Dog Training In Your Home: 12/11/11

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal

BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal and you have invited over friends. You gather around the table and soak in the sights and smells of the prepared meal and look forward to spending your time together. Then you realize that you are not the only one who appreciates the event. Your dog has arrived and is staring, pawing, and whining in a full theatrical production hoping to be paid in food. Begging is not a reality that most dog owners enjoy, and is appreciated by fewer guests. What if your dog does not beg for food, but instead begs for your attention? Why do dogs beg at all? How do you make them stop? Dogs beg because they are either looking for food, rank, or attention. Dogs who beg for food generally get what they want. To resolve this type of beggar you need to be sure that your dog never receives food during human food times. This means that you can never reward your dog with a treat at the table or during food preparation. Put the scraps off to the side and give it to your dog during its regular feeding times, in their bowl, if you must, but never give it to them during human food events. Never means never. Dogs are persistent and even a 1% chance will be worth pursuing. You will lose ground if anyone feeds the dog during their begging periods. In the dog world, the order in which the animals eat is an indication of their rank within the pack. Therefore, sometimes begging is a challenge for position within the family. The most powerful dogs eat first and the lowest ranking dog eats last. When a dog gets rewarded for begging, they eat at the same time, or before someone else, and therefore move up the leadership ladder. The rightful position of a canine companion is below all of the family members. Make sure that your dog does not eat during or before anyone in the household. Feed the dog in its own bowl, away from the dinner table, after the meal to maintain the proper balance in your family's hierarchy. Dogs who beg for attention exhibit the same whining, crying, and pawing behaviors, but, instead of food, pursue interaction. In order to reverse these behaviors, you need to avoid giving your dog attention during these times. Whenever they begin to act out, ignore them completely. No eye contact, no verbal reactions, no touching. If you respond during their tantrum, the dog will achieve the attention it is desires. Negative attention is still attention. Resume interaction when the dog stops its negative behavior. The dog will realize that it is only positive behavior that receives their desired outcome. Overcome the possible guilt that can come from ignoring the begging by giving your dog some of your quality time when they are doing the right thing, so that they know that they do not need to beg in the first place.
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DOWN/STAY COMMAND c Begin with your dog in

DOWN/STAY COMMAND c Begin with your dog in a SIT/STAY position, on your left side. c Place your left hand palm down, pinkie toward your dog, around the leash. As you kneel on your right knee, slide leash through your hand until your hand is touching the dogs neck. c As you say "__________, DOWN" (command tone), begin to apply pressure on the dogs right shoulder with your left hand. Gently press down while pulling back simultaneously, as you give the DOWN hand signal with your other hand. You may also pat the ground as you give the command. c Once your dog is in the DOWN position say “STAY" (command tone) and begin to move away. When he breaks the STAY use a quick SNAP toward the ground as you say "NO!" (correction tone) Give the STAY command. Repeat until your dog remains in the DOWN position until you release him. c Your goal is to be able to step over your dog while he remains in the DOWN position. Note: The DOWN command is an act of submission for your dog. This is by far the most important command your dog can learn. It is mandatory that your dog master this. Remember: Make it fun! TRAINING GOAL:___________________________________ ___________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat?

Treat Selection Would your dog like a treat? You bet! There are many treats out there that you can purchase that are great for your dog. It is fun to see them excited for their gift, and it is a great way to bond with your dog when used correctly. Unfortunately, there are lots of foods out there that are NOT good for your dog and should be avoided. Lucky for you, we have made the following list of "do" and "do not" treats to help you with your choices and make sure that positive experiences win out over the negative alternatives. DO: Many companies offer treats that are free of wheat, corn, soy, and artificial ingredients. These are the best choices you can make for your dog. Try using sweet potato rawhides instead of animal rawhides to offer your dog a treat that is easier on their stomach and less likely to create tension than regular rawhide options. Some of the companies that make treats that we often use are Zuke's, Cloud Star Buddy Biscuits, Newman's Own Organics, and Sojos Good Dog Treats. DO NOT: Canine metabolic systems are NOT the same as human ones. For this reason, there are many foods that should be left out of all canine diets even as treats. The following list offers some of the grocery items that should be avoided: alcohol, baby food, bones from fish/poultry, cat food, chocolate and other caffeine products, citrus, fat trimmings, grapes, raisins, hops, human vitamins, liver (in large quantities), macadamia nuts, dairy, spoiled foods, mushrooms, onions, garlic, fruit pits, potato, tomato, rhubarb, raw eggs, raw fish, salt, string, sugar, scraps, tobacco and yeast. While this is an incomplete list, these are commonly questioned items that are not approved for animal consumption. For more information visit PetEducation.Com . If you ever have a question about whether or not an ingredient is safe for your dog, we always suggest calling to check with your veterinarian. HOW: When used correctly, treats are a great way to reinforce training. When overused, treats can cause both treat dependency and obesity. Use treats according to your trainer's instruction, and with moderation. Reserve the use of treats for exceptional situations, and use your praise as rewards during everyday situations. Remember, in the dog world, praise without effort is never rewarded. Therefore, do not give your dog a treat without reason. Make sure that your dog has been issued a challenge and has completed it. These challenges could include stays with distraction and self control around strangers. Your dog will be proud of itself for a job well done and will understand the treat is a reward. This style of treating will show the dog you're proud of them for pleasing you.
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UW-L tech goes to the (sled) dogs - Winona Daily News

