LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching stand/stay your dog should have a complete understanding of sit/stay. * Begin with your dog in a sit/stay on your left side facing in the same direction you are. * Using your right hand reach across your body grasping the leash about 6” from your dog collar. * Step back and place your left hand (palm toward yourself) on the deep inside of your right thigh. * Then as you give the command “stand” pull forward with your right hand while using your left hand to lift the dogs hind quarter into the air. * Once your dog reaches the standing position give the command to “stay”, then step in front of your dog. * Keep in mind, most dogs will attempt to sit. If this should happen, move quickly, stepping forward with your left leg (putting your hand back inside your thigh), then lightly snap the leash toward you as you lift your dogs hind quarters into the the stand position, and say “NO !!” (correction tone) then say “stand”. (light command tone). * Continue to follow the above steps for seven full days before expecting the dog to stand on his own. * Consult your training instructor for the next steps. TRAINING GOAL:_________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647 Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal

BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal and you have invited over friends. You gather around the table and soak in the sights and smells of the prepared meal and look forward to spending your time together. Then you realize that you are not the only one who appreciates the event. Your dog has arrived and is staring, pawing, and whining in a full theatrical production hoping to be paid in food. Begging is not a reality that most dog owners enjoy, and is appreciated by fewer guests. What if your dog does not beg for food, but instead begs for your attention? Why do dogs beg at all? How do you make them stop? Dogs beg because they are either looking for food, rank, or attention. Dogs who beg for food generally get what they want. To resolve this type of beggar you need to be sure that your dog never receives food during human food times. This means that you can never reward your dog with a treat at the table or during food preparation. Put the scraps off to the side and give it to your dog during its regular feeding times, in their bowl, if you must, but never give it to them during human food events. Never means never. Dogs are persistent and even a 1% chance will be worth pursuing. You will lose ground if anyone feeds the dog during their begging periods. In the dog world, the order in which the animals eat is an indication of their rank within the pack. Therefore, sometimes begging is a challenge for position within the family. The most powerful dogs eat first and the lowest ranking dog eats last. When a dog gets rewarded for begging, they eat at the same time, or before someone else, and therefore move up the leadership ladder. The rightful position of a canine companion is below all of the family members. Make sure that your dog does not eat during or before anyone in the household. Feed the dog in its own bowl, away from the dinner table, after the meal to maintain the proper balance in your family's hierarchy. Dogs who beg for attention exhibit the same whining, crying, and pawing behaviors, but, instead of food, pursue interaction. In order to reverse these behaviors, you need to avoid giving your dog attention during these times. Whenever they begin to act out, ignore them completely. No eye contact, no verbal reactions, no touching. If you respond during their tantrum, the dog will achieve the attention it is desires. Negative attention is still attention. Resume interaction when the dog stops its negative behavior. The dog will realize that it is only positive behavior that receives their desired outcome. Overcome the possible guilt that can come from ignoring the begging by giving your dog some of your quality time when they are doing the right thing, so that they know that they do not need to beg in the first place.
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Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive,

