Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Monday, January 30, 2012
Walking Your Dog in 2009 If you are
Walking Your Dog in 2009 If you are going to walk your dog, why not do it in a beautiful place? Why not change your routine and try different routes? Remember, it's not only you that will be bored if the walk is always the same! Check out the locations below to upgrade your walks in 2009! Trail Walking: The Lowcountry has many walking trails available to you and your dog. Charleston County Park and Recreation Commission offers you several options where trails through the woods are well marked, and welcome to the canine members of our community. Many of these trails are even paved! Your dog will enjoy the experience of the new smells and sounds, the new animals, and new sites just as much as you! Would you like an added challenge? Stop every so often and have your dog do an autosit. See how long you can sit still and just enjoy your moment. When the trail is wide, let your dog have some extra leash and go with a control walk. Where they narrow, call them in for a heel! By the end, you'll both be more relaxed and ready to go home for a quiet evening. Beach Walking: Many of our beaches allow dogs to be walked on leash. Some of them even have off leash hours! Why not take your dog to enjoy the coastline with you? Work on your control walk in the dunes to allow your dog to enjoy the feel of the loose sand between their toes. Work on heel in the packed sand. How close were you really keeping your dog? Turn around. Your footprints will tell you. Try to keep your dog within the width of a hand. Each time you try, remember to praise your dog when they do a good job! City Walking: Why not take your dog on a walk in the city? Each of the local towns and cities offer their own charm. You can explore their downtown areas with your four-legged friend. Try working on your autosit at street corners, and down stays while pausing on park benches. Downtown Charleston itself offers Battery Park with its views of both Rainbow Row and the harbor! Waterfront Park offers a seaside pier with swings to sit on to rest. Hampton Park has beautiful gazebos, shaded areas, and the paddock for the city police. Many local restaurants offer canine friendly eating, and many neighborhood parks offer proper canine clean up materials! If you would like to try something new, why not let your dog carry your water bottle, a ball, and other necessary goodies in a canine backpack? This adds to the physical and mental challenge to your dog while freeing your hands for easier leash work!
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your
Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your
Doorbell Desensitization Ding, Dong! Are you and your dog ready for the trickiness of Trick or Treating this year? If your dog barks and runs at the door every time the doorbell rings, then this article on noise desensitization is for you. First, what is the barking all about? Doorbells signal change, and the introduction of an outsider to your environment. Barking can be a sign of excitement or anxiety related to these events. They may be guarding your home, or they may be welcoming your guests. In either case, you need to help your dog to relax. To do this you will need a clicker. If you do not have one, they are available at the register at most pet stores or through your trainer. If you have not used one of these during your training, a clicker is a small device with a button that you press to make a consistent noise. This noise will signify when your dog does something correctly. Prior to training, you must charge the clicker, or give it significance to your canine, by clicking the clicker and giving your dog a small, favorite, tasty treat several times in a row without training. Click! Treat. Click! Treat. You will notice that soon your dog will look your way as soon as you click because they understand that a treat is on its way. Second, you will need to create situations that simulate the doorbell environment that you want to change. You will need to have set-up doorbell ringing situations where you are prepared to train your dog. If guests and family members call ahead and are willing to ring the bell for you when they arrive, this is an easy way to naturally create this environment. Otherwise, you will need to employ volunteers to ring the doorbell for you. Have the person ring the bell, then click and treat the dog BEFORE it barks. Have the person repeat their ring several times at 30-60 second intervals. Each time, the dog gets rewarded for being attentive but not barking. Do not open the door every time. This will signal to the dog that just because the door is ringing, there is not necessarily someone waiting to come into their territory. Make sure to have your dog on a leash so that they cannot run to the door. Instead, guide them to come to you when the ring sounds for their click and reward. As your dog clues in to your training and becomes more relaxed at the bell, introduce verbal praise and wait longer and longer after the bell to click and reward the dog. Eventually, the doorbell will signal the need for calm energy to receive their reward, rather than a time to become excited and charge the door. Thirdly, now that you understand the basic premise, here is the doorbell workup routine to prepare yourself for the big day provided by watchandtrain.com: Have your dog on-leash. The time that your dog spends running towards the door barking can feed into his behavior and cause it to continue. Warm him up initially at the beginning of sessions, then do "cold trials". Warm up - one ring, one treat with your dog right near the door, maybe even having him see you press the bell. You can say "Ready?" to give him even more of a hint that you are about to start "the game". Harder - you are farther away from the front door. Even harder - farther still where you try for two or three rings between treats. Say "Good Boy" after each bell and only click and treat (C/T) after the second or third ring. Ready for an even larger challenge? Train your dog to go to another room when the doorbell rings by having your click and treat supplies in another room. When the bell rings, call them to you. Guide them with the leash to your location, if necessary. When they arrive, award them with a click and treat. This will defuse the door-rushing behavior that can sometimes add excitement to the doorbell situation. During these exercises, if your dog shows signs of anxiety (heavy panting, pacing, shaking, etc) or does not seem to be progressing, then you are moving too quickly. Remember, the idea is to reduce stress on your dog. You will need to do many repetitions of each step to fully desensitize your dog. If you would like a one-on-one demonstration of these exercises, please give us a call. We will be happy to help you.
