DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste

DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste o In the dog eat dog world of real estate, an area is only as good as its property values. And for areas overrun by smelly piles of dog poop, the feces factor could prove the weakest link to many homeowners. o The American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), estimates Americans own more pets than ever before, with 74.8 million dogs as of 2008. o Beyond your grass, it has been estimated that a single gram of dog feces can contain 23 million fecal coliform bacteria, which are known to cause cramps, diarrhea, intestinal illness, and serious kidney disorders in humans. EPA even estimates that two or three days worth of droppings from a population of about 100 dogs would contribute enough bacteria to temporarily close a bay, and all watershed areas within 20 miles of it, to swimming and shellfishing. o The EPA explains that the decay of your pet's waste actually creates nutrients for weeds and algae that grow in the waterways. As these organisms thrive on your dog's droppings, they overtake the water and limit the amount of light that can penetrate the water's surface. As a result, oxygen levels in the water decrease, and the fish and seafood we eat can be asphyxiated, EPA says. o A toxic cycle o If you aren't worried about your local waterways, you may be a bit more concerned about the impact of dog droppings on your home. The thing about persistently disposing of stools improperly (or not at all) is that it kicks off a harmful cycle that can affect your whole family - including your pet. o According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), pet droppings can contribute to diseases animals pass to humans, called zoonoses. When infected dog droppings are deposited on your lawn, the eggs of certain roundworms and other parasites can linger in your soil for years. Anyone who comes into contact with that soil - be it through gardening, playing sports, walking barefoot or any other means - runs the risk of coming into contact with those eggs; especially your dog. o Some of the hard-to-pronounce parasites your lawn could harbor include Cryptosporidium, Giardia, Salmonella, as well as hookworms, ringworms and tapeworms. Infections from these bugs often cause fever, muscle aches, headache, vomiting, and diarrhea in humans. Children are most susceptible, since they often play in the dirt and put things in their mouths or eyes. o In the end, it is best not to let sleeping dogs lie when it comes to issues of communal cleanliness. After all, proper sanitation could mean the difference between your yard being a beautiful oasis, or an area that has gone to the dogs. o Author: Dave Mason is the franchise owner of DoodyCalls, Charleston's Premier Pet Waste Removal Service
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Digger's dog 'Quake' killed in firefight

Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training, we often hear that people simply do not have time to practice with their dogs. While setting aside time to spend one on one with your dog is ideal, and should be pursued whenever possible, we understand that sometimes life can be busy. We are, after all, human. Even though life is busy, your dog still needs repetition and consistency in order to develop the habits that you desire. Often people do not realize that the time spent with your dog, whether set aside or not, is time spent training. Why not integrate your practice into your daily routines so that you can make the most of your time and bond with your dog? There are lots of ways to do it. Here are just a few: SIT and DOWN: Sit and down commands should be practiced whenever you need your dog to stop moving and freeze into position. While challenging your dog to a long stay session during a set-aside practice time is one way to do it, another is having him or her practice her down and/or sit stays while you answer the door, read a magazine, or brush your teeth. Whenever your dog is moving around and you would rather them not be, replace the negative behavior with a positive one. PLACE: Working on Place can be easily accomplished while you watch television or check your email! Start with short place challenges during commercial breaks and then when your dog gets better at it, extend out to actual show segments. Put them on place while you start reading your email, see how many you can get through before your dog tries to get up! While snuggling with your dog during your downtime is often a relaxing time for many owners, this is a way to get in your practice so that when guests come, they can be just as relaxed. Don't forget, if you don't practice, your dog is not going to remember what to do when you need it to. WAITING : Even the simple acts of going through a doorway to take your dog out or feeding them are great opportunities for integrated practice. Have your dog do a sit/stay or a down/stay and wait at doorways. You should always go through first. Have them sit/stay or down/stay while you put down their food. Release them from their stays with a "you're through". This way they understand that you own the food and they are motivated to listen!
Digger's dog 'Quake' killed in firefight
An Australian soldier has been wounded and a "much-loved" military dog killed during a firefight with insurgents in Afghanistan. The soldier sustained minor injuries during a joint operation by the Afghan National Security Forces and Australian Special
Source: www.smh.com.au

