Flying a Service Dog There are a few

Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
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Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote

Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
Charleston Dog Training

Allison Allen
Dog Training In Your Home

When Your Dog Loves You Too Much... Separation

When Your Dog Loves You Too Much... Separation Anxiety is often misdiagnosed in the canine world. Sometimes it is really just boredom or the dog becoming adventurous when given the opportunity. If your dog seems to follow you and stick to you like glue, and/or if destruction is happening within the first 20 minutes you are away, then you are probably dealing with some form of separation anxiety. Here are some things that you can do to help: - Keep your comings and goings neutral! Don't make a big fuss at either time. - Practice leaving with your normal cues (pick up your keys, grab your purse, put on your work shoes, etc.), then don't leave. This will help desensitize your dog to your departures. - Give your dog a hobby while you are gone. Stuff a Kong, leave treats around the house, utilize a feeding tube, or anything that will get your dog up, moving and eating. A dog that is eating is not a stressed dog. - Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you, such as an old t-shirt that you recently slept in. - A good dog is a tired dog! Try to exercise your dog more both mentally and physically.
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DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts,

DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts, and dirty dogs: Digging can be a very destructive and expensive adventure for your dog to embark upon. First, you need to question why your dog is digging in the first place. Is it bored? We already spoke to the resolution of that issue in the above article. Second, do they dig and lay in the holes? Then your dog may be hot or cold and looking for some relief. Train your dog where to lay his head by finding a more suitable bed that satisfies their warmth or cooling requirements. Third and most tricky, is your dog trying to leave your yard by digging under a fence? To reverse this one, you will need to attach a long line to their collar and watch them. When you catch them in the act of digging, you need to correct them, while saying "NO!", and then replace their behavior with an obedience command. When you find holes, it is important to immediately refill them. Check to be sure that the dog has not buried anything in the hole to prevent them from re-digging the hole to retrieve their items. Do not allow your dog to take food, treats, or rawhides outside because this often can lead to an instinctive burying behavior to protect their leftovers. If the behaviors continue after consistent observing and training on your own, make sure to call us so that the behaviors do not become a solidified habit.
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Dog Boarding Matthews,NC

Dog Boarding Matthews,NC
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Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and

Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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Dog Boarding Matthews,NC

Dog Boarding Matthews,NC
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DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts,

DIGGING CAN BE DANGEROUS Ruined landscaping, escape attempts, and dirty dogs: Digging can be a very destructive and expensive adventure for your dog to embark upon. First, you need to question why your dog is digging in the first place. Is it bored? We already spoke to the resolution of that issue in the above article. Second, do they dig and lay in the holes? Then your dog may be hot or cold and looking for some relief. Train your dog where to lay his head by finding a more suitable bed that satisfies their warmth or cooling requirements. Third and most tricky, is your dog trying to leave your yard by digging under a fence? To reverse this one, you will need to attach a long line to their collar and watch them. When you catch them in the act of digging, you need to correct them, while saying "NO!", and then replace their behavior with an obedience command. When you find holes, it is important to immediately refill them. Check to be sure that the dog has not buried anything in the hole to prevent them from re-digging the hole to retrieve their items. Do not allow your dog to take food, treats, or rawhides outside because this often can lead to an instinctive burying behavior to protect their leftovers. If the behaviors continue after consistent observing and training on your own, make sure to call us so that the behaviors do not become a solidified habit.
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TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a

TREAT ON NOSE Let's teach your dog a trick that reinforces patience with food! Try the following steps to train the Treat-On-The-Nose trick! Brush up on your sit-stay before you attempt this trick. Your dog has to sit perfectly still to hold the treat! Start with a sit-stay directly in front of you while you sit in a chair. Their head should be slightly over your lap. Put one hand under the dog's head and raise its nose to a position that is level to the floor. Place the treat on the flattest part of their nose. While you gently rest their muzzle in your hand, alternate praise with the phrase "Hold It!" in your command tone. After a few seconds, release him, praise him, and let him flip the treat off his nose and eat it. Repeat this process five to ten times per day for several days. As your dog begins to hold their own head steady, begin to remove your hands from their muzzle to let them do it alone. Some dogs will drop the treat on the floor and pick it up. Others will flip it into the air and catch it. If you desire the flip method and your dog is a "dropper", immediately command them to "leave it" if they drop it. Let them take it if they flip it. With consistency, this will condition the dog to flip it. If they do not catch it on the first flip, praise the effort with "good dog!" so that they do not give up. When they do catch it, praise vigorously!
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Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind