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
UW-L tech goes to the (sled) dogs - Winona Daily News

UW-L tech goes to the (sled) dogs
Winona Daily News
The need for fewer dogs has helped make dryland racing as popular as snow racing, Cooper said. Golden retrievers, standard poodles, boxer mixes and many other dog breeds have competed in the Dirty Dog Dryland Derby. A three-day work week allows for ...

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Dog Training Gastonia,NC

Shon Mitchell
Owner: Dog Training In Your Home

FRISBEE BASICS - Dog Training Watching a dog

FRISBEE BASICS - Dog Training Watching a dog launch through the air and catch a frisbee is a beautiful thing, but they don't start out at that point. Here are a few tips to get Your dog started playing a fun game of catch. Start off by sliding the Frisbee back and forth on the ground in front. Let your dog take it out of your hand. Always keep it fun and use lots of praise! Throw the disc on the ground, rolling it like a wheel. This will allow the dog to get used to chasing it without a bad experience of possibly getting hit by a flying disc. When your dog is interested in playing with the Frisbee, toss it and let them chase. Keep the tosses short so the Frisbee stays clearly visible as an attractive object to retrieve. Be careful not to throw the Frisbee directly at your dog. You do not want to make them afraid. Stand about three feet in front of your dog, gently toss the Frisbee in the air and say "Catch." If your dog catches it, give them lots of praise. If it is not caught, pick it up off the ground yourself. The catch should be the reward. When your dog accomplishes this, stand to the side of your dog, so they learn to go get it. Once your dog is comfortable catching short throws, make your tosses longer. Attach a long leash, so you can gently guide your dog back to you. Do not push the dog too hard. If your dog loses interest, then quit for now and start when you are both fresh. Put the discs away when you are not there. You dog should realize the disc is a special toy that is only available during your Frisbee tossing sessions. Supplements for Dogs? You take a Multi-Vitamin, but how about one for your dog? Just like people, dogs can have gaps in their nutrition as well. These holes in the dog's nutrition can be due to the organs, glands and tissues that may be compromised by disease, surgery, injury, etc. By increasing the amount of proper nutrition in your dog's diet, you can effectively help him with regards to faster healing times, tissue regeneration, and improved return in overall function. The goal of nutritional support is to provide complete nutrition to each cell, restoring normal metabolic function. Total Life Care not only addresses people nutrition, but they also carry a line of organic and whole food supplements especially formulated for dogs. These formulations range from a canine whole body support to more specific support for the dog's skin, liver, heart, digestion, immune system, kidneys, or thyroid. Total Life Care is offering a special discount for the Dog Training in Your Home clients. Bring in this newsletter for 10% off of any supplement products we carry. For more information about giving your dog a better quality of life in the form of proper nutrition, contact Total Life Care at 843.402.0310 843.402.0310 or at www.TLCCharleston.com.
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TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a

TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a trick that reinforces patience with food! Try the following steps to train the Treat-On-The-Nose trick! Brush up on your sit-stay before you attempt this trick. Your dog has to sit perfectly still to hold the treat! Start with a sit-stay directly in front of you while you sit in a chair. Their head should be slightly over your lap. Put one hand under the dog's head and raise its nose to a position that is level to the floor. Place the treat on the flattest part of their nose. While you gently rest their muzzle in your hand, alternate praise with the phrase "Hold It!" in your command tone. After a few seconds, release him, praise him, and let him flip the treat off his nose and eat it. Repeat this process five to ten times per day for several days. As your dog begins to hold their own head steady, begin to remove your hands from their muzzle to let them do it alone. Some dogs will drop the treat on the floor and pick it up. Others will flip it into the air and catch it. If you desire the flip method and your dog is a "dropper", immediately command them to "leave it" if they drop it. Let them take it if they flip it. With consistency, this will condition the dog to flip it. If they do not catch it on the first flip, praise the effort with "good dog!" so that they do not give up. When they do catch it, praise vigorously!
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OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring,