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COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to COME, that’s his opportunity to run to the person he loves most. Therefore, the COME command is the most positive lesson your dog can learn. For this reason, we do not give corrections while teaching. Corrections are a part of enforcement, but in the initial stages of training, this command should be entirely positive and fun for your dog. That’s why you should not proceed with the formal COME command training until the dog associates COME with the games on the preceding page. c Put your dog in a SIT/STAY. Move 6-10 feet away, and face the dog. c With the leash in your hand, give the command “ __________, COME!" (command tone) Use your right hand to give him the hand signal: extend your arm straight out, palm facing the ground. Then, bend your arm sharply inward, palm facing the chest. c Holding the leash taut, guide the dog straight toward you, while simultaneously coaxing him with praise. Use pressure on the leash to encourage your dog to move quickly, but DON’T drag him. c As soon as your dog reaches you, give the command, "_________, SIT". As your right hand lifts his chin, simultaneously use your left hand to push his hips into a SIT. Remember to give your dog lots of praise! We recommend lifting his head, and rubbing under his chin while praising. This encourages excellent canine posture! Note: As you teach your dog the COME command, it’s very important that you never use the word “come” without executing the command. If he’s not on a leash, the command cannot be properly enforced. Your trainer will suggest alternate ways to call your dog during this very crucial training period. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Dog Boarding Matthews,NC

Dog Boarding Matthews,NC
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Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat?

Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat? You bet! There are many treats out there that you can purchase that are great for your dog. It is fun to see them excited for their gift, and it is a great way to bond with your dog when used correctly. Unfortunately, there are lots of foods out there that are NOT good for your dog and should be avoided. Lucky for you, we have made the following list of "do" and "do not" treats to help you with your choices and make sure that positive experiences win out over the negative alternatives. DO: Many companies offer treats that are free of wheat, corn, soy, and artificial ingredients. These are the best choices you can make for your dog. Try using sweet potato rawhides instead of animal rawhides to offer your dog a treat that is easier on their stomach and less likely to create tension than regular rawhide options. Some of the companies that make treats that we often use are Zuke's, Cloud Star Buddy Biscuits, Newman's Own Organics, and Sojos Good Dog Treats. DO NOT: Canine metabolic systems are NOT the same as human ones. For this reason, there are many foods that should be left out of all canine diets even as treats. The following list offers some of the grocery items that should be avoided: alcohol, baby food, bones from fish/poultry, cat food, chocolate and other caffeine products, citrus, fat trimmings, grapes, raisins, hops, human vitamins, liver (in large quantities), macadamia nuts, dairy, spoiled foods, mushrooms, onions, garlic, fruit pits, potato, tomato, rhubarb, raw eggs, raw fish, salt, string, sugar, scraps, tobacco and yeast. While this is an incomplete list, these are commonly questioned items that are not approved for animal consumption. For more information visit PetEducation.Com . If you ever have a question about whether or not an ingredient is safe for your dog, we always suggest calling to check with your veterinarian. HOW: When used correctly, treats are a great way to reinforce training. When overused, treats can cause both treat dependency and obesity. Use treats according to your trainer's instruction, and with moderation. Reserve the use of treats for exceptional situations, and use your praise as rewards during everyday situations. Remember, in the dog world, praise without effort is never rewarded. Therefore, do not give your dog a treat without reason. Make sure that your dog has been issued a challenge and has completed it. These challenges could include stays with distraction and self control around strangers. Your dog will be proud of itself for a job well done and will understand the treat is a reward. This style of treating will show the dog you're proud of them for pleasing you.
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Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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5 New Years Resolutions for your Dog 1.