Begging 101 Begging is defined in my mind by any eye contact or starring at the food any closer to the owners or their guest form closer then 6 feet. First and foremost you need to have the owners be sure to stop feeding from the table or their hands when are they are eating or snacking. Some owners may not be feeding the dog from the table but the dog still hopes and give the eyes. I like to use a water bottle for begging. This is great if the dog does not like the water bottle. I like the fact that to correction can be done from the other side of the room and the dog sees you administer the correct from the direction that the begging occurs. 1. Start with the water bottle primed in the sink and tune the stream to a thin stream line. Then while eating at the table the owner has the bottle ready and give the dog a squirt in the forehead for coming and closer to the table then 6 feet and or starring at the plates. 2. If the water bottle does not work then you can use a shake can or put the dog into a down stay or place command. Please add your comments.... Mark Thompson
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Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training,

Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training, we often hear that people simply do not have time to practice with their dogs. While setting aside time to spend one on one with your dog is ideal, and should be pursued whenever possible, we understand that sometimes life can be busy. We are, after all, human. Even though life is busy, your dog still needs repetition and consistency in order to develop the habits that you desire. Often people do not realize that the time spent with your dog, whether set aside or not, is time spent training. Why not integrate your practice into your daily routines so that you can make the most of your time and bond with your dog? There are lots of ways to do it. Here are just a few: SIT and DOWN: Sit and down commands should be practiced whenever you need your dog to stop moving and freeze into position. While challenging your dog to a long stay session during a set-aside practice time is one way to do it, another is having him or her practice her down and/or sit stays while you answer the door, read a magazine, or brush your teeth. Whenever your dog is moving around and you would rather them not be, replace the negative behavior with a positive one. PLACE: Working on Place can be easily accomplished while you watch television or check your email! Start with short place challenges during commercial breaks and then when your dog gets better at it, extend out to actual show segments. Put them on place while you start reading your email, see how many you can get through before your dog tries to get up! While snuggling with your dog during your downtime is often a relaxing time for many owners, this is a way to get in your practice so that when guests come, they can be just as relaxed. Don't forget, if you don't practice, your dog is not going to remember what to do when you need it to. WAITING : Even the simple acts of going through a doorway to take your dog out or feeding them are great opportunities for integrated practice. Have your dog do a sit/stay or a down/stay and wait at doorways. You should always go through first. Have them sit/stay or down/stay while you put down their food. Release them from their stays with a "you're through". This way they understand that you own the food and they are motivated to listen!
christopher epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc

chris epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc
chris epstein charlotte nc

RULES OF THE ROAD If you are planning

RULES OF THE ROAD If you are planning on taking your dog on a road trip with you this summer, here are some things to remember: GET UP TO DATE: Check your dog's vaccinations and tags. Bring copies of your shot records with you. Make sure all relevant information is available on their tags. PREPARE TO PREVENT: Put on a fresh coat of flea and tick preventative, and make sure they've had their heartworm preventative for the month. Bring a veterinary first aid kit with you. These are available at most pet stores. STOCK UP: Make sure you have enough food, medications, and bottled water with you for your dog. Bringing bottled water can sometimes prevent dogs from getting stomach aches due to changes in water content. BUCKLE UP: Get a canine car harness. They help your dog stay in one seat and remain secure during any quick stopping. These are available at pet stores. CHECK OUT BEFORE YOU CHECK IN: There are many pet-friendly hotels for you to stop at along the way. Dogfriendly.com, petswelcome.com, bringfido.com, and doginmysuitcase.com are just a few of the many sites that the many list pet friendly accommodations available. Never leave your dog alone in the hotel room. This will prevent them coming in contact with unknowns and keep them secure. Always put out the do not disturb sign to prevent anyone from accidentally opening the door to a surprise when your dog greets them, or worse letting the dog out into the hotel unleashed. PLAN FOR PIT STOPS: Remember to plan a stop every two to three hours for your dog to go to the bathroom. Always clean up after your dog. Never leave a dog alone in a parked car because heat conditions may rapidly change. Regardless of location, always keep your dog on leash for both your security and theirs.
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BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal

BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal and you have invited over friends. You gather around the table and soak in the sights and smells of the prepared meal and look forward to spending your time together. Then you realize that you are not the only one who appreciates the event. Your dog has arrived and is staring, pawing, and whining in a full theatrical production hoping to be paid in food. Begging is not a reality that most dog owners enjoy, and is appreciated by fewer guests. What if your dog does not beg for food, but instead begs for your attention? Why do dogs beg at all? How do you make them stop? Dogs beg because they are either looking for food, rank, or attention. Dogs who beg for food generally get what they want. To resolve this type of beggar you need to be sure that your dog never receives food during human food times. This means that you can never reward your dog with a treat at the table or during food preparation. Put the scraps off to the side and give it to your dog during its regular feeding times, in their bowl, if you must, but never give it to them during human food events. Never means never. Dogs are persistent and even a 1% chance will be worth pursuing. You will lose ground if anyone feeds the dog during their begging periods. In the dog world, the order in which the animals eat is an indication of their rank within the pack. Therefore, sometimes begging is a challenge for position within the family. The most powerful dogs eat first and the lowest ranking dog eats last. When a dog gets rewarded for begging, they eat at the same time, or before someone else, and therefore move up the leadership ladder. The rightful position of a canine companion is below all of the family members. Make sure that your dog does not eat during or before anyone in the household. Feed the dog in its own bowl, away from the dinner table, after the meal to maintain the proper balance in your family's hierarchy. Dogs who beg for attention exhibit the same whining, crying, and pawing behaviors, but, instead of food, pursue interaction. In order to reverse these behaviors, you need to avoid giving your dog attention during these times. Whenever they begin to act out, ignore them completely. No eye contact, no verbal reactions, no touching. If you respond during their tantrum, the dog will achieve the attention it is desires. Negative attention is still attention. Resume interaction when the dog stops its negative behavior. The dog will realize that it is only positive behavior that receives their desired outcome. Overcome the possible guilt that can come from ignoring the begging by giving your dog some of your quality time when they are doing the right thing, so that they know that they do not need to beg in the first place.
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Clicker Training 101 What is a clicker? A

Clicker Training 101 What is a clicker? A time marker device. That marks a behavior and promises a reward. Any behavior clicked and rewarded enough with increase in frequency. Capturing Behavior - This is were a dog does a behavior induced or on his own and the trainer/owner clicks when the behavior occurs and then rewards the dog with a treat. examples would be barking, scatching, stretching, Shaping Behavior - This is were the trainer take the desired goal and breaks it in to small approamations then clicks and rewards the small appromations and slowly requires the dog to move from step to the next as you gear towards the goal. Example: Teaching adog to toucha target stick with thier nose. First the dog must look at the stick...click and treat then the dog must look and turn his head in the direction fo the stick...click and treat, then the dog must look turn his head and step towards the treat...
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COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to COME, that’s his opportunity to run to the person he loves most. Therefore, the COME command is the most positive lesson your dog can learn. For this reason, we do not give corrections while teaching. Corrections are a part of enforcement, but in the initial stages of training, this command should be entirely positive and fun for your dog. That’s why you should not proceed with the formal COME command training until the dog associates COME with the games on the preceding page. c Put your dog in a SIT/STAY. Move 6-10 feet away, and face the dog. c With the leash in your hand, give the command “ __________, COME!" (command tone) Use your right hand to give him the hand signal: extend your arm straight out, palm facing the ground. Then, bend your arm sharply inward, palm facing the chest. c Holding the leash taut, guide the dog straight toward you, while simultaneously coaxing him with praise. Use pressure on the leash to encourage your dog to move quickly, but DON’T drag him. c As soon as your dog reaches you, give the command, "_________, SIT". As your right hand lifts his chin, simultaneously use your left hand to push his hips into a SIT. Remember to give your dog lots of praise! We recommend lifting his head, and rubbing under his chin while praising. This encourages excellent canine posture! Note: As you teach your dog the COME command, it’s very important that you never use the word “come” without executing the command. If he’s not on a leash, the command cannot be properly enforced. Your trainer will suggest alternate ways to call your dog during this very crucial training period. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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