Paws Off the Counter As the holidays arrive, we begin to start preparing special holiday treats. Turkeys, cookies, candies? the list goes on. But what if you are not the only one in the house checking out the plates? Is your dog taking food from your counters, or even right off your plate? This issue is so common that it has a name: "Counter-Surfing". To resolve this issue, you have three choices: punishment, extinction, and alternatives. Punishment is not really a choice in this case. Punish too much and the dog will be scared to go anywhere near food. Punish too little or the wrong way and you will simply teach the dog not to "surf" with you around. Turn away for a second though and all bets are off. Punishment cannot be consistent if you are not around to see the behavior, so this just won't work. While you are frustrated, punishment may just be worth the reward that your dog receives by stealing your tasty food. Extinction is the process by which a behavior disappears due to the removal of its stimulus. In other words: no food, no surfing. Surfing is a behavior that is a conditioned response. Every time the dog steals food, they are rewarded. If you got a dollar every time you touched a doorknob in your home, you would probably touch that doorknob a lot. If that reward was removed, you would most likely eventually reduce the number of times you touched the knob to a more normal level or extinguish that behavior all together. Same with the dog's thievery. You must remove the food reward from the situation by eliminating all unattended food sources. There can be no plates left within reach, no food left on counters, and no crumbs left anywhere. Storage containers, high shelving, and immediate cleaning is required for this process to work. Even dirty dishes can be a source of food reward if left around where a dog can find them. If and when this is not possible, the dog must be removed from the environment where the food is located, in order to prevent accidental reinforcement of stealing behaviors. Alternative therapy is the replacement of a negative behavior with a more positive one. In this case, the PLACE command can be used to have your dog remain in a fixed location that is away from the food. Make sure to practice often, to reward good behavior with verbal praise and petting, and to have a leash on your dog for reinforcement during practice periods. Begin with short durations and then build up to the longer ones. Treat the dog on place so that the dog understands that if he or she remains in "place" the rewards come to them! If they leave, they get nothing at all. Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you. Canine Costume Pet costumes can be entertaining and fun for humans. Some dogs even like them! For other dogs, Halloween costumes are a nightmare. Here are some tips on selecting a costume, getting them to wear it, and alternatives in the event that your dog is truly uncomfortable. Selecting a Costume: Make sure you select the correct size for your dog. If the costume is too large, it will shift and become uncomfortable. Your dog will also be able to wiggle right out of it and walk away. If the size is too small, your dog's motion will be restricted. Be sure that the costume does not rub your dog the wrong way. Friction around the neckline or the front legs are common, regardless of correct sizing. Do not select a costume with small or dangling parts. These can become entanglement and choking hazards that can result in strangulation and injury if the dog attempts to escape or destroy their costume. Consider an alternative costume. These do not have restrictive strapping around the back or torso. Hats, elastic cuffs around the legs, or neckwear may be more acceptable to your pet than a full suit. Playing Dress Up: If your dog is not used to wearing clothing, you must use positive reinforcement. Dress the dog in the costume, then in a positive and/or excited tone offer praise, treats, and physical attention. If you can't even get the costume on the dog, show the dog the costume and do the same routine. Bring it closer and closer to the dog each time. As long as the dog stays relaxed, then you may drape the costume over the dog's back while offering this praise. Once they are ok with putting it over their back, accelerate to putting on portions of the costume, building up to the full costume experience. Practice with dog clothes. Take them for walks with them on. Let them play and relax around the house with it on. Distract the dog with fun activities. If your dog will move, offer him fun and games in their costume. Alternative Holiday Wear: Halloween Doggiedanas. If a collar is tolerable, a bandana may be an acceptable decoration even when a full outfit is not comfortable for your dog. Dog Collars. Many pet and department stores offer collars that themselves have Halloween décor on them. If they wear a collar, simply switch for the holiday version! Resource Halloween Safety Remember that if your dog is uncomfortable, they may be irritable. We suggest not bringing your dog along for a Trick and Treat excursion if they are in discomfort. Be vigilant with children petting your dog when they are in costume. With the excitement of the holiday, children can unintentionally be hurtful, and dogs can be nervous. This is not a good combination. With lots going on, pay lots of attention to your dog's body language, and give them a break whenever necessary. If you cannot be vigilant, make sure that your dog is left at home in a safe environment. Unfortunately, people can be cruel and crazy around this time of year. Please make sure to keep your dog on leash whenever outside the home, and inside whenever possible. Keep all candy out of the reach of your dog. Both the wrappers and their contents may become life threatening to your dog if ingested. If you do not have the time to desensitize your dog to the doorbell, you may need to consider crating your dog during the Trick or Treat hours for both their safety and the safety of those who come to your door.
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COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to

COME COMMAND When you tell your dog to COME, that’s his opportunity to run to the person he loves most. Therefore, the COME command is the most positive lesson your dog can learn. For this reason, we do not give corrections while teaching. Corrections are a part of enforcement, but in the initial stages of training, this command should be entirely positive and fun for your dog. That’s why you should not proceed with the formal COME command training until the dog associates COME with the games on the preceding page. c Put your dog in a SIT/STAY. Move 6-10 feet away, and face the dog. c With the leash in your hand, give the command “ __________, COME!" (command tone) Use your right hand to give him the hand signal: extend your arm straight out, palm facing the ground. Then, bend your arm sharply inward, palm facing the chest. c Holding the leash taut, guide the dog straight toward you, while simultaneously coaxing him with praise. Use pressure on the leash to encourage your dog to move quickly, but DON’T drag him. c As soon as your dog reaches you, give the command, "_________, SIT". As your right hand lifts his chin, simultaneously use your left hand to push his hips into a SIT. Remember to give your dog lots of praise! We recommend lifting his head, and rubbing under his chin while praising. This encourages excellent canine posture! Note: As you teach your dog the COME command, it’s very important that you never use the word “come” without executing the command. If he’s not on a leash, the command cannot be properly enforced. Your trainer will suggest alternate ways to call your dog during this very crucial training period. TRAINING GOAL:__________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health