5 New Years Resolutions for your Dog 1. Walk Your Dog - Making a goal to walk your dog everyday will help you and your pet get into better shape. By using a control walk, you will be reinforcing your dog's place in the family. 2. Obedience Training - You know what to do, but are you being consistent? Resolve to spend 5-10 minutes every other day brushing up on your dog's obedience skills. While you are at it, come to a few tune-up classes and really flex your alpha muscles. 3. Annual Exam - Just like people, dogs need to have an annual check-up to make sure that everything is working properly and that there is nothing going on beneath the surface. Since symptoms can go unnoticed, a visit to your veterinarian's office might be the key to catching something early. If your pet has not seen a veterinarian in the last year consider making an appointment for its physical exam. 4. Socialization - If your dog isn't given the opportunity to be around other dogs, then problems can arise. You might notice barking when you are out for a walk when they see another dog. This can escalate into something more, so it's always a good idea to allow your dog to socialize with other pets as much as possible. 5. Helping a Rescue Organization- What a great New Years Resolution! Rescue organizations are always in need of volunteers, food and blankets, or monetary contributions. You can celebrate your dog by giving to an animal welfare organization.
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OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring,

OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring, we look forward to warmer weather and more time outside. For dog owners, many feel that this is a time that the dog can experience more freedom. If done correctly, this can be a great experience. If not done correctly, mischief and mayhem can ensue. Here are some helpful hints to make your spring less stressful: Boredom can lead to big problems. If you leave your dog outside without helping them to release their physical and mental energies beforehand, you may find that they will become creative. Their projects can range from a small hole to a knocking over your prized barbeque to tearing down or redecorating your deck and lawn furniture. Alone time outside does not replace walking and heeling practice. It is not an automatic relief of stored up energy, at least not in a consistently positive manner. A nap underneath a tree outside will only result when the dog is exhausted. Make sure to not put your dog in a position to express their creative energies in a way that would not make you proud. A watched dog is a better dog. Do not leave your dog in your yard unsupervised, especially if you expect them to behave. If regularly attended, the dog will understand that outside is just like inside: you are the leader and they need to listen accordingly. New sights, new sounds, looser dirt, small animals beginning their springtime frolic, and increased daily sunlight are all invitations for a grand canine adventure. If you would rather your dog not partake in these activities, you need to be consistent with your training. Remember, a long line (30 feet) can give your dog an increased area to play while remaining able to be consistent with your corrections. Even if your dog is reliably off leash trained, it may take a couple of days to remind them how to behave in their changed environment. Without a leash, this becomes much more difficult. Do not use a remote collar without proper training. Canine-proof your yard as much as possible. Too much time outdoors unattended can result in housebreaking issues. If a dog never has to ask to go outside, then it never will. Designate one area of the yard for bathroom activities, and make sure that they have enough time indoors to remember to hold it when they are not in their "rest" area. Dogs are creatures of habit. Do not assume that your dog will be happy simply because it is outside. Banishing them to the great outdoors while you are away can create stress. Many dogs would be happier to remain surrounded by the familiar sights and sounds indoors that can remind them of their place in your home especially if you have already proofed your dog for inside unattended time. If they are used to being in a crate, it is most likely relaxing for them to remain in their routine.
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TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a

TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a trick that reinforces patience with food! Try the following steps to train the Treat-On-The-Nose trick! Brush up on your sit-stay before you attempt this trick. Your dog has to sit perfectly still to hold the treat! Start with a sit-stay directly in front of you while you sit in a chair. Their head should be slightly over your lap. Put one hand under the dog's head and raise its nose to a position that is level to the floor. Place the treat on the flattest part of their nose. While you gently rest their muzzle in your hand, alternate praise with the phrase "Hold It!" in your command tone. After a few seconds, release him, praise him, and let him flip the treat off his nose and eat it. Repeat this process five to ten times per day for several days. As your dog begins to hold their own head steady, begin to remove your hands from their muzzle to let them do it alone. Some dogs will drop the treat on the floor and pick it up. Others will flip it into the air and catch it. If you desire the flip method and your dog is a "dropper", immediately command them to "leave it" if they drop it. Let them take it if they flip it. With consistency, this will condition the dog to flip it. If they do not catch it on the first flip, praise the effort with "good dog!" so that they do not give up. When they do catch it, praise vigorously!
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Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive,

Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive, we begin to start preparing special holiday treats. Turkeys, cookies, candies? the list goes on. But what if you are not the only one in the house checking out the plates? Is your dog taking food from your counters, or even right off your plate? This issue is so common that it has a name: "Counter-Surfing". To resolve this issue, you have three choices: punishment, extinction, and alternatives. Punishment is not really a choice in this case. Punish too much and the dog will be scared to go anywhere near food. Punish too little or the wrong way and you will simply teach the dog not to "surf" with you around. Turn away for a second though and all bets are off. Punishment cannot be consistent if you are not around to see the behavior, so this just won't work. While you are frustrated, punishment may just be worth the reward that your dog receives by stealing your tasty food. Extinction is the process by which a behavior disappears due to the removal of its stimulus. In other words: no food, no surfing. Surfing is a behavior that is a conditioned response. Every time the dog steals food, they are rewarded. If you got a dollar every time you touched a doorknob in your home, you would probably touch that doorknob a lot. If that reward was removed, you would most likely eventually reduce the number of times you touched the knob to a more normal level or extinguish that behavior all together. Same with the dog's thievery. You must remove the food reward from the situation by eliminating all unattended food sources. There can be no plates left within reach, no food left on counters, and no crumbs left anywhere. Storage containers, high shelving, and immediate cleaning is required for this process to work. Even dirty dishes can be a source of food reward if left around where a dog can find them. If and when this is not possible, the dog must be removed from the environment where the food is located, in order to prevent accidental reinforcement of stealing behaviors. Alternative therapy is the replacement of a negative behavior with a more positive one. In this case, the PLACE command can be used to have your dog remain in a fixed location that is away from the food. Make sure to practice often, to reward good behavior with verbal praise and petting, and to have a leash on your dog for reinforcement during practice periods. Begin with short durations and then build up to the longer ones. Treat the dog on place so that the dog understands that if he or she remains in "place" the rewards come to them! If they leave, they get nothing at all. Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you. Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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Dog is the third hero of Kya Super Kool Hain Hum : Tusshar

Capture Desired Behavior Capturing a desired behavior: This is a great way to help an owner gain some progress between practing commands formally. I use this with a dog that is especially difficult on Down for instance, like the 7 year old Sharpei I trained that was extremely resistant with the owner. We used the Down with Chair method, which is a form of capturing the behavior...and this method combined. Most of us know about Capturing Behavior. The main reason for adding this page is to remind you to inform the clien'ts to use it. We use it often for a dog that is housebreaking, but it can be helpful for other things as well. So, whenever a dog does a desired command such as the Down, say "Good Down" while showing the hand signal if the dog will not be aggressive to the hand signal. I know some dogs can get aggressive when they see or hear the command. If the dog gets stiff / looks aggressive when you give the command verbally, try using the hand signal only. You can click and treat a dog when capturing behavior. Advantages: This can be done even when the dog is just about to lie down in it's bed or crate and from a distance if necessary. Repetition of this is key, as with all commands. Christina Russell
Dog is the third hero of Kya Super Kool Hain Hum : Tusshar
Actor Riteish Deshmukh and Tusshar Kapoor's adult-comedy Kya Super Kool Hain Hum also features a pug which the latter describes as the third hero of the movie. "The first film featured a cat and you can't even call it a cameo. But he (the pug
Source: www.hindustantimes.com

Hero dog saves toddler from drowning in family pool�
A heroic dog saved a toddler from drowning after the boy fell into a pool this weekend. A Michigan family got the shock of a lifetime when 14-month-old Stanley nearly drowned after in the pool in the backyard. The reason their son is alive today, they say
Source: www.nydailynews.com