OUTSIDE OF REALITY As we welcome the spring, we look forward to warmer weather and more time outside. For dog owners, many feel that this is a time that the dog can experience more freedom. If done correctly, this can be a great experience. If not done correctly, mischief and mayhem can ensue. Here are some helpful hints to make your spring less stressful: Boredom can lead to big problems. If you leave your dog outside without helping them to release their physical and mental energies beforehand, you may find that they will become creative. Their projects can range from a small hole to a knocking over your prized barbeque to tearing down or redecorating your deck and lawn furniture. Alone time outside does not replace walking and heeling practice. It is not an automatic relief of stored up energy, at least not in a consistently positive manner. A nap underneath a tree outside will only result when the dog is exhausted. Make sure to not put your dog in a position to express their creative energies in a way that would not make you proud. A watched dog is a better dog. Do not leave your dog in your yard unsupervised, especially if you expect them to behave. If regularly attended, the dog will understand that outside is just like inside: you are the leader and they need to listen accordingly. New sights, new sounds, looser dirt, small animals beginning their springtime frolic, and increased daily sunlight are all invitations for a grand canine adventure. If you would rather your dog not partake in these activities, you need to be consistent with your training. Remember, a long line (30 feet) can give your dog an increased area to play while remaining able to be consistent with your corrections. Even if your dog is reliably off leash trained, it may take a couple of days to remind them how to behave in their changed environment. Without a leash, this becomes much more difficult. Do not use a remote collar without proper training. Canine-proof your yard as much as possible. Too much time outdoors unattended can result in housebreaking issues. If a dog never has to ask to go outside, then it never will. Designate one area of the yard for bathroom activities, and make sure that they have enough time indoors to remember to hold it when they are not in their "rest" area. Dogs are creatures of habit. Do not assume that your dog will be happy simply because it is outside. Banishing them to the great outdoors while you are away can create stress. Many dogs would be happier to remain surrounded by the familiar sights and sounds indoors that can remind them of their place in your home especially if you have already proofed your dog for inside unattended time. If they are used to being in a crate, it is most likely relaxing for them to remain in their routine.
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Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive,

Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive, we begin to start preparing special holiday treats. Turkeys, cookies, candies? the list goes on. But what if you are not the only one in the house checking out the plates? Is your dog taking food from your counters, or even right off your plate? This issue is so common that it has a name: "Counter-Surfing". To resolve this issue, you have three choices: punishment, extinction, and alternatives. Punishment is not really a choice in this case. Punish too much and the dog will be scared to go anywhere near food. Punish too little or the wrong way and you will simply teach the dog not to "surf" with you around. Turn away for a second though and all bets are off. Punishment cannot be consistent if you are not around to see the behavior, so this just won't work. While you are frustrated, punishment may just be worth the reward that your dog receives by stealing your tasty food. Extinction is the process by which a behavior disappears due to the removal of its stimulus. In other words: no food, no surfing. Surfing is a behavior that is a conditioned response. Every time the dog steals food, they are rewarded. If you got a dollar every time you touched a doorknob in your home, you would probably touch that doorknob a lot. If that reward was removed, you would most likely eventually reduce the number of times you touched the knob to a more normal level or extinguish that behavior all together. Same with the dog's thievery. You must remove the food reward from the situation by eliminating all unattended food sources. There can be no plates left within reach, no food left on counters, and no crumbs left anywhere. Storage containers, high shelving, and immediate cleaning is required for this process to work. Even dirty dishes can be a source of food reward if left around where a dog can find them. If and when this is not possible, the dog must be removed from the environment where the food is located, in order to prevent accidental reinforcement of stealing behaviors. Alternative therapy is the replacement of a negative behavior with a more positive one. In this case, the PLACE command can be used to have your dog remain in a fixed location that is away from the food. Make sure to practice often, to reward good behavior with verbal praise and petting, and to have a leash on your dog for reinforcement during practice periods. Begin with short durations and then build up to the longer ones. Treat the dog on place so that the dog understands that if he or she remains in "place" the rewards come to them! If they leave, they get nothing at all. Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you. Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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Obama Presses GOP to Approve Consumer Watchdog Nominee

President Obama is pressing congressional Republicans to approve his pick to head a new consumer watchdog office, promising he won't back down on his effort to protect middle-class Americans from deceptive business practices and prevent another financial meltdown.

Source: feeds.foxnews.com

Alpha Lifts - This is a great way

Alpha Lifts - This is a great way to start getting puppy to trust and give in to the owners authority. This is not as dominate as an alpha rollover yet it is a smaller version of the concept of the dog losing some control over there freedom. The owner would stand over their dog facing the same direction of the dog. With one leg on each side of the dog. Then using both hands the owner reaches under the dogs chest and lifts the dogs front legs off the ground. Allowing the dogs front legs to very lightly touch the ground. This will tempt the dog to try and walk away, however they can not and learn to trust in the fact that the owner will release them once they no longer try to move. Then the owner can do the same thing with all four feet off the ground, same As above. This is a great exercise for owners to use to gain trust and slight dominance over their dogs. Mark Thompson
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Dog Training In Your Home