plan a stop every two to three hours for your dog to go to the bathroom. Always clean up after your dog. Never leave a dog alone in a parked car because heat conditions may rapidly change. Regardless of location, always keep your dog on leash for both your security and theirs.
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COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to COME, that’s his opportunity to run to the person he loves most. Therefore, the COME command is the most positive lesson your dog can learn. For this reason, we do not give corrections while teaching. Corrections are a part of enforcement, but in the initial stages of training, this command should be entirely positive and fun for your dog. That’s why you should not proceed with the formal COME command training until the dog associates COME with the games on the preceding page. c Put your dog in a SIT/STAY. Move 6-10 feet away, and face the dog. c With the leash in your hand, give the command “ __________, COME!" (command tone) Use your right hand to give him the hand signal: extend your arm straight out, palm facing the ground. Then, bend your arm sharply inward, palm facing the chest. c Holding the leash taut, guide the dog straight toward you, while simultaneously coaxing him with praise. Use pressure on the leash to encourage your dog to move quickly, but DON’T drag him. c As soon as your dog reaches you, give the command, "_________, SIT". As your right hand lifts his chin, simultaneously use your left hand to push his hips into a SIT. Remember to give your dog lots of praise! We recommend lifting his head, and rubbing under his chin while praising. This encourages excellent canine posture! Note: As you teach your dog the COME command, it’s very important that you never use the word “come” without executing the command. If he’s not on a leash, the command cannot be properly enforced. Your trainer will suggest alternate ways to call your dog during this very crucial training period. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Alpha Lifts - This is a great way

Alpha Lifts - This is a great way to start getting puppy to trust and give in to the owners authority. This is not as dominate as an alpha rollover yet it is a smaller version of the concept of the dog losing some control over there freedom. The owner would stand over their dog facing the same direction of the dog. With one leg on each side of the dog. Then using both hands the owner reaches under the dogs chest and lifts the dogs front legs off the ground. Allowing the dogs front legs to very lightly touch the ground. This will tempt the dog to try and walk away, however they can not and learn to trust in the fact that the owner will release them once they no longer try to move. Then the owner can do the same thing with all four feet off the ground, same As above. This is a great exercise for owners to use to gain trust and slight dominance over their dogs. Mark Thompson
taekwondo charlotte, taekwondo wesley chapel

Monica Singh
Sangrock Tae Kwon Do

Charlotte Dog Training | Charlotte Dog Daycare |

Charlotte Dog Training |
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Monroe Dog Groomer|
Charlotte Dog Training |



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Monroe Dog Groomer|

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to COME, that’s his opportunity to run to the person he loves most. Therefore, the COME command is the most positive lesson your dog can learn. For this reason, we do not give corrections while teaching. Corrections are a part of enforcement, but in the initial stages of training, this command should be entirely positive and fun for your dog. That’s why you should not proceed with the formal COME command training until the dog associates COME with the games on the preceding page. c Put your dog in a SIT/STAY. Move 6-10 feet away, and face the dog. c With the leash in your hand, give the command “ __________, COME!" (command tone) Use your right hand to give him the hand signal: extend your arm straight out, palm facing the ground. Then, bend your arm sharply inward, palm facing the chest. c Holding the leash taut, guide the dog straight toward you, while simultaneously coaxing him with praise. Use pressure on the leash to encourage your dog to move quickly, but DON’T drag him. c As soon as your dog reaches you, give the command, "_________, SIT". As your right hand lifts his chin, simultaneously use your left hand to push his hips into a SIT. Remember to give your dog lots of praise! We recommend lifting his head, and rubbing under his chin while praising. This encourages excellent canine posture! Note: As you teach your dog the COME command, it’s very important that you never use the word “come” without executing the command. If he’s not on a leash, the command cannot be properly enforced. Your trainer will suggest alternate ways to call your dog during this very crucial training period. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Capture Desired Behavior Capturing a desired behavior: This

Capture Desired Behavior Capturing a desired behavior: This is a great way to help an owner gain some progress between practing commands formally. I use this with a dog that is especially difficult on Down for instance, like the 7 year old Sharpei I trained that was extremely resistant with the owner. We used the Down with Chair method, which is a form of capturing the behavior...and this method combined. Most of us know about Capturing Behavior. The main reason for adding this page is to remind you to inform the clien'ts to use it. We use it often for a dog that is housebreaking, but it can be helpful for other things as well. So, whenever a dog does a desired command such as the Down, say "Good Down" while showing the hand signal if the dog will not be aggressive to the hand signal. I know some dogs can get aggressive when they see or hear the command. If the dog gets stiff / looks aggressive when you give the command verbally, try using the hand signal only. You can click and treat a dog when capturing behavior. Advantages: This can be done even when the dog is just about to lie down in it's bed or crate and from a distance if necessary. Repetition of this is key, as with all commands. Christina Russell
taekwondo charlotte, taekwondo wesley chapel

Monica Singh
Sangrock Tae Kwon Do