Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training,

Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training, we often hear that people simply do not have time to practice with their dogs. While setting aside time to spend one on one with your dog is ideal, and should be pursued whenever possible, we understand that sometimes life can be busy. We are, after all, human. Even though life is busy, your dog still needs repetition and consistency in order to develop the habits that you desire. Often people do not realize that the time spent with your dog, whether set aside or not, is time spent training. Why not integrate your practice into your daily routines so that you can make the most of your time and bond with your dog? There are lots of ways to do it. Here are just a few: SIT and DOWN: Sit and down commands should be practiced whenever you need your dog to stop moving and freeze into position. While challenging your dog to a long stay session during a set-aside practice time is one way to do it, another is having him or her practice her down and/or sit stays while you answer the door, read a magazine, or brush your teeth. Whenever your dog is moving around and you would rather them not be, replace the negative behavior with a positive one. PLACE: Working on Place can be easily accomplished while you watch television or check your email! Start with short place challenges during commercial breaks and then when your dog gets better at it, extend out to actual show segments. Put them on place while you start reading your email, see how many you can get through before your dog tries to get up! While snuggling with your dog during your downtime is often a relaxing time for many owners, this is a way to get in your practice so that when guests come, they can be just as relaxed. Don't forget, if you don't practice, your dog is not going to remember what to do when you need it to. WAITING : Even the simple acts of going through a doorway to take your dog out or feeding them are great opportunities for integrated practice. Have your dog do a sit/stay or a down/stay and wait at doorways. You should always go through first. Have them sit/stay or down/stay while you put down their food. Release them from their stays with a "you're through". This way they understand that you own the food and they are motivated to listen!
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HEEL COMMAND c Begin with your dog in

HEEL COMMAND c Begin with your dog in a SIT/STAY on your left side, both of you facing forward. Step forward with your left foot, as you say “_________, HEEL.” (command tone) Patting your left hip while praising will encourage your dog to remain at your side. c Continue walking at a moderate pace. As your dog moves out of the HEEL position, use a quick SNAP AND RELEASE in the opposite direction, as you say “NO!” (correction tone) Repeat the HEEL command (command tone) as you encourage your dog with praise. c Make it a challenge for your dog to stay by your side by changing directions rapidly without warning, and by changing your speed from very slow to a brisk walk. c When practicing the HEEL command, always begin and end with your dog in a SIT/STAY position at your left side. . c The HEEL command is one of the most difficult for your dog to master. For this reason, it is crucial that you practice every day. However, limit your practice sessions to 2 minute spurts for the first week, gradually increasing the time to 8-10 minutes. Here’s a tip for practice: try point-to-point heeling. Pick an object, like a mailbox or fire hydrant. Walk your dog in HEEL directly toward that object. Then turn about-face, and repeat the procedure with a different object. This will help you teach him to move forward in a straight line, without veering or pulling. As always, remember to praise your dog -- and make it fun! TRAINING GOAL:________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ c Remember: If you have any questions, please call our office Monday-Friday, 8:30 am -5:00 pm c (704) 573-3647
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Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption

Coprophagia - Eating B/Ms Coprophagia eating B/Ms, consumption of feces, is common but disturbing habit in some dogs. The cause is unknown, but there are ways to deal with this behavior. Coprophagia is normal behavior under some circumstances. The bitch will normally eat the puppies feces and urine during their first few weeks of life. This keeps the den or whelping box clean. Some of the most common "treatments" for comprophagia are: sprinkling MSG on the dog's food 's putting pineapple or tomato juice or spinich in the dog's food crushing a Cert's breath mint and putting it in the food changing the dog's diet to a higher quality, more digestible food There are also some commercial products on the market Forbid Deter Both of these products have fermented vegetable extract as their main ingredient. This is for all intents and purposes the same as MSG. All the information that I have about effectiveness of any of these is anecdotal and through my own experience. I have found that MSG or a commercial product works best. Some dog owners are more comfortable using a commercial product even though the cost is much greater than plain MSG. Trial and error is the way that I have figured out how much MSG to put in the food. I have them start out with a teaspoonful and increase the amount until it has the desired effect of making the smell and taste of the feces undesirable. Ken Landa From juliejohnson - 12/4/07 9:17 AM We have also used canned pumpkin as an additive to the food - again, starting out with a teaspoon like Ken said (or even smaller if it is a small dog!). Something to be careful of with pumpkin is it can lead to diarrhea. Also, we've used Accent Spice, which I think is a commercial name for MSG if they are looking for it in the grocery store. Sometimes we have also told the clients who have cats to add these to the cat's food so the dog will stay out of the litterbox. Of course, we tell them to make sure to clear it with their vets first, especially if we know the animals have had prior digestive problems. Julie Johnson
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FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of