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal
BANISHING BEGGING You have made a wonderful meal and you have invited over friends. You gather around the table and soak in the sights and smells of the prepared meal and look forward to spending your time together. Then you realize that you are not the only one who appreciates the event. Your dog has arrived and is staring, pawing, and whining in a full theatrical production hoping to be paid in food. Begging is not a reality that most dog owners enjoy, and is appreciated by fewer guests. What if your dog does not beg for food, but instead begs for your attention? Why do dogs beg at all? How do you make them stop? Dogs beg because they are either looking for food, rank, or attention. Dogs who beg for food generally get what they want. To resolve this type of beggar you need to be sure that your dog never receives food during human food times. This means that you can never reward your dog with a treat at the table or during food preparation. Put the scraps off to the side and give it to your dog during its regular feeding times, in their bowl, if you must, but never give it to them during human food events. Never means never. Dogs are persistent and even a 1% chance will be worth pursuing. You will lose ground if anyone feeds the dog during their begging periods. In the dog world, the order in which the animals eat is an indication of their rank within the pack. Therefore, sometimes begging is a challenge for position within the family. The most powerful dogs eat first and the lowest ranking dog eats last. When a dog gets rewarded for begging, they eat at the same time, or before someone else, and therefore move up the leadership ladder. The rightful position of a canine companion is below all of the family members. Make sure that your dog does not eat during or before anyone in the household. Feed the dog in its own bowl, away from the dinner table, after the meal to maintain the proper balance in your family's hierarchy. Dogs who beg for attention exhibit the same whining, crying, and pawing behaviors, but, instead of food, pursue interaction. In order to reverse these behaviors, you need to avoid giving your dog attention during these times. Whenever they begin to act out, ignore them completely. No eye contact, no verbal reactions, no touching. If you respond during their tantrum, the dog will achieve the attention it is desires. Negative attention is still attention. Resume interaction when the dog stops its negative behavior. The dog will realize that it is only positive behavior that receives their desired outcome. Overcome the possible guilt that can come from ignoring the begging by giving your dog some of your quality time when they are doing the right thing, so that they know that they do not need to beg in the first place.
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Flying a Service Dog There are a few
Flying a Service Dog There are a few things you should know about flying a service dog or service dog in training. 1. WHAT TO TAKE: -Take all appropriate paperwork with you to the airport. This inculdes a copy of all current vacinations including Rabies, and a travel certificate from the dog's vet within 10 days of travel showing dog is healthy. I have never been questioned for or asked about these when flying a service dog, but you need them just in case they ask. -a small "placemat" for the dog to lie on on the floor for comfort and control :-). -poopy bags, paper towels or handi wipes for any accidents, a collapsible water bowl, dogfood, service dog vest, leash, 2. FEES? The airline is not supposed to charge you a pet fee or any other special fee for having the dog with you on the flight. 3. WHERE TO SIT ON THE PLANE Your service dog must sit under your feet on the plane so always ask for a window seat so the dog has more room and is not in the aisle, and try to get a bulk head seat right behind first class where there is additional room for your feet and the dog. TAKE A DIRECT FLIGHT WHEN EVER POSSIBLE. 4. AT THE AIRPORT It is good to walk the dog at the airport and have them potty before checking in, and then again after you check your bags/get your ticket because after you go thru security you will not have access to the outside of the airport unless you go out and then back thru security. If your airport is large, find the elevators and use them to change floors. They dont usually have stairs and I dont like taking the dogs on the escalators. Too much can go wrong with the dog being scared or getting hair snagged. When you arrive at your destination, go directly to the outside and let the dog use the bathroom, then go to baggage claim. The dog will need to pee due to the pressue changes in the plane and somestimes the stress of the flight/or relaxation off the nap they took while flying. 5. SECURITY It is easiest to go thru the special assitance line of security (handicap/gold card member line) if they will let you. This line is much shorter less stressful on the dog. Some metal detector screeners will let you leave on the leash/collar/vest and some will want the dog naked to go thru. I usually put the dog in a down stay, walk though the metal detector and wait for the screener to say it is ok for the dog to come thru. Then call the dog to me. 6. ATTIRE I normally wear my DTIYH shirt and then there are no questions about what my disability is. Of course I have none, but the service dogs in training have the same rights as service dogs. You will get lots of questions by fellow passengers about the dog who dont know you dont have to give them that information In my experience, the more evasive you are the more shady you seem with the dog there. I always say the dog is in training for ......... service. I have nvere had anyone complain about the dogs when they fly (I have flown 2 different dogs). Laura Moretz
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote
Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar Deaf Dog Remote Vibrating Collar - I have used a remote collar that vibrates when you press the transmit button on the remote. I have used the vibration as the dogs name and or as the marking of a behavior. However there are some problems with using these collars. Some dogs are very scared of the collar. They have never felt something like it before. So I like to hold the remote collar in my hand and lightly hold the collar against the dog and activate the collar when the dog feels the vibration give the dog a treat. After doing this until the dog starts to expect the treat ..then and only then put the collar on the dog. Then start to use the collar then treat...collar then treat...collar then treat. Then start using the collar to mark behavior I like to start with the look command. When the dog looks at your face remote and treat. The remote I like is the 175ncp dogtra collar http://betterdog.com/Products/dogtra.htm Are about 175.00 and work well...
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
Charlotte Dog Training |
Charlotte Dog Daycare |
Monroe Dog Groomer|
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