Proper Nutrition from All is Well Pet Health - Side Affects of Improper Nutrition Dog Training Nutrition is the foundation for optimal health for pets as well as people. Pet food should be wholesome and nourishing. In order to be sure your pet is getting the proper nutrition, read the labels and check the ingredients. It is also very important to chose a pet food that uses high quality, "human grade" ingredients. This assures that the ingredients on the label are what is truly in the food. Dog food companies such as Wellness, Natura (makers of California Natural, Evo, Innova), and Nature's Variety all use these type ingredients as well as do continuous quality control during manufacturing. Some of the maladies that can result from improper nutrition are itchy red skin, dandruff, oily coat, runny eyes, chewing on paws, and red, sore ears. Imagine eating the same diet day after day for your entire life ... not very appetizing is it? Now, imagine that same diet lacking the vitamins and minerals needed for strong healthy bodies. Since we need good nutrition to stay healthy, it would not take long to become weak and sickly. As unhealthy as this sounds, this is what most of our pets experience their entire lives. As a result they are getting sicker and sicker. Substandard Ingredients in Commercial Dog Food Keep in mind that any ingredients that are not considered "human grade" are not subject to any FDA or other screening. Pet food has no federal inspection of ingredients. This means the ingredient list on most commercial dog foods is not truly accurate. Meat by-products: The "by-products" from the meat, but not including meat: lungs, spleen, kidneys, brains, liver, blood, bone, intestines, none of which are fit for human consumption. Meat meal: Meat meal can consist of just about any conceivable meat source. Even destroyed dogs and cats are rendered into meat meal for several name-brand animal foods. Beet Pulp: Beet pulp is the dried residue from the sugar beet. It is a source of sugar and fiber. However, it can seriously bind a dog's digestive tract. BHT, BHA: Chemical preservatives such as BHT and BHA have caused many concerns when tested on laboratory animals. Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative used to prevent spoilage in dog foods. It is a 1950's Monsanto product manufactured and sold as a chemical for making rubber! It is listed as a pesticide by the U.S. Department of agriculture. Unnecessary additions to dog food or treats: Corn: Corn, used as a cheap filler and protein source. Corn can cause common allergies such as skin disorders, increased chewing on paws or ear infections. Corn gluten meal: Corn gluten meal is by by-product after the manufacture of corn syrup or starch. Wheat or Wheat Gluten: Used as a cheap filler and protein source. Also a high allergen for skin disorders, and ear infections.
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5 New Years Resolutions for your Dog 1.

5 New Years Resolutions for your Dog 1. Walk Your Dog - Making a goal to walk your dog everyday will help you and your pet get into better shape. By using a control walk, you will be reinforcing your dog's place in the family. 2. Obedience Training - You know what to do, but are you being consistent? Resolve to spend 5-10 minutes every other day brushing up on your dog's obedience skills. While you are at it, come to a few tune-up classes and really flex your alpha muscles. 3. Annual Exam - Just like people, dogs need to have an annual check-up to make sure that everything is working properly and that there is nothing going on beneath the surface. Since symptoms can go unnoticed, a visit to your veterinarian's office might be the key to catching something early. If your pet has not seen a veterinarian in the last year consider making an appointment for its physical exam. 4. Socialization - If your dog isn't given the opportunity to be around other dogs, then problems can arise. You might notice barking when you are out for a walk when they see another dog. This can escalate into something more, so it's always a good idea to allow your dog to socialize with other pets as much as possible. 5. Helping a Rescue Organization- What a great New Years Resolution! Rescue organizations are always in need of volunteers, food and blankets, or monetary contributions. You can celebrate your dog by giving to an animal welfare organization.
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INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild

INTRODUCTION TO HOUSEBREAKING Dogs are descendants of wild wolves, and although they are now domesticated, dogs and wolves still share many basic instincts. As young pups, both wild and domestic dogs are instinctively clean. Even in the wild, wolves are very reluctant to relieve themselves in or near their den. THE DEN: Wild and domestic dogs will typically establish a den. A den is a small area, normally with one opening, in which they feel safe and secure. Dogs spend lots of time in their dens: they will eat, sleep, play and whelp their puppies in there. Thus, a healthy dog will not relieve himself in his den. SCHEDULE: Your training instructor will custom design a feeding schedule for your dog. This will help you coordinate your dogs need to relieve himself with your schedule. To succeed in housebreaking your dog, it is critical that you adhere to your schedule. RELIEF STATION: You must establish a “relief station” that your dog can easily recognize. For example, you can create a 20x20 area marked by pine cones. Or if you have a natural area you’d like the dog to use, you may designate that his relief station. CORRECTION: Dogs will only learn from your correction if you catch them “red- handed”. If you don’t catch them in the act, you’re wasting your time correcting them. WATCH OR CONFINEMENT WATCH: Since after-the-fact corrections are not effective, it is sometimes necessary to watch your dog at all times. WATCH makes this practical. Your dog will be on his leash and by your side . This allows you to move about the house, catching your dog in the act of relieving himself. You will then be able to correct him -- effectively -- on the spot. Another benefit of the WATCH mode is that in forcing your dog to constantly follow your movements, you are asserting your leadership and ensuring his loyalty. CONFINEMENT: Achieves two goals: first, it establishes a den for your dog. Second, it forces your dog to rely on his instinctive desire NOT to soil his den. If your dog relieves himself in the den, he’ll quickly find this distasteful. He will learn to wait until being released from confinement to take care of his business. If, however, you do find that your dog has relieved himself in his den, leave him with the mess for 15 minutes. You want this behavior to have negative consequences for your dog. WATCH/CONFINEMENT procedures will be effective only if your housebreaking schedule is followed! PLEASE remember: it is very important to fill out your housebreaking logs completely.
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