FOURTH OF JULY Fireworks are a fact of the holiday and very few other days of the year. They are big, beautiful, exciting, and loud. Remember, for your dog who has hearing ten times more sensitive than we do, the loud part can catch your dog unaware, disorient them, and create anxiety. In fact, often times fight or flight instincts kick in and dogs shelters will be inundated with dogs on the days following fireworks displays. While some dogs have little or no reaction, for others, fireworks can cause serious disturbances that can be emotionally scarring for them. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which one any individual dog is or how any event may affect your dog. Here are some guidelines to consider prior to the festivities: Bringing Your Dog With You May we suggest you reconsider bringing your dog with you on your fourth adventures? These displays are not made for dogs. Often the aerial display is accompanied by sparklers and amateur displays which are lower and less predictable. Flashes of light, loud explosions, and crowds make for a confused and anxious dog with nowhere to go. Further, do not leave your dog in your car while you enjoy the show. This only reduces the "trapped" feeling to the confines of your vehicle which can result in destruction, soiling, and injury from exertion of anxious energies. Remember, a scared dog in a crowd is a danger to both itself and the people around it. Leashes and collars are not infallible. Leaving Your Dog Behind If you leave your dog at home and fireworks are being displayed nearby, make sure that they are in a place that is indoors where they have the least likelihood of causing damage to your home or themselves. Crates are strongly recommended if your dog has crating experience. Turn on, and up, your radio or television to mask the sound of the fireworks. Close your blinds or curtains to mask the flashing lights. Take away your dog's favorite toy a day or two before the festivities, and return it in time for the event. This way, they can be distracted by something you know that will give them happiness. In Either case Regardless of your canine's location, some basic steps should be taken to ensure their safety. Make sure that their tags are up to date, including one with your contact information, in the event that their fight or flight instinct gives them wings. To be doubly sure, make sure your dog is micro chipped and that that information is also correct in the event of a collar failure. Let your dog do its business prior to time for the fireworks displays. Play with them more than usual to ensure that they are tired and therefore less likely to have the energy to expend with nervousness. If your dog does react negatively to the fireworks, remember not to coddle them. If you coddle or hold them during this time, it will feel exactly the same as when you praise them. In other words, you'll be telling them: "Good job being nervous! That's what you should be doing! Keep it up!". In contrast, light massage style petting, if your dog will let you, when practiced without pity or nervousness can help calm both of you.
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Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training,

Integrating Practice into Everyday Life In our training, we often hear that people simply do not have time to practice with their dogs. While setting aside time to spend one on one with your dog is ideal, and should be pursued whenever possible, we understand that sometimes life can be busy. We are, after all, human. Even though life is busy, your dog still needs repetition and consistency in order to develop the habits that you desire. Often people do not realize that the time spent with your dog, whether set aside or not, is time spent training. Why not integrate your practice into your daily routines so that you can make the most of your time and bond with your dog? There are lots of ways to do it. Here are just a few: SIT and DOWN: Sit and down commands should be practiced whenever you need your dog to stop moving and freeze into position. While challenging your dog to a long stay session during a set-aside practice time is one way to do it, another is having him or her practice her down and/or sit stays while you answer the door, read a magazine, or brush your teeth. Whenever your dog is moving around and you would rather them not be, replace the negative behavior with a positive one. PLACE: Working on Place can be easily accomplished while you watch television or check your email! Start with short place challenges during commercial breaks and then when your dog gets better at it, extend out to actual show segments. Put them on place while you start reading your email, see how many you can get through before your dog tries to get up! While snuggling with your dog during your downtime is often a relaxing time for many owners, this is a way to get in your practice so that when guests come, they can be just as relaxed. Don't forget, if you don't practice, your dog is not going to remember what to do when you need it to. WAITING : Even the simple acts of going through a doorway to take your dog out or feeding them are great opportunities for integrated practice. Have your dog do a sit/stay or a down/stay and wait at doorways. You should always go through first. Have them sit/stay or down/stay while you put down their food. Release them from their stays with a "you're through". This way they understand that you own the food and they are motivated to listen!
Political dog tale duel
In the RidicuList, Anderson Cooper examines which candidate's dog tale will have a greater election impact.