Dog Saves Drowning Toddler, Now Called a Hero
Bear the dog is being heralded as a hero after saving a 14-month-old boy named Stanley. The dog jumped into the family pool and put Stanley on his back, allowing the boy to be seen by his mother and given medical attention. Stanley was trailing his mother
Source: global.christianpost.com

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FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of

FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of the holiday and very few other days of the year. They are big, beautiful, exciting, and loud. Remember, for your dog who has hearing ten times more sensitive than we do, the loud part can catch your dog unaware, disorient them, and create anxiety. In fact, often times fight or flight instincts kick in and dogs shelters will be inundated with dogs on the days following fireworks displays. While some dogs have little or no reaction, for others, fireworks can cause serious disturbances that can be emotionally scarring for them. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which one any individual dog is or how any event may affect your dog. Here are some guidelines to consider prior to the festivities: Bringing Your Dog With You May we suggest you reconsider bringing your dog with you on your fourth adventures? These displays are not made for dogs. Often the aerial display is accompanied by sparklers and amateur displays which are lower and less predictable. Flashes of light, loud explosions, and crowds make for a confused and anxious dog with nowhere to go. Further, do not leave your dog in your car while you enjoy the show. This only reduces the "trapped" feeling to the confines of your vehicle which can result in destruction, soiling, and injury from exertion of anxious energies. Remember, a scared dog in a crowd is a danger to both itself and the people around it. Leashes and collars are not infallible. Leaving Your Dog Behind If you leave your dog at home and fireworks are being displayed nearby, make sure that they are in a place that is indoors where they have the least likelihood of causing damage to your home or themselves. Crates are strongly recommended if your dog has crating experience. Turn on, and up, your radio or television to mask the sound of the fireworks. Close your blinds or curtains to mask the flashing lights. Take away your dog's favorite toy a day or two before the festivities, and return it in time for the event. This way, they can be distracted by something you know that will give them happiness. In Either case Regardless of your canine's location, some basic steps should be taken to ensure their safety. Make sure that their tags are up to date, including one with your contact information, in the event that their fight or flight instinct gives them wings. To be doubly sure, make sure your dog is micro chipped and that that information is also correct in the event of a collar failure. Let your dog do its business prior to time for the fireworks displays. Play with them more than usual to ensure that they are tired and therefore less likely to have the energy to expend with nervousness. If your dog does react negatively to the fireworks, remember not to coddle them. If you coddle or hold them during this time, it will feel exactly the same as when you praise them. In other words, you'll be telling them: "Good job being nervous! That's what you should be doing! Keep it up!". In contrast, light massage style petting, if your dog will let you, when practiced without pity or nervousness can help calm both of you.
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chris epstein charlotte nc

chris epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc

SIT/STAY COMMAND Begin with your dog on your

SIT/STAY COMMAND Begin with your dog on your left side, facing the same direction you are. Reach across your body with your right hand; grasp the leash in your right hand, holding it about 1 inch above the clasp. With your left hand grasp your dog�s hips gently. Using your left hand, rotate your dogs hips back, then down, into the sitting position, as you say �_________________ sit.� (Command Tone) Once your dog is in the sitting position, give the command �STAY�, as you show him/her the stay hand signal with a SNAP. (Palm of right hand) As you turn and face your dog, moving with your right foot first, begin to back away from him with a slack leash as you praise him: �Goooood boy!� When your dog gets up (and he will!) move quickly and SNAP the leash straight over his head as you say �NO!� (correction tone). Follow this ediately with �STAY�, (command tone) using the hand signal. Praise your dog both physically and verbally, while he/she remains in SIT/STAY. Your goal is to be able to circle your dog while he/she STAYS. Gently pull your dog toward you as you say �YOU�RE THROUGH!� (praise tone). Remember it is important to maintain patience and control; it is necessary for your dog to make mistakes so he can learn not to make them! TRAINING GOAL:______________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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