Charleston Dog Training

Allison Allen
Dog Training In Your Home

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching

LESSON NOTES STAND/STAY COMMAND ** NOTE: Before teaching stand/stay your dog should have a complete understanding of sit/stay. * Begin with your dog in a sit/stay on your left side facing in the same direction you are. * Using your right hand reach across your body grasping the leash about 6” from your dog collar. * Step back and place your left hand (palm toward yourself) on the deep inside of your right thigh. * Then as you give the command “stand” pull forward with your right hand while using your left hand to lift the dogs hind quarter into the air. * Once your dog reaches the standing position give the command to “stay”, then step in front of your dog. * Keep in mind, most dogs will attempt to sit. If this should happen, move quickly, stepping forward with your left leg (putting your hand back inside your thigh), then lightly snap the leash toward you as you lift your dogs hind quarters into the the stand position, and say “NO !!” (correction tone) then say “stand”. (light command tone). * Continue to follow the above steps for seven full days before expecting the dog to stand on his own. * Consult your training instructor for the next steps. TRAINING GOAL:_________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________ *Remember, if you have any questions, please call our office at (704) 573-3647 Monday - Friday, 8:30am - 5:00pm
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DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste

DOODYCALLS o Waste not, want not: Pet Waste o In the dog eat dog world of real estate, an area is only as good as its property values. And for areas overrun by smelly piles of dog poop, the feces factor could prove the weakest link to many homeowners. o The American Pet Products Manufacturers Association (APPMA), estimates Americans own more pets than ever before, with 74.8 million dogs as of 2008. o Beyond your grass, it has been estimated that a single gram of dog feces can contain 23 million fecal coliform bacteria, which are known to cause cramps, diarrhea, intestinal illness, and serious kidney disorders in humans. EPA even estimates that two or three days worth of droppings from a population of about 100 dogs would contribute enough bacteria to temporarily close a bay, and all watershed areas within 20 miles of it, to swimming and shellfishing. o The EPA explains that the decay of your pet's waste actually creates nutrients for weeds and algae that grow in the waterways. As these organisms thrive on your dog's droppings, they overtake the water and limit the amount of light that can penetrate the water's surface. As a result, oxygen levels in the water decrease, and the fish and seafood we eat can be asphyxiated, EPA says. o A toxic cycle o If you aren't worried about your local waterways, you may be a bit more concerned about the impact of dog droppings on your home. The thing about persistently disposing of stools improperly (or not at all) is that it kicks off a harmful cycle that can affect your whole family - including your pet. o According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), pet droppings can contribute to diseases animals pass to humans, called zoonoses. When infected dog droppings are deposited on your lawn, the eggs of certain roundworms and other parasites can linger in your soil for years. Anyone who comes into contact with that soil - be it through gardening, playing sports, walking barefoot or any other means - runs the risk of coming into contact with those eggs; especially your dog. o Some of the hard-to-pronounce parasites your lawn could harbor include Cryptosporidium, Giardia, Salmonella, as well as hookworms, ringworms and tapeworms. Infections from these bugs often cause fever, muscle aches, headache, vomiting, and diarrhea in humans. Children are most susceptible, since they often play in the dirt and put things in their mouths or eyes. o In the end, it is best not to let sleeping dogs lie when it comes to issues of communal cleanliness. After all, proper sanitation could mean the difference between your yard being a beautiful oasis, or an area that has gone to the dogs. o Author: Dave Mason is the franchise owner of DoodyCalls, Charleston's Premier Pet Waste Removal Service
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